Posting for a friend. He just just purchased and drove home a 2003 that was only driven once this year. Kept clean and dry in a garage. 55K miles.

Next day started it and drove to gas station. While in line, he turned it off and restarted it TWICE when inching forward in line. The third time it wouldn't start. Pushed it to the pumps and filled the tank. Then when it still wouldn't start, pushed it off to the side. 15 minutes later, it started. Drove 2 miles home - but 3 blocks from home, going 25 mph, it stalled. Couldn't get it started. Called AAA to carry it home. My heart goes out to him since it's the newest Vette that he's ever owned and the weather was sunny today (in Seattle)!!!

Found 17 codes in Diagnostic. All marked "H".
BCM, RDCM, LDCM and SCM.
In researching what they are, I figured the BCM was most critical. (True?)
BCM Codes were B2578 and B2809.

One final data point. The wife said that when they tried to start it (after it stalled on the way home) that she heard a loud "whoosing" sound.

The battery is charged (VOM reads 12.6 V) and the starter turns over at normal speed. No gas smell in the garage.

CODES RETRIEVED (all were H, no C's):

BCM (Body Control Module)
B2578 RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL MONITOR CIRCUIT Short to Voltage
B2809 <description not found>

RDCM (Right Door Control Module)
B2283 12V POWER FEED #1 FAULT Battery Fault
B2285 12V POWER FEED #2 FAULT Battery Fault
B2263 MIRROR HORIZONTAL POSITION SENSOR FAULT Horiz Position Sensor Fit
B2265 MIRROR VERTICAL POSITION SENSOR FAULT Horiz Position Sensor Fault
U1255 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH XXX Serial Data Line Malfunction
U1064 NORMAL SOFTWARE FUNCTION, HISTORY STATUS UPON IGNITION CYCLING Loss of Comms with BCM
U1016 NORMAL SOFTWARE FUNCTION, HISTORY STATUS UPON IGNITION CYCLING Loss of Comms with PCM
U1096 NORMAL SOFTWARE FUNCTION, HISTORY STATUS UPON IGNITION CYCLING Loss of Comms with IPC

LDCM (Left Door Control Module)
B2282 12V POWER FEED #1 FAULT Battery Fault
B2284 12V POWER FEED #2 FAULT Battery Fault
U1255 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH XXX Serial Data line Malfunction
U1064 NORMAL SOFTWARE FUNCTION, HISTORY STATUS UPON IGNITION CYCLING Loss of Comms with BCM
U1016 NORMAL SOFTWARE FUNCTION, HISTORY STATUS UPON IGNITION CYCLING Loss of Comms with PCM
U1096 NORMAL SOFTWARE FUNCTION, HISTORY STATUS UPON IGNITION CYCLING Loss of Comms with IPC

SCM (Seat Control Module) (with AAB option)
B0851 BATTERY 1 OUT OF RANGE Battery out of Range

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
--Bill

 

Does it turn over when he tries to start it?

 

Yes, it turns over normally at what sounds like the normal speed. Just no attempt at starting and no gas, or fume smell.

 

A failing or failed ignition switch can generate a wild array of codes and a crank no start symptom.

First I would have the battery load tested, clean and tighten the battery terminal and cable connections. Battery side terminals should be tight-- 11 foot pounds-- but you can't get a torque wrench in there, so--tight.

Report back.

 

Okay. How difficult is it to remove the ignition switch?
I saw photos in another thread of the 1) bent tangs and 2) burnt contacts -- so I'm definitely leaning towards your suggestion.

UPDATE: After another two hours of research, I'm also going to check out the Fuel Pump relay (shorting two pins),
and I' will clean the grounding connections.

I think that I'm zeroing in on the problem(s).

 

Clear the codes and start from there.

 

Thanks. We did clear all of the codes (after documenting them). But after numerous attempts to start the car, there are NO new codes showing up.

Reminder - the starter is working (turning engine normally) but there is no spark (fuel?) that allows it to start.
And, no new codes to evaluate.

 

When you put ignition ON the electrical fuelpump shall build up fuelpressure on the fuelrail for 2 sec . Do you hear the pump ?
If yes , you need a gauge connected to schraedervalve to very the pressure value .

Do you see any rpm when you crank ,if not the cranksensor may be the issue ?

 

Here the 3 needed links, diagnosis, removal and rebuild of ignition switch:


diagnosis

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html



removal

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571067145-post107.html



repair procedure

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html


Quote:

 

As was mentioned listen if you can hear the fuel prime prime for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned on…if you hear it see if the Tach appears to move when you crank the engine over…this may point to a faulty crankshaft sensor..you will have no spark or injector pulse…you can pull a plug wire off the coil pack and see if the spark jumps to ground when cranking the engine…checking for injector pulse will require a 12 volt test light…if you don’t hear the fuel pump prime you can jump pins 87 and 30…see if the pump runs now. The 2 terminals to jump are in the below pic !!…if it doesn’t work swap the horn relay with the pump relay.

 

SUCCESS!!!
Just got it running! I'll post a full description later after I have lunch. (it's 5 pm and I've been B-u-s-y)

 

Two thumbs up.

 

The Fix?

 

SUCCESS!!!!
The quick answer is that it was the FUEL PUMP RELAY (no. 35) that was bad.
The test that led to it was when I switched the FOG LAMP RELAY (no. 39) with the Fuel Pump Relay.
After that switch the Fog Lights wouldn't go on. And then...... the car successfully started!!

Called Chevy Dealer and they didn't have any relay available. They directed me to O'Reilly's Auto Parts.
They had a relay from two different companies for $25 and $19. We bought them both and put one in the glove box. :-)

It was a good day.

 

Not sure if this is the right place to post I'm just looking for some responses. I swapped the wiring harness for my ls2 swapped c5 back in the end of June, and i havent had it running since. At first its because the instructions were terrible. But now ive been through every inch of that harness. Ohmed most of it out, and checked my sensor readings. Basically the car cranks fine. It will fire momentarily and then go back to cranking and it wont fire again without cycling the key. If you time it and put the pedal to the floor right as it fires( not before so it doesnt activate flood clear mode) it will sometimes sot there and sputter at like 400 rpm for a few seconds before lazily revving up all the way to neutral rev limit. 5k ish. Presumably misfiring, but i just changed my plug wires and it seems a lot smoother but still doing the same thing, just with less backfiring. It has fuel pressure. Maps mafs tps cam and crank sensors and ect sensors all seeming to read correctly. O2 sensors are sorta unknown because of the shitty app and bluetooth scanner i was using. But ive read they wouldn't cause a motor to outright not even idle. So basically, im lost, please if anyone has any ideas what could cause this unusually specific set of symptoms i cant find anywhere else on the internet. Please help.

 

Please post a NEW thread with your issue !!