I previously posted this problem I am having putting my 2002 Z06 into reverse. I referenced the MGW short shifter kit that is installed as the likely culprit. However...

In July 2021 I bought my Z06 from a dealer who said a short shift kit was already installed in the car by the prior owner, which was done by a shop, not the owner. The dealer said the car goes into reverse but only after it "pops" into gear after a slight hesitation. While true, the problem is a little more dire than that.

First, let's rule out the human factor-- me. I've been driving manual cars for over 40 years. Currently, my "other" car is a 2001 Viper GTS, so yes, I know how to shift a manual transmission. Here's the problem I'm experiencing:

• When not moving and with the brake pedal engaged, upon putting the car in reverse it doesn't quite engage reverse gear completely. It's only when I begin to let off the clutch and the car begins to move that a slight "pop" is felt as it goes fully into reverse-- sometimes! When it doesn't the most gawd awful gear grinding is heard and felt. Grinding gears drives me nuts!
  

The MGW shifter kit was installed fairly recently with just a few hundred miles since installation by the previous owner having taken it to a shop to get that done. I suspected the install was done wrong. So, this weekend I removed it, inspected it, and reinstalled it. The shifter looks pristine. After reinstallation I am having the same problem. So, it's not the MGW shifter.

The second thing I did was to install the anti-venom kit. I installed one washer. I did not expect that to solve the 'not going into reverse' problem, but only to lessen the tightness of the MGW shifter. I might install one more washer as it seems to feel the same.

One member suggested I might need a new reverse solenoid. His suggestion was retracted saying that it might be the issue if I were unable to get into reverse, which I can. Soooooooo... any help from you techies or guys with experience with this problem is much appreciated. Getting into reverse properly and not grinding gears is a must. Thanks!

Steve

 

I have had trouble with reverse gear since buying the C5 Vert in 2014. I changed from a OME shifter to a MGW but still have the same problem. My work around; I first put the shiftier in neutral, wiggle it, then put it in reverse. Seems to work for me, most of the time without bad words.

 

Put it in 2nd first..................then reverse

 

It's sounding like reverse synchro issues. In general reverse sucks on the T56. I had major issues getting reverse and ultimately rebuilt all of reverse gears/synchros in the transmission. Long read but lots of info as I was figuring things out: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rse-1st-2.html
Highlights on the parts I changed out for reverse: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1601856462

Temporary band-aid, and the problem will worsen. By putting it in a different gear prior to going into reverse, it's using the better synchros of non-reverse gears to brake (slow down) the input shaft so that the inferior reverse synchro can have a greater chance at success.

 

It seems too many C5 owners have experienced similar issues getting into reverse with no apparent solution. Unless it's necessary, I certainly don't want to begin a transmission rebuilt project. So, I'll try some simple steps first including the following:

1. Change the transmission fluid (something I'll be doing anyway)
2. Check the reverse lockout solenoid fuse and giggle it to ensure a good connection
3. Replace the reverse lockout solenoid
4. Take a deep breath

Peace fellow wrench turners.

 

You can see for yourself how the solinoid blocks reverse. With the key off switch through the gears and then try to shift into reverse. It should not go into reverse but 5th and 6th should be easy to hit. Do the same thing with the key on engine not running it should be easy to get into reverse and feel it go fully into reverse. You will then be able to feel the reverse gate when going from 4th to 5th and do an "accidental" shift into reverse. Hopefully after this you'll be able to tell what it's supposed to feel like when shifting through all the gears.

 

OK, that's an interesting procedure to follow. But what does it prove? That the solenoid works but still doesn't allow one to shift normally into reverse?

 

I think there's too much emphasis on the reverse lockout solenoid. All it does is make it difficult to enter the reverse GATE. If you can go past 5/6 easily into reverse gate, then the reverse lockout solenoid isn't a problem. Once in reverse gate, pushing forward to enter reverse gear has nothing to do with the solenoid.

