C5 nasty noise when shifting
got this c5 about a month ago. PO claims along with all the other work ( crank, pistons, cam etc) that it has a new spec 2 clutch.
the car has tons of little issues. It was rode hard,, put away wet. But it's done what I wanted. A driver.
Sunday night after a good 3 hour highway cruise, moderately hard shakedown I returned to city driving. After getting on it a bit 1-3 started making a pretty decent grinding noise , I drove a bit today and I can replicate it when my foot is in it. When clutch is depressed , during shifts, but will go away once I am in gear and release clutch pedal.
my first instinct is that the throwout bearing is shot. I had some inkling the throw out or pilot bearing had a hum all along.
I checked the fluid for the clutch. Was near full ( coincidentally there is no bracket or anything holding the reservoir in place ) but only took an ounce or 2 to top off.
the car is going into a vette mechanic Tuesday to check a power steering leak and just give it a general once over.
But as a general statement, should I be mentally preparing myself for some serious disassembly at the shop? Or is there a chance something stupid like shifter linkage is binding up etc?
Thanks guys, sorry for the long winded post
when my car was apart to correct my drivetrain noise with a new clutch instal, (McCloud, yeah), there was nothing but black clutch dust where the pilot bearing used to be. Some ditch the fragile looking needle bearings in the pilot for a bronze oil bushing, said by some to be worthwhile if you are pushing the car hard, but the bushings don't last as long as rollers. luckily, an OEM pilot bearing is just fine with me, so I don't have to experiment to find the truth of the matter, since I paid to have the thing pulled apart, and it wasn't cheap.
I also had a couple of broken springs in the clutch, with noise on both acceleration and deceleration, none while running in gear, hard to pinpoint the source while driving. disassembly made things pretty obvious, and from the look of things, I am glad I didn't tear a bunch of stuff up from broken parts, it looked very possible, and I let it go longer than I wanted, while searching for a garage I could trust to take apart a C5.
Last edited by strand rider; Apr 15, 2021 at 01:52 AM.





On the upside, it appears that it is in fact a spec clutch inside the bellhousing. We are trying to avoid pulling the bellhousing if possible. but will make that decision a little later today.
Right now it is all about deciding if the inner shaft cut into the tube itself enough to trash it. or if anything is salvageable.
while taking it apart, it was noted that the slave cylinder has a thicker spacer, which is not uncommon, but likely explains why the clutch releases so high in the travel. Does anyone have experience with setting this gap? is it incremental adjustment depending on spacer thickness? it would be nice to get the clutch engagement closer to the floor, without having it constantly dragging naturally.
The whole thing fit together pretty snugly when I did mine last month. I pressed new bearings and eliminated the guibos with a longer shaft.
My spec clutch (3+) came with a guide on a sheet of paper for measuring the travel distance of the throw-out bearing and comparing it to the height of the fully engaged clutch.
I want to say the spacer I put in measured in the ~.200" area.
Ideally that would be dialed in per the sheet, but you could then adjust pedal position with an adjustable master cylinder. The Tick one puts a turnbuckle on the pedal connection that you can lengthen or shorten to your liking.
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Here is where it gets weird. if we remove the large clip from the tail section, the clunk goes away. clip reinstalled, clunk returns. seems to be the bearings in the tail section are toast.
hoping to have the bearings swapped out and the tube back in today.
at this point between desperation and lack of c5 parts on shelves, I pulled the trigger on DSS carbon fiber. Seems the people who run them love it.
it should be here Tuesday. I know the shop is as anxious as me.
Fingers crossed this thing spins noise free and I can be on my way.
solid couplers both ends. God awful noise is gone.
A huge hassle to get this finished. And naturally a bunch of other repairs while apart. Rear tie rods. Diff mount. Bunch of misc hardware.
the solid prop shaft does have some vibration. But after a few hours and about 200 miles, I found the sweet spots where it isn't bad.
what I did learn having 2 entire TT side by side and apart. There is some inconsistencies with prop shafts when gm installed them.
Either way, not a cheap or fun fix. But I do have some solid aluminum couplers I'll be listing tomorrow.












