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Head-lights and blinkers

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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 03:01 PM
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Default Head-lights and blinkers

I have issues with my head lights and blinkers
i recently installed some led headlights light bulbs and a new oem blinker bulb and now my blinkers do not work and my head lights fully work but only go down when there on the “bright” setting
My hazards and brake lights still work but the blinkers don’t work when signaling only when the hazard button has been pressed do they properly turn on

if anyone has had the same issue and can help me ill try you’re ideas.

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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 03:49 PM
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I had the same issue with the headlights. It's becasue of the low amp draw of the LED units. Itried the ones from Amazon and they did that. I had to get the LEDs from Vette Lights (forum vendor) that came with the ballast / resistors. Put them in and now they work fine.

Not sure about the turn signal bulb. Did you check the fuse?
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 07:54 PM
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You DO NOT have to install big resistors to make the lights go down. It's not a resistance thing - it's continuity. I have explained this several times as well as provided SharpLight innovations the diagram to make the plug in harness that fixes this using the closing coil of a simple relay.

The reason they go down on brights is because the module sees continuity through the bright indicator bulb in the dash. Simply wiring terminals 85 and 86 of a relay across the + & - of the driver side (just need one side) bulb wires will fix the retraction problem. DO NOT be fooled into thinking you need to buy big heat creating resistors that pull full current. Even a tiny mini bulb will work in place of the relay.

Try pushing your flasher button on and off several times - over time it starts to cause problems with the blinker function. There are numerous threads on this.



Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Oct 31, 2021 at 07:55 PM.
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 08:44 PM
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Using fat resistors that just turn current into heat kind of defeats the purpose of being energy efficient LEDs
But I'm guilty of this because I know the standard LED halo taillights use resistors in that heatsink on the backside.
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMcE
Using fat resistors that just turn current into heat kind of defeats the purpose of being energy efficient LEDs
But I'm guilty of this because I know the standard LED halo taillights use resistors in that heatsink on the backside.
The resistors on the halos are so they can sell them as plug and play. If you have a hyperflash harness they will still blink w/o the resistor.
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 09:30 PM
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Any chance you have first hand experience with a hyperflash harness and then bypassing the halo taillight resistor?
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMcE
Any chance you have first hand experience with a hyperflash harness and then bypassing the halo taillight resistor?
When I bought mine from George at Radio Flyer a couple years back he told me with the hyperflash harness you can remove the resistors. To be safe I didn't do anything while under warranty. Next time I have reason to, I will probably disconnect one of the wires. It makes total sense. The resistor just adds a huge load to the system and I am not a fan of that.

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Oct 31, 2021 at 09:48 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2021 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMcE
Any chance you have first hand experience with a hyperflash harness and then bypassing the halo taillight resistor?
So thanks for making me get back to the project. I dug up the email from Radio Flyer saying that if there is a hyperflash harness you can remove the resistors. It always bothered me to shunt current to a heat sink when LEDs use so little energy so I clipped a wire on each one. I often sit in traffic and the brake lights and blinkers are on a lot just building heat in the resistors.

I clipped one wire on each resistor and used dual wall shrink tube to seal the wires off. There is no hyperflash with the blinkers, halos operate normally, brake lights work fine. However, the flashers now have hyperflash due to them being controlled by a flasher in the switch. I nearly had an epileptic episode . Not exactly a fan but I only use the hazards maybe once or twice a year.

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Nov 2, 2021 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Oct 31, 2023 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
You DO NOT have to install big resistors to make the lights go down. It's not a resistance thing - it's continuity. I have explained this several times as well as provided SharpLight innovations the diagram to make the plug in harness that fixes this using the closing coil of a simple relay.

The reason they go down on brights is because the module sees continuity through the bright indicator bulb in the dash. Simply wiring terminals 85 and 86 of a relay across the + & - of the driver side (just need one side) bulb wires will fix the retraction problem. DO NOT be fooled into thinking you need to buy big heat creating resistors that pull full current. Even a tiny mini bulb will work in place of the relay.

Try pushing your flasher button on and off several times - over time it starts to cause problems with the blinker function. There are numerous threads on this.
can you elaborate on this? I tried the resistors and they literally blew up after a minute. Do youbhave a diagram of how to hook up the relay?
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