Hi, my C5 starts and run fine but once it warms up it stalls and will not restart until after several tries. It doesn’t throw any codes until after several tries P0335 then I clear it and it starts fine but when I put it in gear and start to pull off it stalls again and won’t restart until I get the P0335 code and clear it. Help!!! Please!

 

P0335 is a Crank Sensor DTC…could be the sensor or wiring !!

 

it only give me the code after trying to start it several times

 

A P0335 is a "2 trip DTC" which means if you clear the code and try to start it the MIL will illuminate only after the SECOND start attempt !!...also PLEASE include info about your car in your profile...year, mods, tune etc...it's also a good idea to put your location since there are many Forum members that know the car inside and out that may be willing to help you out if you're no too far away !!

 

it’s a 99 convertible, long tube headers, no cats, black wing, oil catch can and the MAF is moved next to the throttle body. I’m in South Mississippi. The car is now just shutting off after it warms up while idling in neutral.

Thanks

 

Like I had mentioned you put that info on your profile...click on your profile name and go to "view public profile" ...you enter your info there. Don't know if you just want some guidance on what this issue "might" be before taking it to a shop or you have enough technical skill to tackle this yourself ??

 

I’m not looking for anything free, just trying to get some ideas of where to start checking. This problem just came from no where and it isn’t giving me anything that could be the problem. So before I get it on a rack and remove the headers and starter to check CKP sensor I wanted some opinions.
Thanks

 

EVERYTHING here is free…LOL !!…it’s always a good idea to check wiring if you decide to change the sensor…and stick with an OEM sensor…no aftermarket…especially Dorman !!…if you want to verify it is the CKP you will have no spark or injector pulse…also watch the Tach when trying to start…no Tach movement is a pretty good sign the CKP is toast !!

 

Thanks for the info, I’m jacking it up today to check the wires on the CKP. The tach doesn’t move when I crank it but once it starts the tach works fine. Then after it warms up it shuts off and won’t restart until I get the CKP code and clear it. Thanks again.

 

I have an unusual, an somewhat interesting, question. Is your C5 an A4, or M6? If an A4, we'll go from there......

 

I agree, it’s the crank sensor: I had mine go out on me and it did the same thing:
it’s a relatively easy fix with the exception of having to drop the exhaust to remove the starter which gives you access to the sensor.
Good luck

 

It’s an A4

 

Hi guys I replaced the Crank Sensor and fuel filter. I haven’t learned the sensor but it it’s still shutting off after about 7 minutes of running at idle in park. Any other ideas? It does restart after about 2 or 3 minutes sitting, runs for about 7 minutes then shuts off.

 

MMMM ??…did you replace with an OEM sensor or an aftermarket ??…when it shuts down and you try starting it do you see that Tach move indicating bad CKP sensor again ??…I can remember a Forum member a few years back who replaced his with an aftermarket…we told him to get an OEM sensor and car was OK after he replaced with an OEM….could still be a wiring issue…heat equals resistance in a circuit which can lead to an issue. Did you compare the old sensor vs the new one ??…the distance from the end of the sensor to the reluctor wheel is only a few thousandths of an inch and is critical in the sensor working correctly !!

 

yes I used an OEM. The Tach does not move when I crank it but it starts right up and the tach moves once it starts. It’s exactly the same size. The car runs great from startup to shut down.
should the tach move once it starts if the sensor is bad? Thanks

 

If the Tach doesn’t move the car isn’t going to start…don’t know if you have cleared the codes after changing the sensor but I’d see if the P0335 came back…maybe a bad new sensor or like I had mentioned wiring…if you do want to check the wiring just give us a shout…just 3 wires….12 volt feed, a signal wire and a ground…the thing is if you start wiggling wires you may fix the issue…I like to pierce the wire so I don’t accidentally fix the wiring issue if that’s it !!

 

The tach doesn’t move when it’s cranking but once it start the tach moves. I don’t have any trouble codes when it shuts down. I would like to check wires. Thanks

 

The reason I asked whether your car was automatic or 6sp could be pertinent, but let's hope it's not, for your sake. Has anyone ever touched your drivetrain, like removing engine, torque tube, etc.? Years ago, my A4 car was extensively modded. Shop admitted it was the only A4 C5 they'd ever built. Within a year, my car started throwing a PO336 or PO335 code. Pretty sure it was PO336. Anyway, what happened was this; It only set the code when coolant hit about 186°. Let it cool, clear code, and all was well again, until it came back on again@ 186°!!! The A4 cars have a specific-And VERY IMPORTANT-reassembly process that should be followed!! Neither the shop (remember, only A4 they'd ever done!), nor I, were aware of this procedure. In layman's terms, it amounts to this:
On the M6 speed cars, everything 'floats' on the torque tube input spline, it has to so clutch can operate. NOT so on the A4 cars!! They have a pinch bolted clamp that locks down on the input shaft of the torque tube, locking the crank and input shaft of torque tube together. You must get the car up to normal operating temps, pull into the garage, shut it down, and as quickly as you can, get under the car, remove the rubber inspection hole (it is oblong) cover, then rotate the motor until you can get a socket on the pinch bolt. Once you have the socket on the bolt head, and while the engine is still hot, crack the bolt loose. This allows all the heat expanded aluminum in the entire drivetrain to 'move', taking all the pressure off the cranks thrust bearing when hot, which is where the engine spends 99.9% of its life. If your drivetrain has never been removed, then this doesn't apply to you, OP, and it's probably just the sensor. We tried 2 new sensors on my car, with no change!! This happened to me when the LS series engines were in their infancy, as far as troubleshooting unusual problems were concerned. It cost me many, MANY thousands of dollars to figure this out. Then, we all read the manual Hope this helps someone, and BTW, this procedure is listed in the factory service manual, and printed as a 'critical step!!!

 

Thanks for the info but I don’t think I had any drive train work. Do you know where to check the wires and what I should be reading?

 

I’m not sure if I mentioned this but it all started about a week after this storm in South Mississippi. I was already out and I ran through lots of water getting home. Car ran fine for about a week then just stopped while driving and no codes. Thanks