I’ve been reading a bunch of posts but I’m not sure what to do. I’ve had the vett for 8 months, this is the first issue I’m having with the clutch.
The pedal gets stuck and needs a nudge to have the pedal return to the top.. and the other day I hopped into the car to move it really quick.. I didn’t let the car warm up or anything just cranked the engine and threw it in gear to quickly move it and the pedal got stuck to the floor and it wouldn’t come out of reverse.. I had to shut off the car and then I could put it in neutral. The fluid level is good, though it does look dirty. Any ideas? I’m nervous.

 

I'm not sure. The car has 72K on the clock, and the maintenance history I have, has no record of clutch work. I drove it to work this morning. The pedal is definitely "sticky" (as the darn thing needed a nudge to return) and I did notice that the clutch was fine most of the time, but a few moments the clutch didnt want to disengage or reengage but near the floor.. I gave the clutch a few pumps and it seemed to help. Weird

 

You can try the "ranger method" to bleed the fluid. Some people report it helps but you probably won't have much luck because the problem isn't the fluid the seals in the hydraulics are gone from age and mileage. Make sure you get the master and slave replaced as a pair and have a remote bleeder installed at the same time.

 

Just get a tick M/S around here people have 99% fix.

 

Thank you all for your valuable input. I did the ranger method today (cause its cheap and super easy so why not) I'm going to drive it around and see what that does, and I'm pretty sure that won't remedy the problem but worth a shot. Quoted $2500 from a reputable shop in the area, for clutch, master and slave replacements. I'll keep you posted on whats happens either way. Thanks again.

 

Well after a very uncomfortable ride to work, I can say that it didnt do a damn thing. My pedal is basically on the floor and i have to "pump" the clutch pedal and prey I can get it in and out of gear. It almost feels like the master cylinder is stuck and wont allow the clutch pedal to retract half the time.

 

Well, My pedal was stuck to the floor. It would only go in and out of gear with the engine off. I'm writing this up because I didn't find exactly what I was looking for in the forums. I needed to replace the master cylinder, and had 2 choices: Replace with an oem replacement, or the TICK performance. There is a comprehensive write up about replacing with a TICK, but not too much info on just an oem replacement. The steps are almost the same though.
Remove the clip under the dash holding the master cylinder to the clutch pedal.
Jack up the car, remove front drivers wheel and wheel well.
Remove all fluid from the reservoir
Remove 2 clips holding the reservoir.
At the tip of the old master cylinder, remove the cotter pin, and remove the metal dowel that is holding the tubing in place, and slide out the tubing from the master cylinder.
Turn the whole cylinder clockwise (towards you) about 90º or a 1/4 of a turn and pull directly out of the firewall.
The reservoir will pull down from the top of the engine compartment.
Remove the reservoir from the tubing, and reassemble to the new master cylinder.
Stick the new cylinder through the firewall, push and rotate 90º counter clockwise (away from you) to lock in place.
Reassemble the tubing to the end of the master cylinder.
Don't forget the small gasket that was included, that goes in-between the new cylinder and the tubing.
Slide in the dowel, and cotter pin.
Reattach the 2 clips holding the reservoir to the firewall, reinstall the clip to marry the cylinder rod to the clutch pedal.
Fill half way with DOT 3 or 4. Pump the clutch pedal about 40 times.
You will see bubbles rise into the reservoir and the fluid start to go down. Keep adding fluid (maintaining about half way in the reservoir). you will feel the pedal get stiffer, and will hear the slave cylinder engaging and disengaging as you move the pedal in and out. You should have someone helping you. You should keep pumping until you don't see any more bubbles rising. I recommend having your fluid flushed, but you'll have to get under the car and drop a bunch of stuff to reach the bleeder, unless you have a remote bleeder already installed. I am planning to have the fluid changed asap just in case there is any air in the lines, or the fluid remains dirty.
I know this seems trivial to write, but I was trying hard to find just these simple directions and couldn't. I hope this helps anyone who is having any issues.

 

Did it work? all better??

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...d-resluts.html
My old link is just showing ads. If this link doesn't work, google ls1 drill mod

 

Yes, so far so good! I hope it stays this way, as the part was $45 and it took 1hr to change.