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Today I installed a fidanza short throw shifter in my c5. When I first bought my car the shifting was knotchy. You would change gears and hit a bump then it would slide in. Basically all gears were that way. I took it to a shop the first week of ownership and had them drain the fluid the best they could then put in new and adjusted. The car shifted flawless after that. Then after some time it started coming back. After I put the short shifter in it just kinda amplifies it. Do you guys get the same issue after installing your shorty? I've heard that the sping has got to break in and I've heard that all vettes get the knotchy or pedal stuck to the floor after the fluid gets old. My question is this.
Does having a short shifter cause any of it?
Did you guys have to break in your short shifter?
Would getting a tick master cylinder solve all of this?
Thank you for your input.
Also the fidanza really cuts down on the pull. It went from a 5 inch pull to a 2 inch pull. For 100 bucks I feel that's a pretty good deal..
As stated above...the T56 is notchy to begin with. Most short throw shifters do amplify this. I don't have experience with the Fidanza short throw but I ave two decades of B&M ripper and 3 years of Hurst short throw shifter experience in an MN6 C5. Both are notchy.
Many have done the anti venom mod as suggested above. I've opted not to go that route as some notchiness is preferred by me to get a better feel for the gear. I started experimenting with different weighted shift ***** to improve smooth gear throw without eliminating notchiness completely..
I found a heavier weight **** does the trick in smoothing out the engagements just enough. I went with a Raceseng Signature **** and love it. Plus fit and finish is far superior to all other ***** I've used (c5 oem, C6 modified for C5, Twisted Shifters cue ball, a few others).
If the notchiness is too bothersome you can go "anti venom" for about $3.00 and 30 minutes on a wrench. You can also try a weighted **** which isn't cheap to see if you like the improved shift feel, plus you get a quality interior upgrade as part of the deal.
Ive had similar issues with short shifter(mgw). Finally did the anti venom mod and it improved the notchy but had reverse lockout issues. Also installed a raceseng heavy ****.
After weeks of re-adjusting the shifter, then changing tranny and clutch fluid, I went back to the OEM shifter. Car shifts into every gear like butter, I can get into reverse immediately.
I do miss the quick shifts and not banging my knee with the shifter into first. The C5 definitely performs better with it IMO but Im sticking with the stock for now.
Ive searched this forum to see if anyone has gone back to stock shifter or had similar issues as I, but maybe it's just me. But if you are having issues w/reverse and have a short shifter, I would bet its the shifter that is causing the problem.
I've heard the term a bunch but what is reverse lockout issue?
My shifting was already knotchy with the yardstick so now it's just shorter so I'll keep it regardless. I wonder if you tick guys seen a big improvement?? Mine shifted the smoothest after a fluid swap then it got worse and worse. Just wondering if a tick would solve that whole ordeal..
All shifters used for the C5 are basically the same. A stick through a hole. The stick moves a ball joint at the front of the shift rod sideways and forward and rearward. When the shift rod moves it changes gears in the transmission.
The shifters don't do a thing to change the notchiness of the transmission as all they do is move the shift rod. Inside the transmission the only thing that is seen is the shift rod moving. The only variables in the shifter design are the diameter of the hole, the percentage of the stick that is above or below the hole (which is the lever fulcrum point). If you raise the position of the hole on the stick you shorten the driver's shift throw while lengthening the distance the stick moves the shift rod while narrowing the gates slightly. If you narrow the hole you reduce the distance between gates more. Some aftermarket shifters add small springs inside the shifter housing to increase the centering force that takes the shifter to the 3/4 shift gate. The transmission already does this but the outside springs add more force to drive the shifter to the center gate when in neutral.
I have a 2001 z06 with the exact same setup, the fidanza short throw shifter from a previous owner.
To answer your first question: Yes - the transmission is VERY notchy. I changed my transmission fluid this weekend to AMSOIL ATF and it made a HUGE difference in the smoothness of pushing the shift **** into each "gate". Previously, trying to get into 5th at higher RPM was a lot of swearing and waiting for the revs to fall before I could engage it. Now it is much better.
I do have the anti-venom mod (2 washers) and I think this made a difference in helping the engagement be a bit less stiff. Also, I took apart the fidanza shifter and cut down the return-to-neutral springs a tiny bit. These were causing a LOT of resistance to going into first, 5th, and reverse.
With these modest changes its definitely better, but we have to also remember the T56 isn't the most smooth transmission to shift in general so you sort of get to "it is what it is" after a while.
I have a 2001 z06 with the exact same setup, the fidanza short throw shifter from a previous owner.
To answer your first question: Yes - the transmission is VERY notchy. I changed my transmission fluid this weekend to AMSOIL ATF and it made a HUGE difference in the smoothness of pushing the shift **** into each "gate". Previously, trying to get into 5th at higher RPM was a lot of swearing and waiting for the revs to fall before I could engage it. Now it is much better.
I do have the anti-venom mod (2 washers) and I think this made a difference in helping the engagement be a bit less stiff. Also, I took apart the fidanza shifter and cut down the return-to-neutral springs a tiny bit. These were causing a LOT of resistance to going into first, 5th, and reverse.
With these modest changes its definitely better, but we have to also remember the T56 isn't the most smooth transmission to shift in general so you sort of get to "it is what it is" after a while.
I agree going into 1st and 2nd you gotta muscle it but going to 3rd and 4th gear fast it works good. I've been driving it for about a week or so and leaving it in 1st when I park. Hopefully that will loosen up that spring a little..
I've been searching/watching these shifter threads but I haven't seen anyone describe problems similar to what I'm encountering. I can shift hard and fast from 1-2-3-4 but occasionally (on track) when rev matching and down-shifting from 4-3 my shifter gets hung up and it feels like I'm trying to stir a bowl of oatmeal! Difficult to get back into 4th but once I do I can resume shifting as normal. Modded '03 Z, Shifter is an MTI unit installed by previous owner. Fresh Amsoil Torque Drive fluid. I'm going to check linkage adjustment, not sure if there is any type of lube/maintenance to be done on shifter. Maybe anti-venom mod or maybe I need MORE venom? Even considering getting a C6 shifter if I can't get this set-up reliable. Sorry to climb aboard this thread but some pretty good info is being discussed here.
I've been searching/watching these shifter threads but I haven't seen anyone describe problems similar to what I'm encountering. I can shift hard and fast from 1-2-3-4 but occasionally (on track) when rev matching and down-shifting from 4-3 my shifter gets hung up and it feels like I'm trying to stir a bowl of oatmeal! Difficult to get back into 4th but once I do I can resume shifting as normal. Modded '03 Z, Shifter is an MTI unit installed by previous owner. Fresh Amsoil Torque Drive fluid. I'm going to check linkage adjustment, not sure if there is any type of lube/maintenance to be done on shifter. Maybe anti-venom mod or maybe I need MORE venom? Even considering getting a C6 shifter if I can't get this set-up reliable. Sorry to climb aboard this thread but some pretty good info is being discussed here.
Put ur other shifter back on to verify it is the shifter. Thats what i would.