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I read a post recently about doing a HB swap. They talked about the usual stuff involved and dropping the cradle a bit to remove the steering rack. One guy posted that a side benefit of lowering the cradle was that it allowed to NOT remove the rack to do a cam swap. Hmmm.
I asked him if he had a link to anything more about this (he called it a 'fun fact') but he went radio dark.
Is this really possible??
TIA
I read a post recently about doing a HB swap. They talked about the usual stuff involved and dropping the cradle a bit to remove the steering rack. One guy posted that a side benefit of lowering the cradle was that it allowed to NOT remove the rack to do a cam swap. Hmmm.
I asked him if he had a link to anything more about this (he called it a 'fun fact') but he went radio dark.
Is this really possible??
TIA
There is a very thorough write up in cam swap on LS1Howto.com. Their write-up includes removal of the rack. I've only done it with the motor out of the car.
This was posted by Pierrel in the C6 section a few years back:
Originally Posted by pierrel
I'm one of those people. Changed my camshaft a couple of weeks ago without moving the rack. Changed to an ATI damper last year, same procedure. Need basic tools and 2 jacks, or 1 jack and 1 jack stand.
Should add before,that my c6z is on coil overs.
Remove engine mount nut from the subframe and lift engine with a jack as much as possible. If you've only got 1 jack, place a jack stand under and remove the jack.
Loosen the rear subframe nut as much as you can but keep them in place. Remove the front subframe nuts, watch yourself as the subframe will fall down at the front! Then pull it down as much as you can/think you need.
Now you should have enough room to pull the balancer, oil pump and front cover off. If it's still a tight fit you might have to remove the lower shock mounts to the control arms. I believe that's two 13mm bolts on each side.
Just make sure when you're putting everything back together, that the plastic seal on the steering column goes into the rubber grommet on the firewall. You will need to use the jack to lift the front of the subframe up. Be careful, check that's nothing is in the way as you raise the frame.
I read a post recently about doing a HB swap. They talked about the usual stuff involved and dropping the cradle a bit to remove the steering rack. One guy posted that a side benefit of lowering the cradle was that it allowed to NOT remove the rack to do a cam swap. Hmmm.
I asked him if he had a link to anything more about this (he called it a 'fun fact') but he went radio dark.
Is this really possible??
TIA
I read that post too and thought the same thing. Both the engine and rack are bolted to the cradle. The only way to leave the rack in place is to use a jack stand under the engine and unbolt the engine mounts, like posted above.
interesting stuff. Thanks for the replies. In my case I will be swapping front shocks for C6Z's and adding 3/8" shorter engine mounts so I might get lucky?. I guess it will be a game day decision. Hope to get started on it soon.
I did my cam job without dropping the cradle. The rack came out easy with the radiator removed. It comes out the drivers side after you work it up the passenger side.
I did cam swap lowering cradle and NOT touching the rack...
remove front cradle bolts, loosen rear cradle bolts all the way, remove engine mount bolts. Jack up on oil pan to raise motor (watch the intake hitting the FW/wiper cowl) and let cradle hang/swing down as much as possible in front. HB, timing cover and cam can all be done. I would rather remove the intake manifold to gain more lifting room than deal with the PS rack...
This was done on a lift at a shop.
Last edited by smitty2919; Aug 27, 2021 at 06:01 PM.
I would rather remove the intake manifold to gain more lifting room than deal with the PS rack...
This was done on a lift at a shop.
Amen to THAT! I have all kinds of other stuff to 'do' in this project. I agree on the Rack. The intake will be off to fit a LSA Blower so I guess I'll have lots of swing clearance? I guess I'll learn as I go?
I LOVE this place - SUPER helpful and generous with time & talent.
JS
The hardest part about getting the PS rack out is getting the power steering lines off the rack.
That's why I don't want to do it... Maybe i'm just a *****?
I'm following the lead of Mr Black - but his car was already a Hot Rod. Mine is BONE stock so I have to make it a Hot Rod and THEN put a SC on it that was never intended to sit there. He's done a GREAT job with this whole swap. I still want to be the President of the Mr Black Fan Club. He's done everything right, taken his time, solved problems on his feet and DID IT!!
I just gotta get started - life has a way of getting in the way of projects. Like THAT'S new, huh?
I did cam swap lowering cradle and NOT touching the rack...
remove front cradle bolts, loosen rear cradle bolts all the way, remove engine mount bolts. Jack up on oil pan to raise motor (watch the intake hitting the FW/wiper cowl) and let cradle hang/swing down as much as possible in front. HB, timing cover and cam can all be done. I would rather remove the intake manifold to gain more lifting room than deal with the PS rack...
This was done on a lift at a shop.
I saw it done exactly this way at a Chevy dealer over 10 years ago......
I saw it done exactly this way at a Chevy dealer over 10 years ago......
At a dealer and shops time is money. They find tricks to doing things quickly and easy. Don't do extra work if you don't have to. IMO the rack is "extra".
At a dealer and shops time is money. They find tricks to doing things quickly and easy. Don't do extra work if you don't have to. IMO the rack is "extra".
Exactly. I'm certain that's why the dealer did it this way. It's a PITA getting the hoses off the rack.....
That's why I don't want to do it... Maybe i'm just a *****?
I'm following the lead of Mr Black - but his car was already a Hot Rod. Mine is BONE stock so I have to make it a Hot Rod and THEN put a SC on it that was never intended to sit there. He's done a GREAT job with this whole swap. I still want to be the President of the Mr Black Fan Club. He's done everything right, taken his time, solved problems on his feet and DID IT!!
I just gotta get started - life has a way of getting in the way of projects. Like THAT'S new, huh?
Multiple ways to do just about any job, pick your poison. Life does have a way of getting in the way I have one sitting in my garage waiting on a clutch, going to do it at a friend's house once we get his on the the road. His car is our 6th engine out project on a C5 in 7 years.
A line wrench and some patience, the lines can be done. I very much recommend a C6 power steering pulley. It is stronger and makes the pump easier to get off.
Multiple ways to do just about any job, pick your poison. Life does have a way of getting in the way I have one sitting in my garage waiting on a clutch, going to do it at a friend's house once we get his on the the road. I very much recommend a C6 power steering pulley. It is stronger and makes the pump easier to get off.
Already have that pulley - Agree that it is much nicer because of the See-Thru design. The more I think about this - which is a REAL problem for me, I over think everything - I'll have the TT out to do a clutch. I should be able to wiggle the engine around and maybe lift it enough to do all the Front End / Top End work while its all disconnected. I really don't want to mess with that damn rack if I don't have to. I just gotta get in the zone and get started.
All great input - thank you all!!
Already have that pulley - Agree that it is much nicer because of the See-Thru design. The more I think about this - which is a REAL problem for me, I over think everything - I'll have the TT out to do a clutch. I should be able to wiggle the engine around and maybe lift it enough to do all the Front End / Top End work while its all disconnected. I really don't want to mess with that damn rack if I don't have to. I just gotta get in the zone and get started.
All great input - thank you all!!
I can do the same. Line wrenches to get the lines to the rack off and agreed with the post below. Move the rack to passenger side so the driver side is fully to the inside of the frame and then angle up out the drivers side above the car.
Originally Posted by feeder82
I did my cam job without dropping the cradle. The rack came out easy with the radiator removed. It comes out the drivers side after you work it up the passenger side.
It also helps to have a friend guide the tie rod ends between the frame and subframe.
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Cam swap, Easy way??
