Fuel pump making noise
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 961
Likes: 118
From: Panama City, Florida
Fuel pump making noise
1997 C5: I'm assuming it's the fuel pump making a high pitch noise from rear left. In the past it's done it off and on but now just started constant. And now when you crank the car the fuel gauge is accurate for a few seconds the goes to empty. Anyone know the approximate cost to have the fuel pump replaced?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 961
Likes: 118
From: Panama City, Florida
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 7,818
Likes: 2,267
From: Brighton MI
'97 and early '98 fuel pumps are known for the high pitched whine. It does not affect performance of the pump nor is it indicative of impending failure. It is just annoying. I have gotten so used to it, I really don't hear it anymore.
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 314
Likes: 61
fuel gauge issues are very common, but they are not normally associated with an abnormal fuel pump noise. That said, there is usually a “dead spot” in the gauge. Mine always occurred roughly at 1/4 tank. It can sometimes be related to where you regularly keep your gas. Techron will help if the condition is mild but the only real way to fix it is to get new senders.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 961
Likes: 118
From: Panama City, Florida
Yes it's done it off and on for several months now and like you, I got use to it. But it has not done it in a while until yesterday when it did it constantly for about an hour and at the same time the gauge stopped working (for the first time). Anyway, still all good as of a while ago. Just spent almost 4k on it last week in the shop. That cut into my fishing money.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 961
Likes: 118
From: Panama City, Florida
A shop in town spent a while on it but could not guarantee me they knew what was wrong so that was $125 diagnostic fee. I was ok with that because they did spend a lot of time on it. Then had to have a car carrier take it a Corvette shop a couple hours away. That was $600. The main problem was the crank sensor went out. A few months ago the DIC buttons quit working so while it was there I had them fix that. They send your Instrument panel to GM to be re-built keeping the same miles. New belts and tensioners, new front air dam, fluids, etc... It adds up in a hurry.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 961
Likes: 118
From: Panama City, Florida
I rounded up. The exact total price was $3625 which includes the $725 I spent before they even got the car. They certainly charge more for parts than we could get them for and shop labor is up there as well.. The Instrument Panel was a big chunk. Also had plugs, plug wires, injectors cleaned. Yes, It's a chunk but my car is back on the road and running great. I appreciate your input.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 289
Likes: 64
From: Edinburgh, Scotland
If it’s not been done, I would say it’s almost essential to go through the “ground” “splice packs” on a C5. Perhaps particularly earlier cars.
Plenty info on the forum and via google.
Also well worth checking the ground eyelet the fuel pump uses (I suspect undoubtedly the one the sender uses too). If you remove the left rear wheel follow some wiring toward the rear of the car in the wheel well (behind where the wheel would be). You should be able to see an eyelet fixed to the frame. It’s to the rear of the wheel well. On my car it was pretty rusty so not a good ground for the fuel pump. Often the factory screw/bolt may break off through being rusted into the frame but you can drill another hole, clean the metal to get a good ground point, and use a self tapping screw instead.
Plenty info on the forum and via google.
Also well worth checking the ground eyelet the fuel pump uses (I suspect undoubtedly the one the sender uses too). If you remove the left rear wheel follow some wiring toward the rear of the car in the wheel well (behind where the wheel would be). You should be able to see an eyelet fixed to the frame. It’s to the rear of the wheel well. On my car it was pretty rusty so not a good ground for the fuel pump. Often the factory screw/bolt may break off through being rusted into the frame but you can drill another hole, clean the metal to get a good ground point, and use a self tapping screw instead.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 150
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From: Arizona
But there is supposedly a recall for that and GM retrofitted some sort of ground wire or something to correct it. Does anybody know about this? Mine is doing the same thing and I can't get past the noise. It is not only annoying but it is so loud it is embarrassing.