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I always have the Service Ride Control message on the DIC at each start up. I have a constant and historical code from the RTD system C1717, that indicates RF Shock Absorber Solenoid (open circuit). Is there a possible fix for this. I pulled the RF wheel, and everything seems to be in place. I have cleared the codes both by button, and disconnecting the battery. Any Ideas out there?
Also I am getting no speed limitations caused by the malfunction. I'm new to Ride Control, as my C4 didn't have the feature, so I have no idea whether is working or not. If it is, its pretty subtle.
Last edited by SteveBougon; Oct 9, 2021 at 03:15 PM.
What do you mean by "everything seems to be in place" ??...a visual inspection only ??...you may have to go a little further...when the code says "open circuit" it's usually a wiring issue...I don't know if the PCM is looking at the power or ground circuit to throw that code...I see you were a "Thud" Crewchief so you should know your way around a voltmeter...The ESC (Electronic Suspension Control Module is located in that left little compartment in the trunk...with the key ON see if you have 12 volts at the light blue connector terminal wire...if not go right to the ESC and see if you have 12 volts at pin C12 on the C2 Connector which is a 32 pin connector (below) which is where it comes from...if you have 12 volts there but not at the shock you have a broken wire or bad connection...what grounds that circuit and makes the solenoid function is a PWM (pulse width modulated) ground from the ESC..I can't find anything about this DTC in the FSM, Mitchell or ALLDATA !!...I don't even have my ride control shocks anymore so I couldn't tell you if there is a certain resistance across the shock to be read.
What do you mean by "everything seems to be in place" ??...a visual inspection only ??...you may have to go a little further...when the code says "open circuit" it's usually a wiring issue...I don't know if the PCM is looking at the power or ground circuit to throw that code...I see you were a "Thud" Crewchief so you should know your way around a voltmeter...The ESC (Electronic Suspension Control Module is located in that left little compartment in the trunk...with the key ON see if you have 12 volts at the light blue connector terminal wire...if not go right to the ESC and see if you have 12 volts at pin C12 on the C2 Connector which is a 32 pin connector (below) which is where it comes from...if you have 12 volts there but not at the shock you have a broken wire or bad connection...what grounds that circuit and makes the solenoid function is a PWM (pulse width modulated) ground from the ESC..I can't find anything about this DTC in the FSM, Mitchell or ALLDATA !!...I don't even have my ride control shocks anymore so I couldn't tell you if there is a certain resistance across the shock to be read.
I don't remember any of that in the 105 Tech Orders, so I'll have to take your word for it. This is a bit more complicated than the Thud. I'll get to it and let you know how i make out. I'm sure I could take a 105 in the 1/4 mile.
Nice part about being a CC, you could call a specialist, and retire to the line truck.
Thanks for such a detailed post.
Last edited by SteveBougon; Oct 9, 2021 at 04:32 PM.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by SteveBougon
I've given that some thought. Outfit the whole car for the cost of one RCS shock.
With the price of that 1 shock you can upgrade the sway bars to the C6 Z51 bars and still have money left over.. Best of luck with what ever you decide to do
With the price of that 1 shock you can upgrade the sway bars to the C6 Z51 bars and still have money left over.. Best of luck with what ever you decide to do
Do you have to remove the RCS from the system to alleviate the codes if you refit with new shocks?
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Your going to need someone with access to a Tech2 to remove the RPO. Most any shop that works on GM cars or trucks may have one. Here are the steps to do it
1. Hook up Tech 2, turn car on, make sure module in the rear is plugged in. Do not unplug the rear module.
2. Use Tech 2 to delete the F45 option (F55 does not appear on the menu screen, use F45).
3. Save new configuration.
4. Do not turn car off, do not remove Tech 2. Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the grey connector (the widest one), leave any other plug(s) in. [leave the other 1 (F45) or 2 (F55) plugged in]
5. Turn off car, leave Tech 2 plugged in.
6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of car. [never plug them back in again, if you do the F45 turns on automatically]
7. Turn car on to verify the "max speed 80 mph" is gone.
8. Unplug Tech 2.