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If you have a hesitation I’d clean your MAF sensor and would be a good idea to clean your throttle body...also a good idea to check for codes...you can do it through the DIC !!
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I would be more concerned with those coils, they are well known to fail... if you still have your stock ones swap them back on and see if anything changes... could your issue be tune related?
Last edited by StingrayRebel; May 25, 2021 at 09:30 PM.
I would be more concerned with those coils, they are well known to fail... if you still have your stock ones swap them back on and see if anything changes... could your issue be tune related?
Seems like its either the tune or the fuel pump / filter. This car sat for over a year when the previous owner passed. I've did just about everything else - o2 sensors, plugs, wires, tried another set of known working coils, cleaned tb, another working maf...
I'm gonna hook up a fuel pressure gauge and thoroughly see what it does this time. This is an 04 so a royal pain to change the fuel pump filter assy from what I read
Also I read a bad MAP sensor can do this so I might try that too.
Last edited by vettefx76; May 26, 2021 at 12:00 PM.
Well I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the passenger side rail and when I turned the key on it went from 0 to 48 psi and stayed there (Bear in mind, I drove the car yesterday evening). Turned the key off and came back an hour later it was down to 30 psi....
Hooked up the gauge to the driver side rail and turned key on, it went up to 55 psi and stayed. Key off and an hour later it was down to about 35 psi....
You guys think this is my problem? Idk why both rails are showing different pressures with the key on...
Last edited by vettefx76; May 26, 2021 at 11:07 PM.
Do you have some special kind of fuel rail ???...my ‘01 has only one schrader valve fitting on the driver side...your profile says your car is an ‘01 but you say in post #6 it’s an ‘04...would help if you can correct that for future reference when it comes to wiring differences between those years...can you take a picture of your setup ??...max fuel pressure decay is 5 psi after 1 minute and if it’s more than that there is guidance from that point in diagnosis !!
Oh yes I need to change that. This is a 2004 with the returnless fuel system and yes it is modded with the Magnuson TVS2300 kit installed and a boostapump with the factory pump as far as I know. It feels like over the past few months it is getting longer to start as well...
Left the fuel pressure gauge on last night and it was at around 55 psi on the driver side rail and this morning it was at 0....
Oh yes I need to change that. This is a 2004 with the returnless fuel system and yes it is modded with the Magnuson TVS2300 kit installed and a boostapump with the factory pump as far as I know. It feels like over the past few months it is getting longer to start as well...
Left the fuel pressure gauge on last night and it was at around 55 psi on the driver side rail and this morning it was at 0....
Like I had mentioned letting it sit overnight and checking pressure is not the correct diagnostic process !!
It sounds like the priming pressure is fine. It immediately goes back to 55psi when you turn the key on and the pump starts running, right? Does it hold the pressure while it's running and driving? Those are what really matters.
It sounds like the priming pressure is fine. It immediately goes back to 55psi when you turn the key on and the pump starts running, right? Does it hold the pressure while it's running and driving? Those are what really matters.
Well I just went and turned the key on and this time it stayed at zero for about 15 seconds and then very slowly started creeping up to 10 and struggling to go up. I did not start it as I had to leave for work... never seen it do that before.
Last edited by vettefx76; May 27, 2021 at 10:35 AM.
That slow pressure is definitely wrong and shouldn't be happening.
The PCM doesn't prime for more than about 2 or 3 seconds, so it's not powering the pump for that long. Possibly it was set longer when tuned or your aftermarket add-ons are keeping it powered.
Well I just went and turned the key on and this time it stayed at zero for about 15 seconds and then very slowly started creeping up to 10 and struggling to go up. I did not start it as I had to leave for work... never seen it do that before.
You say you have some sort of “Boostapump” gizmo installed in your fuel system...never heard of it and don’t know how it’s wired but if you jump pins 87 and 30 at the fuel pump relay the pump will operate...my video on checking the relay is enclosed below...maybe it will help !!
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
You say you have some sort of “Boostapump” gizmo installed in your fuel system...never heard of it and don’t know how it’s wired but if you jump pins 87 and 30 at the fuel pump relay the pump will operate...my video on checking the relay is enclosed below...maybe it will help !!
Most BAP's are wired in with a "Hot wire kit" that take's 12volts straight off the alternator and bypasses the factory wiring
And these also add another relay and fuse into the mix
Just to clarify, a boost a pump is a small electronic box that is mounted next to the fuel pump, it is activated by a Hobbs switch that is installed on the vacuum line on the brake booster. It boosts or raises the voltage to the fuel pump to provide enough fuel under boost conditions.