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Yes. It's REALLY close, and you'll likely have to drag the rear cradle out on a sheet of thin wood or something (not enough clearance for anything thicker).
Yes you can, I did it last summer. I already had the car sitting on a set of wheel dollies to make it easier to move around the garage. But since the car was sitting up higher off the ground, that also allowed me to fit the set of thicker rubber blocks between the jacking pucks (bright Yellow) and the QuickJack. Not sure if the job would have been possible without those rubber blocks. I used a floor jack with a wooden adapter to hold the rear sub frame cradle / suspension (watch it will try to rotate and fall off the jack without some type of support setup) and two transmission jacks on the torque tube transmission/differential assembly. BTW, don't let that the assembly rotate when your moving it or you will cover the garage floor with gear lube, unless of course you seal up the differential side plates openings.
Yes you can, I did it last summer. I already had the car sitting on a set of wheel dollies to make it easier to move around the garage. But since the car was sitting up higher off the ground, that also allowed me to fit the set of thicker rubber blocks between the jacking pucks (bright Yellow) and the QuickJack. Not sure if the job would have been possible without those rubber blocks. I used a floor jack with a wooden adapter to hold the rear sub frame cradle / suspension (watch it will try to rotate and fall off the jack without some type of support setup) and two transmission jacks on the torque tube transmission/differential assembly. BTW, don't let that the assembly rotate when your moving it or you will cover the garage floor with gear lube, unless of course you seal up the differential side plates openings.
Forgive my ignorance, but why is there dyno wrap on the torque tube, what does it help with?
Yes. It's REALLY close, and you'll likely have to drag the rear cradle out on a sheet of thin wood or something (not enough clearance for anything thicker).
Ive had mine out twice in the last month just on esco jack stands which say 11" min height(where I have mine set to) and then I have the tall aluminum jack pucks, I guess are 2", so 13" off the ground. The quick jack 5000 says it will go 21"...
I lower the cradle on a motorcycle jack from northern tool then I transfer it to a 4 wheel movers dolly which I guess is about 6" high. Then I have to pull a shock off the cradle then I can roll the whole cradle out one side of the car. Plenty of clearance. If you dont pull one shock completely yea its way to tight, but pulling one shock makes it pretty easy to pull out one side.
Yes, it can be done on jack stands, the photo below is from a friend of mine doing his clutch job that way. Plus there is a tad bit more room under there to maneuver the creeper under without the QuickJacks in place. If (and that is BIG HUGE IF) I get my garage addition, I plan on buying a MaxJax M6K, but that is another story....
I did my torque tube last summer as well, the quick jacks worked great. When I put everything back together I put the torque tube in by itself and then installed the trans, it made lining everything up easier.
for you guys showing pics using jack stands please PLEASE be careful. Those things just scare the hell out of me.
When I was a teenager a guy in our neighborhood died when a car fell on him. I don't know the details so jack stands may not have even been involved. They just scare me.
If something ever happens you won't likely get a do over. So be careful.
for you guys showing pics using jack stands please PLEASE be careful. Those things just scare the hell out of me.l.
DITTO... I've had two different cars slide off double stacked blocks on my quickjack. Even though those rubber blocks squished and the car moved sideways the quickjacks weren't phased at all. Rock solid.
When I use jackstands.. I put extra stands under the car and also the loose wheels. Anything that might stop the car from falling and NOT crush a person is prudent.
ohhhh I like the transmission jacks!!! great idea.
I've done mine 3 times on Quick Jacks
Get the car as high as possible with the rubber blocks
I used one of those tranny jacks, and removed it piecemeal, with a jackstand holding the remainder of the drivetrain. The whole thing together is very heavy and awkward. Broken down, it is much more manageable and safer. And much less risk of damaging pilot bearing etc when you put it all back together.
Without a 4 post lift and proper trans jacks/extra people, I would do as Acroy said.
I'd remove parts as follows all while supporting the TT from angling down too far as to not damage firewall.
Rear cradle+diff (axles/UCA remain attached)
Trans
Torque Tube
Bellhousing
When I did a clutch on a 2 post lift, my WHOLE drivetrain came out in one shot with a big trans jack at the rear and someone holding onto the front of the TT when working it out from under the car. However...you CAN balance the whole assembly. One man show on a Quick Jack I would not suggest that.
Another trick:
lower the front cradle on it's bolts as much as possible. This buys maybe 1.5" and makes it a lot easier to get to the bellhousing bolts!
Another trick:
lower the front cradle on it's bolts as much as possible. This buys maybe 1.5" and makes it a lot easier to get to the bellhousing bolts!
Another fun fact, doing this lets you do a cam swap WITHOUT removing the PS rack
I'm in the middle of doing a rear main seal replacement on my 04 Z right now using a Quick Jack. Working great so far. I lowered the rear cradle on a Harbor Freight motorcycle jack and the front of the torque tube on a floor jack.
For safety I always use concrete blocks with wood on top as backup support, especially if I'm using jack stands.
Good luck!!
anyone dropped the drive train using a quick jack?
