As some of you may have seen, I had issues with battery charge and power drain. I have solved the power drain and that issue is resolved.

I have a 97 with a stroked 402, I picked up a month ago from a member here. Well at times, I don't drive the car every day, I put the key in the ignition, turn it and NOTHING happens. The gauges function, sweep as they should, but I have no "security" light.

Today I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes, reconnected it, as I did, I heard it "reset" and the headlight relay clicked.

Go to start it and NOTHING, gauges swept across the dash, dash lights are on, no codes, but NOTHING, it is as if I was just turning the key in an empty hole.

I attempt to start it a few times, and as I said it did NOTHING, I left the key in the ignition in the start position for about 10 seconds without trying to start it. After this time the horn beeped, "security" light came on, then the car started without issue.

I let the car idle for some time and it was just fine with no issue.

The key fob doesn't work as I was told it didn't by the previous owner.

Does this sound like a failing ignition switch? Should I also replace the lock cylinder? Any help would be greatly appreciated. When it acts up again, I will check the voltage on the fuses to check those.

 

Sounds like the Ignition switch, so the security light should be off before turning the key to crank the engine over. The key cylinder is okay, the only time the key cylinder needs replacing is when the key doesn't turn from the off position.

 

When you open the door the security light should be flashing until you turn the key on...in a few seconds the security should go out...is that what you’re seeing ??

 

The security light doesn't come on at all, when the car doesn't start and I experience the issue. But before it does, and at times it does fine, the security light is flashing when I open the door, but when the car cranks, the security light goes off after a few seconds as normal.

The "column lock" has been deleted through hptuners, I have confirmed that myself with the help of a tuner, but I don't know for sure if an LMC5 has been installed or not.

 

So I tried to start the car, same issue, NOTHING. Disconnected the battery for a few minutes, tried it again nothing. Disconnected the battery again, car started, but got reduced engine power, no communication from TCS or ABS...shut car off, disconnected battery, reconnected, tried to start nothing, turn the key back and forth 3 times, 3rd time horn beeped, car started with 0 issues, other than my seatbelt light stays illuminated, even when seatbelt is on. Also was getting low voltage, but voltage is fine. After the 3rd time and it started, now no issues.

I had no reading from the TPMS, drive a few minutes, get a reading from TPMS, drive car about 25 miles and have no issues. I am totally lost, I am ordering an ignition switch and replacing it.

Any advice or any suggestions would be extremely helpful

 

Select “battery voltage” on the DIC...see what it reads with key on...when my ignition switch went bad I knew my battery was OK...I saw about 8 volts on the DIC...I cycled the key numerous times to maybe clean the oxidation off the switch contacts...it started right up !!

 

Before I fixed my batter drain issue, it would read about 1 volt lower(or more) on the DIC than the multimeter read on the battery. Now the DIC reads 13.0-13.1 with the car running, when I am able to start it, and without it running the DIC reads 12.3ish and the battery will read 12.6ish on the multimeter (without the car cranked)

 

DIC voltage is about .5 volts lower than what you’ll read directly at the battery terminals...when the car doesn’t crank is when you will have to check for that much lower voltage reading on the DIC !!

 

Due to the previous battery drain issue, I have been leaving the DIC on battery voltage, when the car wouldn't crank, the DIC showed low 11.xx volts, each time. And I remember previously I noticed the DIC voltage reading was much different than the reading with a multimeter, even with the car cranked before I fixed the battery drain (removed the fuse for the sub/amp, installed by previous owner). The car would be drained over night to less than 10 volts, now it sits a week and the volts is mid 12.x. But now it seems I am having a totally different issue. I really appreciate ALL of your assistance.

 

I drove the car a few times this holiday weekend and for the most part it did just fine. It say for roughly 40 hours, tried to start and NOTHING. I am still tracking down this issue, I have not received the ignition switch as of yet.

 

If you are replacing the ignition switch you could try this in the mean time to see if it really is the switch
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html