I posted on another ls forum but thought id post here. Im running an elgin 1839 .575 lift cam. I read the pac-1218s are what i need. Amazon has the pac -1219s for 154$ or the pac-1218s for 153$. Which set would last longer the 1218s or 1219s. Elgin suggested running springs that were .025-.030 range of the max lift vs running the cam with the max lift of the spring specs. For the same price would it be better to get the 1218s for 1219s? Another question on pushrods should i go with the amazon black horse racing 7.4 .080 wall pushrods that run around 89$? is there anything wrong with the other version or spend the extra 15$ for a set of tfs, btr. I seen summit has an affordable set at 33$ that are welded tips that wont break off similar to stock. Summit Racing SUM-G6400-LS Summit Racing™ Pushrods | Summit Racing Anyone use these theyre .065 wall thickness LSXceleration 7.400 LS1 LS2 LS3 Hardened .065 Wall Pushrods

 

If u dont drive like a retard, Those pushrods will still be here when ur way dead and gone. Im not saying ur a retard so chill. If this is how im interpreting ur question.

From my experience i never heard of a tip break.

 

I only have 2 things to say:
1: Using 5/16 PRs, don't go thinner than .080" wall.
2: Do NOT trust your valvetrain to Amazon parts!!

 

Some of the stuff is real like the elgin cam i purchased from them. Kmj performance who also sells has the cam for 234.99$ but yes not that knock off boot let stuff that seen all over. My main question which set of springs should i order pac 1218s or pac 1219s? The 1219s are readily available but if the 1218s are more durable for a cam with .575 lift im for the 1218s. I ordered a balancer cam just need a set of springs to change the balancer/cam swap probably right after winter. Over on ls1tech they told me 1218s were perfect but i seen the real made in america 1219s can be had for the same price. Elgin only recommends the 1218s spring pressure is suited for my stage 1.75 cam. I did an alternator swap yesterday on another car where it was mid 70s today it was to cold to be outside working on a car much less balancer/cam swap.

Yes you bet i only have experience with Trickflow 7.40 one piece pushrods and manley titanium retainer dual springs after reading about pac early spring failures and dropping valves back when i purchased a 98 z28 in 2009.

So long story short will 1219s last as long as 1218s on a .575 lift cam?

 

I don't know anything about PAC spring failures. One of the best spring companies there is. I have a set of 1905 PAC duals in my LS7. 33,000 miles on them, still good, no issues....

 

May i ask if you would go with the 1219s instead of the 1218s on a .575 lift cam and they should still just as durable. The reason is the 1219s are just as much but in terms of spring rate may be kind of high for a single beehive spring vs a set of duals that hold 380-400 spring rate. My only experience is with dual manleys as well which were a nice spring set. I read on summit the 1219x high rpm springs a guy installed them on a ls7 with .005 lift before max lift and broke a spring or multiple springs right away. I have a 149$ amazon credit or gift card balance so its best to buy a set of 1219s or 1218s whichever is preferred and only cost me the 5-6$ plus shipping. There is reputable vendors like michigans motorsports has the 1219s for 152.99$ on sale where as the have the 1218s for 180$+.

 

I'm paranoid about valve springs, because I once broke one. At about 2,000rpm, leaving a stop sign, with a brand new, $15,000.00 427 engine, with brand new AFR 225 heads. AFR stacked the springs installed height too short, .100" too short!!! I had 300 miles on this engine, still running break-in oil!! I had dual springs on it. That inner spring saved my *** $15,000.00 worth. In 2006 dollars. PLEASE-Don't believe people who say single springs are better. They very well may be. Until one breaks. Then you drop a valve, and need a new engine. I'll NEVER run a single valve spring again, I don't care what brand, or who's trying to sell me one. I have a fabulous reason to run duals, one worth $15,000.00, and thats why I do. If I were you, I'd call PAC, or PSI. Nobody makes any better springs than these 2 companies. In fact, I've been told by a very good source that PSI was started by a former PAC employee. 2 best valve spring companies out there, in my opinion. Tell them you want a dual spring for your application, and have your cam specs ready. You won't be sorry......

