Hi i want to get to about 420 whp on my corvette but im not sure if the transmission can handle that. Everywhere on the forums i see people saying it cant handle stock power but others saying they easily are pushing 500+ so I would like someone to clarify how much power I can safely add to the car without having to worry about the tranny blowing up after.

 

I have a 2000 with a built LS7 in it. Been yanking on that A4 for 60,000 miles with over 500whp. No issues.......YET!!! Not everyone 'gets a good one', or 'gets lucky like I have. Some things NOT to do;
1: Do NOT install a shift kit, without other, supporting internal trans mods.
2: Do NOT remove Torque Management. Instead, raise the ft/lbs setting from, say 450, up to 1,000 ft/lbs.....
​​​3: Don't expect it to last if you put a 4,000rpm stall converter in there, then switch tires to 13" wide slicks! I'm exaggerating, but I'm sure you get my point. According to some VERY knowledgeable LS engine/transmission guys, tires that break loose are better than tires that break transmissions....
I can't guarantee you anything, but it has worked for me... Best of luck to you........

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I was planning on just adding some 3.42s and go full bolt on nothing to crazy. What is this torque management you talk about though is that like a tunable setting for the tranny?

 

Torque Management is basically reducing engine power for microseconds when the trans shifts, at a given max torque setting in the tune. This allows the trans that vital extra bit of time for the clutch packs, bands, etc, to fully engage at reduced power. The 6spd manuals also have TM. Again, I've been VERY lucky, as most 4L60E trannys don't play well with 500+whp!!!

 

I agree with all the previous posts-----
I did do a 3.15 gear change to a 3.42 Z06 rear gear change and saw very little gains
The best mod you can make on ANY automatic car is a higher stall converter --As mentioned nothing crazy -I did a 3200 stall on mine and it made a HUGE difference
Trans tuning done correctly can make your trans LIVE----Never add line pressure--just lower the solenoid delays on the shifting -This prevents the clutches in your trans from slipping and wearing out and creating lots of heat---and it will do crisp sharp shifts
Delete the 3rd gear lock up on the TCC
Raise the 4th gear lock up until you are on the freeway like 53-55 MPH
Set the PWM tables on your TCC to read LOW 90--High 98
My car was rated at 475 crank HP so around 400 RWHP and never showed any signs of failure-
Install a larger trans fluid cooler !!
Set your radiator fans to come on earlier-(1st install a 160* thermo on your engine) as the trans fluid also is routed thru the radiator----Radiator engine coolant temps lower ? so the trans temps will be lower-- set the fans as such
#1 on at 200
#1 off at 195
#2 fan on at 205
#2 fan off at 201

Finally don't by a cheap converter !!! because if it fails it will also take out your whole trans by filling it full of metal !!
I prefer FTI Yank Circle D

 

X2 for Yank
I bought a 3,200 stall Yank in 2005. Yank had several 3,200 stall converters for sale. Mine had what Yank referred to as a high 'stall ratio', the highest offered for a 3,200 stall at that time. Yank explained it as "the higher the stall ratio, the tighter the converter will feel". They also said (and it makes sense) that I should go to at least a 3.42 diff, which not only makes the converter feel tighter, and will also improve acceleration even more, it will also lower trans fluid temps by having less slippage. If you leave the stock A4 diff (2.73/3.15) in place, the converter is going to make the car feel lazy at low speeds, especially the 2.73. I've never heard of anyone running a 2.73 with a higher stall converter, but I'm sure someone has!! I hope this helps....