Ok, guys and girls, I apologize ahead of time for the long post, but I want to include as much information as possible.

I have a 97 base model with a forged 402 from Texas Speed. I purchased it about 2 months ago from a member here, and I have been having small nit-picky electrical issues ever since. The previous owner constantly stored the car in a garage on a batter tender. I do not currently have that luxury, it has an aftermarket amp, subwoofer, and stereo installed. I learned rather quickly that it had quite a serious parasitic drain. I have since removed the fuse for the amp and sub..it has stopped my battery drain.

There is a module installed that allows me to start the car without pressing the clutch and it automatically turns off the TCS system also.

I then had issues with an intermittent start, was disconnecting the battery and it was "resetting" then at times I would get "No Communication" from the TCS and ABS. Sometimes I would have this issue and other times I wouldn't. I would let the car sit for a few hours, change nothing, then the car would start totally normally.

I took advice from members here and I replaced the ignition switch. I am still having strange intermittent issues. I work during the day and when I arrive home (415 PM) and it has been over 90 degrees here. I attempt to start the car and NOTHING happens. When I open the door, the "security" light is not activated and I attempt to start the car, the ignition seems like it is just in a dead hole and it does nothing at all.

I have tested this theory with the heat every day for the past 10 days and when it is hot, I have a no start issue, but when the temperature drops the car will start, but sometimes has the below listed issues.

I wait a few hours and when it cools down outside later in the evening, I unlock the door and at times (only a few) the alarm immediately starts going off, I put the key into the ignition, the alarm stops, and the car starts without issue. But other times the alarm does not go off, the car does nothing with the key, and when I place the into key the ignition, it takes me turning it a few times before the gauges "sweep" then the car will start. A few times I get the "No Communication" with the TCS and ABS..I get weird messages about "low fuel" "windshield washer fluid" and "reduced engine power" and I do not have any reading with the TPMS system.

I will turn the car off, restart and then all is just fine and the previous issues with the TPMS, TCS, ABS, etc. are resolved and everything seems to be just fine.

Other times I have to turn the key a few times or leave it in the start position, the horn will beep, then the car will start without issue.

The other day during the heat of the day, I was placing the key into the ignition and I could hear a "click" in the passenger side floorboard, which I believe is the Theft Deterrent Relay activating. I repeated the "click" multiple times, each time I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump prime as it should.

Other times the alarm would not activate when I opened the door, the security light would not be illuminated, but when I put the key in the ignition after attempting to start it a few times, the horn would beep 1 time briefly, the gauges would sweep, then the car would start.

Also the other day, I got the "remove key, wait 10 seconds" I did and attempted to start the car and it would not do anything .I waited a few hours until it cooled down outside and the car started perfectly without issue.

Today the car started without issue, I started it early in the morning, temperature was about 80, I drove to my destination, parked under a tree with the windows cracked (I was at a family member's house), I go to leave and it was quite warm outside, but the car started without issue, except for the "security" light remained illuminated (not blinking) the entire 25 mile drive home. I arrive home, turn the car off, restart the car, then the "security" light turned off as it should be.

After I replaced the ignition switch the seatbelt light on the dash stays on even when the seatbelt is fastened.

I am really at a total loss and I do not know really what else I can do, the only variable seems to be the outside temperature. When it cools down outside the car will start, but sometimes I have weird DTC codes and NO COMM with the TCS and ABS, but when I cut the car off, restart, the car is just fine.

 

If the only variable is outside temperature I would suggest moving to Alaska !!…only kidding !!…the FIRST thing I would do is remove that aftermarket module…these things can really create havoc with the electrical system depending on how they are wired…what are those other “weird” codes you are seeing ??…are you using a scan tool or reading these through the DIC ??…I would clear all the codes then attempt to start the car when it’s hot and see what codes you see before turning off the ignition switch…write ALL of them down and report back…for any “no comm” with any module you always check the power and grounds on that module…since this is an ABS/TC no comm I would maybe try removing the EBCM module connector and see what happens…let’s see if you have any “U” codes stored which are communication ones !!…what you’re seeing may also be a BCM related issue !!

 

I have the pulled the codes through the DIC, and I have them written down from a few days and are as follows. I will pull them again today and see what I get, if anything different. I have cleaned all the grounds, I am just confused because the issue is completely intermittent and isn't a consistent issue. And by "weird" codes I mean messages, like "washer fluid low" "fuel low". But then if I shut off and restart the issue goes away, but it must be cooler outside or nothing changes. As of the other day the codes that I had are: P0103 HC (I am on a speed density tune so this one makes sense) P1571 H, P1644 H, U1176 H C, U1160 H C, B2282,H, B2284 H, U1064 H, B2283 H, B2285 H, U1064 H, and U1255 H.

I read these codes as I was having the "NO COMM" from the TCS and ABS as well as no readings from the TPMS.

I was able to get the car to start, by testing the theft deterrent relay as previously suggested by others on a different thread. I was holding the key to the run position, and pressing the clutch, on the 3rd time that I pressed and released, the "horn beeped" and car started but I was having the "NO COMM" issue. The same day, I read the above listed codes with the DIC, shut the car off, waited a few hours until it cooled off outside, then restarted the car without issue and all problems disappeared.

It almost seems as the ignition lock, doesn't recognize my key. The FOB doesn't work and was told by the owner that it didn't work. Is it possible that the heat is causing the metal in the ignition lock to expand, but when the car cools off, the metal goes back to original size and then it recognizes the key? I am not sure that is even possible, but it is just a thought.

I will do this again when I get home today, as it is supposed to be hot again today, and I will report back with any issues that I have.

 

Like I had mentioned I’d remove whatever module allows you to bypass the clutch switch and turn off TC…also it’s a good idea to get the battery load tested….This may be a BCM issue (security light and maybe a VTD issue) since you did have a U1064 at one point…unfortunately no magic fix for this one…can be many things !!

 

If the only variable is outside temperature I would suggest moving to Alaska !!

 

The module for the TCS auto turn off was removed. It was a little cloudy and overcast when I got off work today. The car did start without issue (codes). But I did have to turn the key to the start position (not turning it to crank) 3 times, before the gauges lit up and swept and allowed me to start. I did remove the module to turn off the TCS, just a small module plugged into the TCS connector under the TCS button, It was apparently designed by the previous owner and patented. I have been unable to locate the module to disable the clutch switch for start as of right now. I have messaged the previous owner and am awaiting a reply.

When I attempted to start the car today, the car was "dinging" as normal as soon as I put the key in the ignition ( the door was open) and when I turned the key to any other position the "dinging" stopped. I did have to turn the key back and forth 3 times before it recognized the key and the gauges swept across the gauge cluster and the gauge cluster lit up.

The "security" light seemed to be just fine and I had no other issues today at all other than what I mentioned above.

 

Bump....car is now totally dead. Battery is 12.48V on a volt meter. Key had to be removed and turned to on position 2 times before it recognized and the "gauges swept", but car would not start or attempt to start. It has rained the past 2 days. I checked and I did not see any water under the battery or under the hood anywhere. I removed the battery tray and the PCM is completely dry. The floor boards are dry. I am still at a total loss. Any help or guidance would be extremely helpful.

 

***Update***
After the car not doing anything yesterday. I started the car this afternoon, but when I opened the door, there was no "security" light illuminated. I put the key in the ignition and turned the key to start. It did nothing, I removed the key put the key back in the ignition, the door ding started, but still no "security" light. When I turned the key to the start position, the horn beeped briefly then the car started without issue. I am still at a total loss of what to do. Any help or assistance would be appreciated.