I recently installed a Monster LT1-S with a new slave, pilot bearing, remote bleeder, and lightweight flywheel. Did the install on jackstands around two feet in the air and used an ATV Jack to drop the rear subframe with differential, transmission, and torque tube as single unit. This was to rectify a sticking clutch pedal on high RPM shifts and a factory clutch which was over powered. While my clutch wasn’t slipping under load, it had obviously been hot. Both the flywheel and pressure plate had significant heat markings and glazing. My guess it it slipped excessively during high RPM shifts from being overpowered when coupled with the stock clutch’s known weaknesses at high RPM.

A few things worth mentioning that would have saved me some headaches:

The shifter box barely clears the brake and fuel lines in the tunnel. If you don’t want to remove it I would suggest removing the transmission from the torque tube first. I did everything as a unit and it was a little challenging to clear everything inside the tunnel. Reinstall reverse from removal.

The low profile flywheel bolts supplied for the LT1-S are definitely low profile. The slightly rounded shoulders on most sockets will quickly try to round them off. Cut a socket down by a quarter inch to make it square faced. It will seat much better. Rent or buy a flywheel turner.

The LT1-S will fit into the C5 bellhousing without removing it. You must install the flywheel then remove one of the pressure plate locating pins. With the missing pin in the six o’clock position, the disks and pressure plate assembly will slide into place. Simply reinsert the pin and the associated spacer once it’s supported by the alignment tool. The pin is pressed in - I removed it with a pair of vise grips and rag to make sure I didn't gouge the finish.

The slave and master quick detach was very frustrating both on release and install. Once I completely removed the driver’s side header it was no problem. It’s extremely important to be very straight when connecting or disconnecting the fitting or it will not push in and latch. Seemed impossible with the header in and was very easy with the header out.

I measured the slave and pressure plate distance per the included instructions and did not use a spacer. Get extra hands when measuring. Holding a caliper and straight edge inside the tunnel can be challenging. It’s also difficult while compressing the slave cylinder.

As a side note, I read all about match balancing the new clutch and flywheel assembly to the old one. My stock LS6 flywheel had three weights in it. I installed the Monster as it was packaged, taking care to ensure everything was lined up the way they sent it to me and I have no strange vibrations or complaints. I did not match balance even though I had additional flywheel weights. I’ve heard mixed results on this, but knowing the LS6 was internally balanced, and that Monster takes care to zero balance their assemblies, I took the chance. No complaints. Some other threads I discovered while researching this indicated Chevrolet removed the step to transfer your flywheel weights from the procedure in later updates to the FSM.

As reported elsewhere, stock feeling pedal with some extra noise in neutral from the floater with the clutch out. It may be a little more touchy than the factory LS6 clutch but I think that will rectify with break-in. If you didn’t drive them back to back you would never know. Hopefully this helps someone in the future when they’re searching for information. It would have helped me!

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

Thanks for the tidbits of information. I'm going in soon with my new Monster clutch.