Hello all. Car specs in sig. I have a Pioneer Double-DIN installed that worked for months with no issues. I also have a CLB installed that also worked with no issues (I did have to do relay reset once). I recently did a Procharger install, and as part of that I added a Wideband O2. It worked for weeks/months with no issues as well. For reasons unknown, the radio AND Wideband have started to stay off when I start the car, and randomly turn on. Sometimes within a few minutes of turning the car on, sometimes half an hour, and sometimes not at all in my commute (~40 minutes). Doesn't seem to coincide with any outside influence (bumps, turns, etc). I have also started experiencing the "Pull Key Wait 10 Seconds" Message, and it WOULD kill the car (I defeated that with HPtuners).

I did NOT do the CLB myself (it was installed previously). When I noted it before, it appeared to be the LMC5 (I think that's the name), brown wire not connected. I DID do the radio, but it has been months (or years? Damn lockdowns). I also did the wideband, and I know I used a few of the wires in the footwell, but did NOT share anything with the CLB other than the ground contact point/plate in the footwell.

I've done quick looks but haven't had the time to tear the dash apart and look at all the wires. Nothing looks obviously wrong. Jacking around with the wiring and connection points doesn't seem to trigger them back to life. When they DO come on, there's no loss of data (Radio still has time/date correct, presets, etc). It seems to come and go, and each time I've gotten serious about addressing it it stops doing it for a while (of course).

I don't believe in coincidences, and as these all started about the same time, I'm 99% sure it's all related. Any of the gurus in here have any "aha!" thoughts that could save me tearing everything apart? The radio data saving makes me think it has to be associated with the "remote/switched" power source for the radio, as main power or ground should reset everything like pulling the battery. I don't see how that makes the CLB act up though. I did try the relay reset, that didn't do it (although I don't think I verified fuse 25 - BUT- since it comes back on it can't be a fuse right?).

 

I would pull and reseat the relays in the interior fuse block
The Ignition switch sends 12v to relays which send power to all the various devices on the car.

 

An excellent idea. I also wonder if I should look at the associated ground block. I've seen the post on cleaning those up.

 

Wouldn't hurt to check grounds there's one under the plastic cover on the passenger side pillar.

 

After 2 days of no radio/wideband I dove in this weekend. I found the switched power I tapped for the wideband not producing anything. I checked all of the connections it had, all good. The switched power I tapped is the "spare" cable in the passenger footwell so many others have used for extra equipment. I checked all fuses in the footwell, found the cigarette lighter blown, but it's not even connected right now. All the other fuses were good. I reseated all relays, still no change. I didn't take the ground apart in the side of the footwell, but I did wiggle it around, exterior of the pack looks good (I AM going to take it apart and clean it, ran out of time).

I didn't take the stereo out and check it yet, but still think all of the issues are connected. I didn't think about it until reading some more things last night, but I should have checked the fuses in the panel HOT instead of simply intact. I imagine I'm going to find the fuses relevant to the stereo, that extra cable the wideband is connected to, and the column lock/bypass all without power. With that assumption - where do I go from here? BCM died?

 

Could it be the ignition switch has dumped? I know you say you don't believe in coincidences, but they do occur. Maybe the contacts just happened to go down at the same time?? IDK. I DO know that I had a problem with mine, so I disconnected the battery, then cycled/turned the key back and forth about 50 times (as exciting as vacuuming the carpet!). My forearm was a bit sore afterwards, but after reconnecting the battery, no more issues since. Might be worth a try. Best of luck to you...

 

I'm willing to give anything (reasonable) a try. What was the basis for the 50 cycles? Did you use any contact cleaner or similar?

 

Could be the Ignition switch contacts, but no amount of contact cleaner will help, you have to remove the Ignition switch assembly and inspect the contacts in the switch block portion of the Ignition switch. There is a sticky on this site that details the process.

 

Found the sticky! Hmmmmm.... things to ponder. I need to find some schematics to see if I can reasonably be seeing what I'm seeing. Plenty of the ACC/switched 12V items in the car work just fine. My next move was to check the voltage at the various fuses in the box. I've had the dash all apart before and it's not that bad. I remember thinking several times maybe it was the ignition switch. The randomly turning on during the drive always weirded me out though...

 

Of course it's always nice to have schematic drawings to help trace the wiring out.

 

Update: I removed the ignition switch and inspected the contact blocks inside. I DID find ALL of the contact points with at least some burn marks, 2 of them almost completely covered. I cleaned them up with 220 grit and 400 grit, then polished with 800,1200, and 2000 (both stationary and movable contact surfaces). I was extremely hopeful this would be the issue, but alas, it was not. I am quite certain that it would have been causing issues relatively soon, so thanks for the nudge. Might be my imagination but everything seemed brighter and to "turn on" quicker.

I then removed the radio and confirmed that it shares the switch 12v+ source with my wideband: the yellow wire in the "spare" set found in the passenger footwell. I removed my connection and verified that in all switch positions the yellow is now dead. Does anyone have the full schematic that shows where this thing gets its power from?

I am certain that I can now make both features work - but I don't want to just work around the problem (although a recommendation on what switched circuit to use would be nice). I'd like to actually solve it. I didn't check every fuse in the interior footwell panel, but all of the radio-related fuses were still showing battery voltage. I believe this "spare" wireset comes from the BCM based on what I read, but I've never seen it shown on a wiring diagram, or if there are additional fuses or relays between the BCM and it.

 

I added a circuit to an empty Hot In Run slot in the footwell fusebox, wired the O2 and Stereo to it, so now I have all functionality back. I've been searching for more information on where the "spare" wires in the footwell get their power so I can continue troubleshooting, but not having much luck. I did find a thread where Bill Curlee mentions that it IS fused somewhere - anyone know which one?

 

Here's a electrical diagram from a 02 hope it helps

 

Did you replace the blown fuse? That fuse is what supplies the aux power harness

 

Thank you, I do think I found it! "Aux Power Drop" on page 33, CNSL CIG, says Fuse 1. I think that was the label of the fuse that I found blown, but I thought it would be related to the cigarette lighter, which I currently have unplugged because I found it corroded when I did the radio. I did briefly replace it and it didn't immediately blow, I figured the wires had touched something so I left it out. I can verify that now, and if that's it rest a *little* easier. Wish I knew what caused the fuse to blow, as it was a 20 and the stereo turn on and O2 sensor are currently running on a 10a just fine...

 

Wow...replace a blown fuse and it works. EUREKA!

 

several things made this slightly more complicated. The label doesn't exactly scream "random wires in footwell", and as mentioned, I don't have my actual cigarette lighter in the console (that doesn't appear to be powered from this fuse). Lastly is the "intermittent" nature of the issue - it was in and out without any changes/input/fuse swaps. My problem is most likely not "solved" (and I haven't validated the fuse being replaced actually giving me power back), whatever caused the fuse to blow will probably do it again. However, now I have good documents to guide me.

 

Sorry this is so late in the game. I did the cycles to try and "scrub" the contacts. It did seem to work......

 

No worries, thanks for coming back at all! I did end up removing the ignition, and it DID need some attention, so thanks for getting me moving in that direction.