When I go to insert the key or start the car it always says "service traction sys" | "service abs" | "service active hndlg"
It also shows these codes under my DIC when I search it for any issues. I am curious to know what each of these DIC codes mean and what all part(s) it will take to fix them.

10- PCM No Codes

28-TCS 3 Codes
1). C1235 H C
2). C1283 H
3). C1293 H

40-BCM 2 Codes
1). B2721 H
2). B2723 H

58-SDM No Codes

60-IPC 3 Codes
1). B0521 H
2). V1255 H
3). V1160 H

80-Radio

99-HVAC 2 Codes
1). V1160 H
2). B0361 H C

A0 - LDMC 4 Codes
1). V1255 H
2). V1064 H
3). V1016 H
4). V1096 H

A1 - RDCM No Codes

A6 - SCM No Codes

B0 - RFA No Codes

Based upon these codes that it shows what all is wrong with this car and what needs to be fixed on it asap without delay, also what can be fixed later.
I have been experiencing voltage drop issues with this car for about three years with this car. I have had to replace 3 alternators and 4 batteries, because of it. Do any of these codes explain what is causing it?

To explain the sitation:
1). The drivers side door locks and windows function randomly, I can fix the issue temporarily by opening and closing the door again several times. Then they will work/
2). The car sometimes has no lights or power to the dash at all when I get in it after getting off work. I usually fix this quickly by pulling the key waiting thirty seconds closing and re-opening the door then pressing the door locks again, then after waiting 30 seconds I try inserting the key again. After several times of doing this the car will finally start and the lights on the dash will turn on. I am not at all sure why this works, but I can tell you for certain that it does. The starter will then kick over and the vehicle will run normally. What could possibly be causing all of these issues I have described below based upon the codes that its reporting?
3). Sometimes the radio is very late to turn on.
4). Sometimes the door switches and window switches are late to turn on.
5). Sometimes the left hand turn signal does not illuminate on the dash at all, othertimes it works totally fine. Its totally random when it happens.
6). Sometimes when I swap the turn signal bulb it causes the lights to flash quickly, other times they flash normally.
7). Sometimes the security light stays on solid when I look at the dash even after I have started the car and started driving it. I don't think this is supposed to stay on. I could swear it used to turn off when the car was started. Also sometimes when I goto open the door with the key the lights inside the car will not turn on before I open the door setting off the alarm. The security light staying on when driving is random and the alarm going off with the key being used to get in the car is also pretty random. I had tried several key fob's, but the alarm would randomly start going off so long as their was batteries in the key fob. So I now only use the key to get in the vehicle since I can't use a key fob with the car.
8). Sometimes the door switches have no power at all. I usually fix this by opening the door again and reshutting it or I wait until the car has enough juice to let the door switches operate how they should. Usually the ability to use the door switches is 9). delayed by about 1-3 minutes before the door can be locked or windows rolled up/down, but its so much faster to open and shut the door again. I don't really understand why this happens at all.
10). Othertimes it requires opening and shutting the door again either once or several times, but they will eventually work again.

Other issues:
11). The A/C blows just fine, but it does not blow really cold air at all. I have checked the recharge gauge and its at 45 in the green zone.
12). Very slight gas smell inside the car for 1-2 days after each refuel. Filler door not properly closed?
13). Trunk leaks very slightly into corners on each side, Moulding above drivers side door for water channel leaks causing headliner to get wet sometimes.
14). Windows fog up due to leaks and in winter while running defrost the water just beads up all over the windshield.
15). E-Brake does not grab very tight at all. It pulls up and rachets fine, but it won't hold the car in place very well unless I really pull it all way up with alot of pressure.

The car is a 2001 Z06 Corvette Manual Transmission, so its 20 years old.
It has a LS7 Cam, a Custom Borla ATAK exhaust, Headers, High Flow Cats, A cold air induction kit, and a tune for max performance.

I have the car going to my local chevrolet dealer for a full diagnosis on 08-16-2021, but I am curious if anyone knows what could be causing all of these issues. The car has had to have 3 brand new oem valero alternators and 4 brand new batteries now in 3 years. I have put alot of money into the car, but even after all of that it now has all of the issues listed above.

 

There are 2 electrical connectors in the door wiring accordion. The female pins are probably loose. I think they're causing most of your electrical issues.

 

 

I forgot about this one.
16). The left headlight gear grinds for about 3-5 seconds whenever I close the popup headlights.

I will definately check the two pins in the accordion when I get home from work tonight. If there is anythingelse you think it might be, please let me know. Also should I use any grease or cleaner for a better connection on the pins?
Thanks again.

 

The gear is a none problem there is a brass gear kit u can buy.

 

There are two connectors, one contains pins and one contains sockets, you have to use a small flat blade screwdriver to expand the metal tabs of the sockets.

 

Just an update for you guys...
I just got the RR Wheel Speed sensor replaced - No more TCS errors.
If I just slightly bump the wires in the door accordion the whole door panel will turn off.

This is what my door panel looked like when they opened it.
Could this result in a voltage drain if the door panel is malfunctioning constantly?

 

They could not make heads or tails out of what wire the twist connectors go into. So I am taking it to a car audio specialist on monday. To make sure all of the wiring is fixed once and for all.
As you can see the MDF speaker plates expanded big time for some reason. Those speaker mounting plates were originally 1/2 MDF or 5/8 MDF.
They will install new speaker mounting plates too on monday.

As far as C1235, the wire was badly frayed and cut since it had fell off the clip and rubbed up against the wheel severing the connection to the right rear speed sensor.