Hello fellas. Moderators please move if in wrong section. Thanks for technical information in advanced. I picked up a low mileage 03 zo6. I'm about to be doing an engine upgrade and clutch components upgrade. I know all the ins and outs of 98-02 fbodys and trailblazer ss as far as heater hoses and such hard to get to parts that can fail. I am an automotive tech and like putting parts that are hard to get to on while in surgery. Any common parts that fail or need attention with it down this far?

 

I think he means he'll have the engine out of the car, what parts should be replaced that are normally difficult to access with the engine in the way.

 

You hit the nail on the head sir. Ty for explaining what I couldn't

 

Vettes4life please don't take this the wrong way. I've been wrenching on cars for 41 plus years. Case certified 21 plus for a living. I'm just trying to replace common hard to get to failures while in pieces. Have u had a c5 engine out to do repairs to yours? If so what did u replace? Not trying to ruffle feathers sir. Just simply looking for information from some knowledgeable folks who have had this experience. Car has 26k miles. Thanks again for information.

 

There's nothing wrong. Engine will be out for more cubes and boost and clutch system. I know I need fuel system with supporting mods. Engine will be out. Wanted to maintenance hard to get to parts. I understand supporting mods for strength. Maintenance maintenance maintenance. Not everything. I know parts fail. But there are hard to get to parts on different vehicles. Ac compressor on trailblazer ss. Heater hoses on 4th gen fbody. And so on and so on.

 

I would use 243 heads not 241's

 

ECS tran/diff cage Pfadt motor mounts Pfadt diff mount
There is a guy F/B that makes copies of the Pfadt stuff alot cheaper

 

And as always, no matter how well you plan, something will be missed and throw a wrench in your plans.

 

DEFINITELY!! 241 heads are a DOWNGRADE from the 243s, which he should already have!! No, no!! Also, I don't understand VFLs recommendation about sending out the ABS module to ABS fixer, if the ABS system is functioning correctly. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!!

 

Pinning the crank is OK, but it's generally done because the engine is in the car! I'm older school, and if it was me, I'd have the crank keyed, along with the balancer. If you pin it, it may make things more difficult to re-pin the balancer by itself, should you ever need a new one. DEFINITELY get new lifter trays, should you decide to keep the OEM lifters. Get a good valve job while heads are off. I'd recommend forged pistons if going with boost. Mahle or Diamond are both good. A Melling HV/standard pressure oil pump would be a good idea. If you want the heads ported, and want a different intake, I'd call Tony Mamo or Brian Tooley for their recommendations. A Callies forged crank and Callies or Oliver rods, and a double roller Rollmaster timing chain. I'd think your torque tube would be OK, due to the low miles. A remote clutch master cylinder bleeder would be a good idea, along with an upgraded clutch. An oil pressure sender relocation kit would be a good idea. As long as we're relocating, a coil relocation setup is nice, too. There are a lot of cam experts around. 2 good ones that come to mind are Pat G., and Allan Futral. Sounds like a fun, beast of a build, and best of luck to you with it. Please keep us posted.......

 

While all that is out, consider putting in a heat shielding of some sort in the tunnel to keep your interior cooler. A lot of heat comes up through the center of the car without it.
If it were me, and all that was out, I'd probably go over and replace all the control arms and bushings all around, replace any coolant hoses since it's easy to get to, put heat sleeving on areas that could use a little extra protection.