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Does anyone have a HOW TO on the engine removal of the LS1 in a C5. The article I found on Super Chevy the pictures are missing. I know a lot of guys do every now and then a complete article step by step like the one I am in need of. Thank you so much in advance
Does anyone have a HOW TO on the engine removal of the LS1 in a C5. The article I found on Super Chevy the pictures are missing. I know a lot of guys do every now and then a complete article step by step like the one I am in need of. Thank you so much in advance
Shannon
I don't have a how-to, even though I have done it twice. Once was with the hood off, and once with my 2 post lift, picking the body up off the drivetrain. If I do it a 3rd time, it will be from the top with the hood off. I prefer this to the body lift. Probably a subjective opinion. I don't know if you have a 6 speed manual, or an A4. I have the A4. If you have the A4, there is a 'pinch coupler' that tightens against the output splines from the motor to the input splines of torque tube. Don't forget to loosen/remove it, because if you don't, you won't be able to slide the motor forward.......
I have done it with a 6 speed from the top. We disconnect the torque tube from the bellhousing. The cradle must be lowered. A transmission or motorcycle jack really helps with that.
I have done it with a 6 speed from the top. We disconnect the torque tube from the bellhousing. The cradle must be lowered. A transmission or motorcycle jack really helps with that.
I’ve just had mine out and in twice in the last six months. The shop doing the work did it both ways; through the top with hood on and heads off and as a complete long block through the bottom by dropping the cradle. Their preference was the bottom.
As posted above both methods work, just depends on what tools you have access to.
We disconnect the upper control arms from the frame, and the shocks at the lower control arms. We had rather do that than ball joints, A friend and I have done it 4 times. The last time we had a lift with restricted headroom, and had the motor free using the lift but we had to use a hoist to get it out of the engine bay. Go slow check wires, and clearance.
I did the same. The only tip I'll offer is that I had an easier time coming at it with the hoist from the side and not having to remove the nose. Though I did pull the fender purely as a safety precaution for the paint since I was doing it in a one car garage without much space.
You can remove - install it from the top with hood bumper removed , lower the cradle as the batwing pan will hit it and the engine will be impossible to get out from the tube otherwise.
Do not use power tools on the cradle bolts !
You can remove - install it from the top with hood bumper removed , lower the cradle as the batwing pan will hit it and the engine will be impossible to get out from the tube otherwise.
Do not use power tools on the cradle bolts !
I prefer removing from the top, as well. I have a 2 post lift, so I've done it both ways. The reason I prefer doing it from above is there's alot less crap that needs to be disconnected. If you forget 1 thing while the body is going up, something is gonna get broken. Out the top can also save the cost of a 4 wheel alignment......
I don't have a how-to, even though I have done it twice. Once was with the hood off, and once with my 2 post lift, picking the body up off the drivetrain. If I do it a 3rd time, it will be from the top with the hood off. I prefer this to the body lift. Probably a subjective opinion. I don't know if you have a 6 speed manual, or an A4. I have the A4. If you have the A4, there is a 'pinch coupler' that tightens against the output splines from the motor to the input splines of torque tube. Don't forget to loosen/remove it, because if you don't, you won't be able to slide the motor forward.......
thank you so much for your input , I came looking over here after completely stripping down my engine bay and you just gave me the solution