I just got a 2004 Z06 Z16, I'd like to make it a little more racey.
I don't want to mess with power at all at the moment, really just suspension optimization.
I'm thinking -2 or -2.5 ish degrees of camber front and rear.
I have been looking at a lot of different Delrin bushing kits. and also the unique front kit from Global West
https://www.globalwest.net/corvette-...placement.html.

Trying to decide on either:
Global West, Borg Motorsports, VanSteel,
here is what I'm asking, (please don't cloud this thread with other ideas).
1) Do you have any experience with the Global West kit?
2) What makes the VanSteel or Borg kits better than the others?
This car will mainly be a fun track day, autocross, and ride to get ice cream car.
Thank you

 

Borg has some solid reviews from several racers. You will likely get more responses and more detail in the autocross and road racing section.

 

You won’t be able to dial in that much camber. Usually about -1.8 is about all you will get with OEM spindles on a C5. Changing to aftermarket is a slippery slope, and you have to know what the changes will do, and how caster affects handling. Once you can dial in a lot more camber, you will affect caster (front-only, there is only one camber adjustment in the rear, so you cab’t optimize rear caster in a C5). Delrin bushings don’t need to be the first mod. I would suggest you go through the brakes very thoroughly, possibly even replacing the seals in the calipers. Then good brake pads. Of course a good DOT 4 brake fluid. Then, along with brakes is a good set of appropriate tires. The all season tires will get greasy halfway through a session, so a good set of dedicated track tires/wheels probably should come way before suspension bushings. You will want to put better seats in the car fairly early in your ownership. The OEM seats will allow you to slide around a lot. On your first track day, get a roll of the foam perforated tool drawer liner and cover the seat bottom. This will slow down the booty sliding in the seat for the time being. Then you can make a post here and get 2000 opinions about the best seats

After that, a remote clutch bleeder should be on your short list. A weekend at the track, all expenses honestly added up is $1k+. Nothing will ruin your weekend like a clutch pedal sticking to the floor the first session first day.

Get to know your car. Seat time is your best investment. When you find you are hitting the car’s limits, you can then make wise mod choices. That takes seat time. I can just about guarantee you won’t find that limit for some time. Please do not take this as an insult to your driving ability. You have an awesome track day car just as it is.

 

I always have a spare set of brake rotors. The stock brake setup will chew them up once you get going fast.

 

Some items to consider, alignment: Since my car is mainly autocross/HPDE I run 2.2 neg camber front, 0 toe and max my caster to the lowest side (6.5 deg), in the rear I can only get -1.1 camber on the left side and match the right side and 3/16 total toe. For other items, Borg bushings/ camber plates/adjustable shocks or at minimum 04Z shocks or DRM Bilstein shocks.

 

Depending on ride height you may have trouble getting that much camber out of the rear. Our camber kit gets you a little bit more than factory. I personally run -3.3 front and -2.5 rear with our kit, but again depending on setup YMMV. Here's a link to the camber kit.

AMT Motorsport Camber Kit
Corvette Forum members can save 5% with discount code 'cfracing' at checkout.

Lemme know if you have any questions!

 

Mark is da man! His camber kit is top notch..... (literally) haha!!! I'm currently installing his upper control arm stud kit as I type this.... well letting the locktite set up...

 

You can get a bit more than that. I got -2.8 or so on my stock suspension by removing all the washers on the upper control arm and running the eccentric bushings all the way out on the lower control arm. Other than that, I agree.

The car is VERY track capable as-is, after all that's what it was designed for. With that said, it's a 20 year old car, so I'd strongly suggest checking all bushings, seals, etc. If they're in good shape there's no need to replace them. Once everything is verified to be in good working order I would do the following (in this order)

1. Add the extra quart of oil that GM recommends for track use. This is EXTREMELY important, as oil starvation at high lateral G will quickly destroy the engine.
2. Replace the brake fluid with racing brake fluid. Castrol SRF is by FAR the best you can get, but it is very expensive. Motul 660 is a much more affordable option and is still quite capable.
3. Replace the clutch fluid with the same fluid you chose for the brakes, for the same reason.
4, Replace the brake pads with track pads. They will be noisy and dusty, especially when cold, but will be far less likely to fade at the high temps they will see at the track.
THE ABOVE STEPS ARE CRITICAL AND SHOULD BE ACCOMPLISHED BEFORE GOING TO THE TRACK! The following steps are optional, but good ideas, especially if track use will be a regular thing for you.
5. Invest in safety equipment. Just because you're not required to wear a full face helmet, HANS, or fire suit doesn't mean it's not a good idea. The wall doesn't care if you're competing or not when you hit it at 120mph. If you're not going to put a 5pt harness in the car there are HANS options that are stand-alone and can be used with factory belts.
6. Put quality tires on it. I wouldn't recommend slicks, since most HPDE events require you to use street tires. A good set of autocross type tires will be a great addition.
7. If it hasn't been done recently, flush and replace the transmission and differential fluid. Factory spec fluid is fine to replace it with, but even if the car is low miles
8. Replace the seats (at least the driver seat) with better seats. Stock seats are terrible, even in good condition, and they're notorious for breaking. You'll be amazed how much more in control you feel with quality seats.

After that just drive the car. You'll feel where the car is lacking and that will guide your further modification. ALWAYS invest in stopping before you invest in going. That means the first place you should look to upgrade should be the brakes before you look at adding power.

 

1. Add the extra quart of oil that GM recommends for track use. This is EXTREMELY important, as oil starvation at high lateral G will quickly destroy the engine.

> For a street-driven car what do you do after you added the extra quart at the track?

 

Drive it normally. It won't hurt anything.

 

I used RideTech's delrin kit, font camber maxed out around 2.7 or 2.8 degrees, rear at 1.5 degrees.
I'm very happy with that setup. The outside shoulders of the tires get surprisingly little additional wear, as compared to the centers of the tires.

My Subaru on the other hand wears the shoulders off of the tires without even going to the track.