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Hello All,
Im new here and have been reading threads for several weeks now and I want to share my frustrations LOL. 4 months ago I purchased a 1999 FRC with 134k, it was in very nice shape for the years it was. In the last 4 months its left me stranded twice. And many times just wont stay running. I've replaced the battery and alternator to no avail. The problem seems to come and go. It starts every time but wont stay running. It acts like it ran out of gas, but its has a full tank. I've checked the fuel pump its working, checked all the fuses and started cleaning the ground connections. still having the same issue. yesterday I tried again to start it and it wouldnt start so just for fun I tried the other key I had and it started. I started it several times and it worked perfectly so I guess i needed a new spare key. This morning I took the working key and tried to start it again and it wouldnt start. Going nuts here Maybe the ignition switch? any thoughts?
Ignition switches have been know to cause all manner of different electrical issues in a C5. I replaced mine 5 - 6 years ago to address an HVAC issue. It solved the problem. However, this year, I had to replace the lock cylinder and keys due to an intermittent no-start condition. Kicked myself for not replacing them when I replaced the switch.
My recommendation is to learn from my error - replace both. I'd be willing to bet that will solve your issue.
Welcome to the forum! Sorry you're having problems. From what you've said, I suspect there is an issue with the resistor on your "spare" key. The VATS system in the car will not allow the car to start unless the resistor on the key is the correct value. If it isn't the resistor, the VATS system itself might be having issues. You can try purchasing and installing a VATS bypass. My other guess would be a clogged fuel line. Try running a few bottles of Techron, and see if that helps. I hope this has been helpful. Post up some pics of your car. We'd love to see it. Good luck with your issue.
So what you have now is a “crank no start” ??…if you do look at the Tach and see if it moves when cranking the engine…it may be a faulty crank sensor…you will not get spark or injector pulse…you could just pull the plug wire off the coil pack and keep it close to a good ground…see if the spark jumps…checking for injector pulse requires at least a 12 volt test light..best way to diagnose without changing a bunch of parts if get a scope on it and connect it a fuel injector, coil pack, fuel pump, and the crank sensor signal wire and see what’s dropping out when it quits !!..oh, and welcome to the Forum !!
My first thought would be the fuel filter, you should check what fuel pressure you have at the fuel rail, you can rent one at most auto parts stores. Fuel pressure should be between 55 and 60 psi.
Last night I pulled the codes and hopefully I found the direction to take to get my Vette back up and running. I'm hoping the problem lies in the switch, one of the codes was for the Theft deterrent which cuts the gas flow after starting. Exactly what's its doing. So ill be taking that switch out cleaning it and see what it does, if no luck I'm getting a new switch, tumbler set and keys and go from there.
You will have to determine what resistance your present key pellet is, there are 15 different resistance values. Take a DVM and measure your current keys resistor pellet if you buy new keys.
Good Morning All,
It seems the saga never ends, Ive been without my C5 for several weeks now, still having starting issues that seem to change daily. I've replace the ignition switch, tumbler and key with new ones from the Dealer. after installing them turned the key and nothing. then repeatedly tried then it started, repeated to start for several times then stopped starting, then it would start again. finally tried driving it and as soon as I put it in gear it would stall. Ran the DIC for codes and had more of the same including NO COMM for the BCM which Ive had all along. Also there seems to be a Parasitic drain on the battery. The battery is new and now it went dead for a second time. The only after market item in the car is a radio which I disconnected to see if that was causing any of the problems. Im wondering if the BCM is the cause with not only the starting issues but the parasitic drain as well, Ive read its one of the symptoms of a bad BCM. Any thoughts, your help would be greatly appreciated ..
If you think it's the BCM you can either pull the BCM fuses in the IP fusebox...9,13,23,25...charge the battery and let it sit for 24 hours and recheck the battery voltage or remove the BCM connectors and do the same...for any "No Comm" with a module checking that modules power and grounds is the first thing that needs to be done !!
The thing to check is the TDR relay located above the BCM,does it click each and every time the key is turned to the start position, check for this and post back.