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Fun times, at Fred Meyers yesterday, and poof, the car won't start. Won't take a jump took it to auto zone to have it charged and checked, not even a year old. Either they forgot to charge it or it won't take a charge but in any case, the kid lied to me and said it was a good battery, and when I got it back to the car, it was exactly where it was when I had taken it out 3 hours earlier and the people that were there when I dropped it off had been replaced by others. I'm just wondering if it is the alternator and if it is. Is there a certain kind that I need to get for my 2002 c5? I don't want to go off half-cocked and just buy one nilly ***** if it needs to be a certain one for this car. (I've learned to ask these types of questions,lol) Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!!
I will do that. It was late and they were open till midnight so I figured what harm can it do? lol. Probably not much help or harm except for my last nerve. LOL Goofy kid.
Thank you for replying. Appreciated! Oh, so do you have any ideas what the best alternator might be for this car? If I wind up needing one, that is.
Have a lovely evening! Thanks again.
Aftermarket alternators are finicky in these cars so the best bet is to take yours to a alternator shop and let them rebuild yours...many horror stories on this Forum concerning these aftermarket alternators...good luck !!
I would make sure the battery is good, before replacing the alternator. I do not know your level of car knowledge but its very easy to place a DMM/Multimeter set to DC volts and measure across the battery terminals with car running, meter should read 13.5v or slightly higher depending on the battery's charge level. Doing this test will rule out the altenator as the problem.
The battery did have a bad cell. However, put in the new one and the car still won't start. All the dash lights come on like normal but no crank, no click, no start. So I'm going through fuses yet again just to be sure something didn't blow. After that, I'm screwed bc I will be at a loss. My car knowledge is very limited. Everything I do or have done, I learned here or on youtube after watching 9 thousand videos on the same thing. You never know what crucial piece of info. someone might leave out. If you have some ideas I would love to hear them. Thank you for your time and attention.
Lesa
With limited experience and maybe lack of some basic diagnostic equipment this may be a little difficult for you to diagnose...you can try selecting “battery voltage” on the DIC turn the key on and see what it reads...I had a bad ignition switch a few years ago but I knew it must be an ignition switch because I knew I had a fully charged battery...my DIC was reading about 8 volts so I quickly cycled the switch on and off a bunch of times and it started...I cleaned off whatever corrosion may have been on the contacts inside the switch..try that !!...also does your security light on the dash go out when you turn the key on ??
I always advise people to check the TDR "Theft deterant relay" and verify you can hear it click when you turn the key to the start position. The TDR is located above the BCM in the passenger footwell area to the left of the fuse box. It is identifiable by a red and violet wires, and smaller gage yellow and yellow/black stripped wires. The TDR is the relay that sends 12 volts to energize the starter, post after verifying TDR operation or non operation.
MY C5 failed in the Fred Meyer parking lot as well. Must be the store’s fault.
If the TDR is clicking, it’s likely the starter solenoid. Sometimes using a long stick (old broom handle) and a hammer, you can whack the solenoid and it will start.
If the TDR isn’t clicking, you have to trouble shoot back from there.
For instance, the clutch switch if it’s a stick or the neutral safety switch on the shifter if it’s an auto.
These threads always beat around way too much because the OP never gives enough information. The car won't start isn't a valuable symptom description. Will the starter spin the engine and it won't fire up? Or can the engine not even spin over? This detail is important because it cleaves off half the possibilities one way or another between starting/charging system failures or theft deterrent system or engine controls failures. So which is it?
These threads always beat around way too much because the OP never gives enough information. The car won't start isn't a valuable symptom description. Will the starter spin the engine and it won't fire up? Or can the engine not even spin over? This detail is important because it cleaves off half the possibilities one way or another between starting/charging system failures or theft deterrent system or engine controls failures. So which is it?
In this post the OP clearly stated what her concern was in post #7 !!
Thanks I missed it between the rest of the discussion. Apparently I wasn't the only one since that pretty clearly rules out some of the previously mentioned possibilities. Not sure how the OP determined there was a bad cell without cutting open the battery or having more sophisticated troubleshooting abilities and tools. Since changing the battery didn't fix the problem, that means the battery wasn't the issue so I'm extra skeptical. Makes me curious about the neutral safety switch or ignition switch...
Yesterday I had this problem…for me it was pass key sensor after troubleshooting. I looked for DIC for codes. I had DTC B2723. I ended up jumping the TDR and drove it home.
Yesterday I had this problem…for me it was pass key sensor after troubleshooting. I looked for DIC for codes. I had DTC B2723. I ended up jumping the TDR and drove it home.
Sorry about the lapse in time. I have been under the weather, but good now.
So, yes, the security light on the dash does go out with the key in the on position. I had just replaced my ignition switch a couple of months ago, too.
MY C5 failed in the Fred Meyer parking lot as well. Must be the store’s fault.
If the TDR is clicking, it’s likely the starter solenoid. Sometimes using a long stick (old broom handle) and a hammer, you can whack the solenoid and it will start.
If the TDR isn’t clicking, you have to trouble shoot back from there.
For instance, the clutch switch if it’s a stick or the neutral safety switch on the shifter if it’s an auto.
Etc etc
Hi Ron, Sorry about the time-lapse, I was sick but I'm good now. Anyway, Yes I do hear the clicking from around the passenger's footwell fuse box.
I was wondering too if it could be the starter. I was told that there's a small wire on it also that over time gets lose or breaks. Btw it is an automatic trans.
I don't know what you mean when talking about the neutral safety switch? I did find a few maxi fuses that were not showing as blown but when I took them out and looked at them (as I learned to do with the bcm fuse crap show the last time the car acted this way, and which turned out to be the culprit. Started right up after replacing that)the prongs had some burn marks on them. I'm assuming that was all part of the AAA guy's faux pas. So I just replaced all of the fuses. The ones I noticed with burn marks on the prongs were all maxi fuses. But I replaced every fuse anyway. So I guess it's time to check the starter, now? Okay, you'll have to forgive me. Am I beating the starter with the hammer or the broomstick?? You said broomstick and hammer. Is the hammer in case I break the broomstick when I have yet to smack it the appropriate amount of times??? Whichever one I'm using to smack it with, what is the other for?? I'm confused and with that comes apologies for my lack of knowledge. Oh and robmiz said he jumped his tdr? Is that something I need to try?? I got a new tdr just in case I needed it, I'd have it. I figured since it is clicking that means that it's working, right....wrong? Wow, my lack of knowledge is beginning to make my brain cramp and probably yours too? Sorry.