If you want to test whether or not the reverse lockout solenoid is causing a problem, it's free and quick to do so. Just simply remove if from the transmission. (this is in addition to C5MSG2004Vert's suggested test).

FWIW, I think your steps are on the right path. As mentioned in my previous post I went through all your steps and many more, and transmission rebuild was the only way to fix it: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1603919188

 

It will tell you if the car is mechanically able to go all the way into reverse with the engine off and to see if the lockout is getting in the way. If the engine is running and it doesn't go into reverse then it probably the synchros or clutch not disengaging fully. Since you are experienced with a manual you should be able to tell if it going all the way into gear.

 

OP- below is my response from the other day to your post in C5 General. The shift fork and reverse popping out issue is a common one in the 2001-2002 Z06's. GM upgraded the shift forks from aluminum to steel in early 2003 models forward.

You likely have a shift fork pad thats broken off and or bad syncros. Either way the tranny will have to come out and surgey will be required.

There are some guys that have found a cheap DIY fix by machining the forks down and shimming with a washer. Not advised but done by some with success. Assuming they did this due to budget restrictions. (I can't think of any other reasons). None the less I would do it right or pay someone else to...before it gets worse and creates bigger problems for you. Upgrade the aluminum forks for the improved steel ones.

Originally Posted by Old School View Post
When you're in neutral is the gear lever pretty much vertical? I don't see how the shifter would cause grinding in reverse. It's not like the old muncie/saginaw trans with a separate linkage for the reverse gear.

all these reccomendations to replace the shifter but no one questioning the cause?

To the OP... First you should try shifting into 6th first then Reverse to see if it engages easier...before you spend money to replace what is likely not the cause of your issue.

It could be the shifting fork which has a piece of plastic on each of the arms. It's a known and common problem for the fork to break off one of those pieces. Then when you try to shift into reverse the gear can't be fully engaged.

It could also be your shift linkage from the shifter to the transmission has too much play in it. Pop the shift boot ring and boot and check the bolts that hold down the shift plate. See if that's loose.

The shifter you have is likely not the root cause of your issue. Of course if preferred you want a new one then get it anyway, but don't be surprised or let down if that doesn't solve the problem

 

In my experience, this only applies to 3rd/4th gear shift fork. My 2001 Z06 had/has a cast iron/steel reverse fork.

I agree that this is very likely a contributing problem. When I had issues getting into reverse, my transmission didn't have functional shift pads AND the reverse synchro slider's points (that should be sharp) were nice and worn down.

I'm one of those "guys": https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1601856462
Yes it is a relatively inexpensive fix to improve engagement of the reverse synchro. What about this leads you to believe it's a "budget" fix? The intent is to improve the slop that many T56 transmissions (across many different cars, not just Corvettes) came with from the factory. Do you have a better way to do this? Only other way I can think of is to machine an entirely new reverse shift fork... but that doesn't exist on the market and would easily cost hundreds of dollars to make. You can call me cheap, but this is a very effective solution.

 

I'm having the same issues with reverse. I just posted in another thread a few post above this one🤔 looks like lots of us are having this issue. I agree it's internal in the transmission. There's some good info in here about worn shift forks/pads and synchros. I agree.

 

Yes, aware it's not just the C5 T-56. LS1tech is littered with guys having this issue with their F bodies. That's the first time I had come across the DIY washer repair.

Thank you for confirming where I was mistaken, and where my assumptions were directionally correct. Hard to diagnose issues and site remedies via a written conversation. I also appreciate the clarity on why you took the approach you did.

The OP should consider following your lead as you have the first hand knowledge on the issue and DIY fix.

 

I'm fairly certain it's not the clutch but a synchro issue. I knew nothing about the shift fork pad or any other part that is prone to failure. This is looking more and more like a transmission repair job to correct. Oh well. I've done quite a bit of mechanical work over the years, but not breaking into the guts of a transmission. Looks like my learning curve is about to get some exercise.

