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I have a 97, been a great car, BUT, the other day just driving down the road and it just shut down. It turned over just fine and would start for a split second and die. Called a wrecker and that was that. The shop called and said when they got a chance to look at it the next day it starts fine. Anyone have any expertise and might have a clue as to what's going on. We really don't have any dedicated Corvette mechanics in our town. I know this is a shot in the dark but figured it can't hurt to ask. Thanks
My car had that symptom when the ignition switch began failing. Electric contacts in the switch become burned and start losing contact resulting in a shut down. Often the car will restart OK. Sometimes every warning light on the instrument cluster lights up, reduced power, low voltage warnings appear on the DIC.
A clue is that an attempt to restart may be successful, sometimes after several unsuccessful tries. Usually no relative codes are set in the case of a failing ignition switch.
My car is on it's third ignition switch, the first lasted ten years, 80,000 miles, the second two years and 8,000 miles. The third has been going nine years and 30,000 miles so far.
Or it could be something else like a crank or cam sensor, throttle position sensor. Have the shop pull all codes, they may point to the cause.
I have a 97, been a great car, BUT, the other day just driving down the road and it just shut down. It turned over just fine and would start for a split second and die. Called a wrecker and that was that. The shop called and said when they got a chance to look at it the next day it starts fine. Anyone have any expertise and might have a clue as to what's going on. We really don't have any dedicated Corvette mechanics in our town. I know this is a shot in the dark but figured it can't hurt to ask. Thanks
Might be heat related and or they checked grounds. Ask if they let the car get to running temp.
Could be some contaminants have made their way into the switch. Give it a shot of CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner and clean your key. About 4 years ago my car would not start. Then it would. Gave it a shot of the cleaner and no further problems. Also, some have opined in previous post that possibly the key chip is not functioning as it should. If you have another key, try that as a possible solution to the issue.
Might be heat related and or they checked grounds. Ask if they let the car get to running temp.
That is EXACTLY what happened to my car years ago. When the engine was cold, it was fine 🙂. When coolant reached exactly 186°F, it started running terrible, (it took a LOT of diagnostics before we found out why!) and tripped the check engine light. It was excessive endplay on the crank,, and when coolant warmed, aluminum expanded, and tripped the code PO336-Crank position sensor. It does sound temp related......
That is EXACTLY what happened to my car years ago. When the engine was cold, it was fine 🙂. When coolant reached exactly 186°F, it started running terrible, (it took a LOT of diagnostics before we found out why!) and tripped the check engine light. It was excessive endplay on the crank,, and when coolant warmed, aluminum expanded, and tripped the code PO336-Crank position sensor. It does sound temp related......
Yea,don't ask me how but that's why i post had some issues but more frequently, when warmed up car would die cool down would start. End up being a wire to the the ingintion. when got hot it loosen up a wire insulation and just separatedd to kill engine cool down wire harden up to make contact and off i went. Just something esle to look at. Thats what this forume is for keep throwing ideas and the kithchen sink and hope one will work. And what i was told there is no bad suggeutions expect telling him to empty oil and revve the **** out of it to see if that helps. Plesae dont do that. I know your fursated but you will get through this. oh by the way i have my prescrtion that will put all your worry away if you need some.
After the car has shut down and only starts for a second, have the shop verify that there is 55psi fuel pressure at the fuel rail, remove a spark plug and check for spark, also observe the tachometer needle is it moving while cranking? Check the basic's fuel, spark, and timing.