 

Summit has an affordable dual spring set Summit Racing SME-174003 Summit Racing™ GM LS Dual Valve Spring Upgrade Kits | Summit Racing that comes with valve seals would cost about the same as the beehives by the time you buy new seals. I haven't seen the patriot heads or patriot gold dual valve springs around in a while.
I read about early pac spring failures and used manley duals with titanium retainers i was able to get off ebay for 90$ on my old 98 z28 with s475 turbo a 300$ spring set in 2011. So anyone think 1218s or the 1219s? Its the small cam tfs uses as their track max 500hp/485tq trickflow ls head cam package. I think pac got the issue fixed on the pac spring box is it does say the date manufactured. Summit does have a direct drop in ls dual spring set i think with 400 spring rate for 180$. Summit told me they use 1218s often and lunati has the same spring set where lunati and pac spent a year engineering the pacaloy spring set when i asked summit where they got the name pacaloy. Elgin told me they were enginnering a double spring or single spring i believe currently for direct drop in on ls vehicles. I think the single beehives will be fine with the small 220/224 cam. This elgin cam seems to maybe have the same core numbers stamped as a comp ls1 cam i seen someone was selling.

I had spoken to tsp about torque converters they said use the old lt1 700r4 4l60e lock-up converter for c5 corvette if i couldn't afford the 1000$ circle d, precisions that hold 1000hp. I should have purchased one of these 2400-2800 stahl converter assault racing or kmjperformance sells. Has the correct 10 3/4 bolt pattern lock-up 30 spline when rebuilding the torque tube with the transmission out. ATC 600013 | GM 700r4 Torque Converter - 2400-2800 RPM Stall :: Assault Racing Products

 

Found someone with a corvette and the same 1839 cam. It doesn't mention his mods. I had posted a question on his youtube video. Idles rough hopefully will run good on my 99 auto c5. Says it first start so hopefully the cam will run fine untuned elgin told me the 1838 and 1839 will supposedly run with the stock tune. I was thinking if getting the green giant 42lb injectors for 80$ to replace the factory 26 or 28lb injectors that are 22 years old.

 

Justin, I don't know your budget, but if you can swing it, I have had a 3,200 stall Yank converter in my 2000 C5 for almost 16 years. They're good enough for John Lingenfelter, so they're good enough for me. But they're probably a grand nowadays....

 

Custom ls1 tuning does mail order tunes for 125$ but does recommend wb o2 full tune to get maximum performance. From what i understand this cam will run on a stock tune. People use to use mail order tunes i believe back in 2008 when i was 18 and had an 95 z28. Im still waiting on the professional products or kmj balancer to arrive then maybe going with the 1219s as they're the same price and will hopefully last as long as 1218s in terms of miles or if there's a reason not to run 1219s because of the beehive and higher spring rate someone let me know. It also allows for a bigger cam upgrade if i did end up with a torque converter,

 

I once had an "educated guess" tune done by a pro. Eventually went 12.50@114-totally stock internals, shorty headers, and bolt-ons on my 2000 C5. I think I could've gained another tent, maybe two, in the 1/4 mile...

 

Thoughts on the BTR PLATINUM LS DUAL SPRING KIT as an option?

 

May i ask who tuned it? They use to use mail order tunes alot i believe vs local dyno tuners from what i seen in 2008. Its 170$ shipped and 24 hour turnaround time for the mail order tune. He said he could get it close tune but recommended wideband tune to get it perfect. What mods did you have on your 2000 c5? shorty headers with factory catback? what other bolt ons? Was yours six speed or auto? Im assuming 6 speed. What tires and 60ft did you have? Im hoping i can get somewhere close to 350whp with the cam, headers and tune. Any idea how much hp tq is lost thru the auto? about 25hp maybe?

 

A guy named Troy at Howell Engine Development, in Marine City, Michigan. Not a mail order tune. I had to drive to their shop, and he plugged his laptop into the OBD 2 port. It was long ago, back in 2004. So long ago it was done with LS1 Edit, which was the go to programming software then. Don't think HP Tuners was on the market yet. But it really woke the car up......

 

My car is an A4, no 6 spd. Factory catback, no cats, Flowmaster mufflers, LS6 intake, 160° T-stat, 25% ASP UD balancer, Granatelli MAF, Blackwing air filter (NOT a CAI, just a lot more unrestricted filter area). Hard to remember it all, it's been awhile. With the stock iron exhaust manifolds, my car still ran pretty good for stock internals, high 12s@110mph. One other thing I had: 10.5" wide repop thin spokes in back, which allowed me to run stickier 315/30/18 Michelin PS2s, which are almost 1" smaller diameter than the OEM 275/40/18s. They were also a grand for the 2 tires, and at least $600 for the 10.5" wide wheels. This gave me more traction, and lowered the effective gear ratio some. Let's say it took the 3.15 and effectively made it a 3.20-3.25 gear. I'd have to do the math to figure it out, but I'm sure you get the idea. It really wasn't any one thing that made a huge improvement. It was all the small things added together that gained me about a full second, and 7 mph in the 1/4 mile. Many, many times, I wish I woulda stopped there.......