 

I appreciate your reply and all the other replies as well. I already removed the MGW shifter, inspected it, and reinstalled it. All is good and tight. So, it's NOT the shifter. I'm ready to exclude the reverse lockout solenoid as a possible culprit. It seems like it's the synchro and/or fork pad issue. I presume buying parts to do a partial rebuild are readily available, yes? Can you or anyone identify the part numbers to order? Yes, I can look it up but it's helpful for those with experience and knowledge to identify the right parts and anything else highly recommended to replace while the transmission is dissected.

 

I was confident it wasn't going to be the MGW. That would be too easy. I was hopeful for you, but my gut said otherwise.

Not sure of part number on the shift fork pads... but TickPerformance.com has them. Both OE and the Bronze upgrade. They also had a good parts diagram for the transmission parts.

Good luck!

 

I keep pretty detailed service records, lol. Below is an excerpt from my spreadsheet. These parts are generally available, but last year I had a heck of a time getting some of the reverse parts. In fact my C5 sat for an extra month or so due to the challenge in sourcing some of them.

FWIW I didn't bother touching any tapered bearings (except for mainshaft small taper bearing that broke on removal) because I didn't want to deal with the extra level of complexity that goes into end play shimming. I think it turned out okay...

 

You can say that again! I've kept similar records on my 1985 V-Max 1200 over the years. My C5 file is a bit of a mix across three C5s. I keep hard copies of all documents and reciepts, as well as packaging for most parts. (Same for my 5 other cars)

I thought I was thorough. You sir are at the top of your/our game!

 

I REALLY appreciate the comments, info, and recommendations. I have the following questions if someone would be kind enough to answer them:

1. Is there only one transmission fork or are there dedicated ones for each gear?
2. If only one I presume it makes sense to replace it with a steel one, what was used in the C6s, yes?
3. With only basic tools is it straightforward to remove and replace the fork?
4. Does the fork come with the pads or do those have to be purchased separately?

I have a QuickJack lift in my garage and something better than standard tools. I can turn a wrench and even enjoy it-- most of the time. I'm just trying to ascertain as to whether I can handle repairing my transmission expecting only that the fork pads are broken thus causing my issue shifting into reverse. Thanks!

 

If you're interested in tearing apart your transmission, I'd highly recommend watching multiple T56 transmission rebuild videos on Youtube. There's a lot to learn and just seeing what they do and listening to what they say can provide tremendous help.

There are 4 shift forks in the T56: 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, and reverse. The 3/4 shift fork was made aluminum and you can "upgrade" to the Viper's steel/cast iron version (which is what I did, shown in my parts list).
Generally speaking there should be no reason to replace shift forks. I bought a replacement reverse shift fork just to see if my old one was bent, and it wasn't.

Shift fork pads are typically plastic and it's common to buy them as a complete kit or individually. Each shift fork has 2 pads, though they all use unique pads expect 5/6 and reverse use the same ones. You can also buy brass/bronze pads for extra money, and these usually have tighter tolerances leading to improved shifting. HOWEVER, for a daily driver they are likely to wear out faster than plastic (although they won't break like plastic). I chose 5/6 brass pads since I believe they won't wear as fast for those gears.

I guarantee that broken reverse fork pads won't be your transmission's only issue. The reverse synchro ring will surely be worn (even if it looks okay), as well as the synchro slider and possibly reverse gear.

In my opinion, if you can manage to remove the transmission, you ought to be able to disassemble it. In my list of parts you'll notice "Wilde Tool G409P Lock Ring Pliers" which I bought specifically to deal with the snap rings used in the T56. Other than a hydraulic press (with press plates) and a custom transmission stand I believe that was the only special tool I didn't already have on-hand.

Of course, if you do end up removing the transmission you'll have to decide whether you're going to only deal with fixing reverse, or go for a full synchro rebuild (like I did; my 1st gear was also an issue). Conceivably you don't need to remove the transmission to partially disassemble it to fix reverse.

Also I did all of this work in my garage on Quickjacks.