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Converting TICK adjustable Master Cyclinder back to OEM
Installing a new Monster double disc clutch in my Supercharged ‘02 convertible. Monster recommends running a new OEM type master cylinder. Removed the TICK, which has a threaded AN style fitting coming out the pressurized side. The new MC is designed so that the stock clutch hydraulic line can be pressed into place and help firm by a dowel type pin. I would really like to use the braided stainless steel hydraulic line from the TICK set up, but obviously need some type of adapter fitting to go into the new Stock master and then have a threaded AN 3 fitting that will mate up to the current TICK line I have in the car. I’ve done some internet research to find such a fitting and see some that might work, but hope somebody on our forum has been down this road already and can direct me to purchase the correct hydraulic fitting for this application. Can post pictures when I get home to make this clear. Any and all help is appreciated. Irish31
Why would they want the OEM clutch? It probably has to do with the Monster being calibrated to work with the force of the OEM clutch. I'd leave the Tick in, as it gives you a ton more flexibility. Just adjust the Tick master with the new clutch using the same procedure that you would for any other clutch.
Thanks to both of you guys for the feedback. My TICK actually has a fluid leak which needs to be fixed ( is there a rebuild kit for the Tilton cylinder?). I’m going in with a new GM style OEM master, just wish I could order a compatible adapter with confidence to reuse the TICK stainless steel braided line. Anybody been down this road before? I think I found a possible solution, but hate ordering parts that look OK on paper but don’t work out in real life. Would love to hear about somebody on the Forum that solved this problem and could recommend a part number and/or Vendor to contact. Thanks, guys. Irish
Thanks to everyone for the feedback, especially the idea to call TICK Performance. They sold me the correct part today, Earl's Steel Adapter, T56 Clutch Slave to -4 Male AN fitting. Part # is LS641001ERL. Hope this helps the next poor soul working on his clutch job. I love this Forum! Irish
McLeod 139026 Quick-Disconnect Fitting Straight -4 AN Steel Zinc
I still run tick master, I used that fitting to convert to all AN lines, from the master to the slave, get rid of the oem push connect thing, and route the clutch line away from heat, though I don't remember what fitting is on the oem master side of things. not sure if this helps. I dont want to get rid of my tick master though, so I'm just to run a clutch stop, to avoid over extension of the pressure plate, granted i've technically been "overextending" it for 5 yrs of the 8yrs i've had my twin disk McLeod.
McLeod 139026 Quick-Disconnect Fitting Straight -4 AN Steel Zinc
I still run tick master, I used that fitting to convert to all AN lines, from the master to the slave, get rid of the oem push connect thing, and route the clutch line away from heat, though I don't remember what fitting is on the oem master side of things. not sure if this helps. I dont want to get rid of my tick master though, so I'm just to run a clutch stop, to avoid over extension of the pressure plate, granted i've technically been "overextending" it for 5 yrs of the 8yrs i've had my twin disk McLeod.
I need more details on this please. That plastic push disconnect is the bane of my existence!
I need more details on this please. That plastic push disconnect is the bane of my existence!
with my turbo kit, it was right in the mix. so I replaced it was a longer braided 4AN line, away from the exhaust stuff.
even N/A they run close to the headers, boiling the fluids during back to back pulls, making the pedal spongy.
I would think the Tick can be adjusted to not have the slave over-travel the PP fingers...that's why it's adjustable.
You need to creep up on the adjustment setting of the Tick. All you need is that when clutch is all the way down, it is barely releasing the clutch. Hold clutch down and rev motor and if the car doesn't move then clutch is fully disengaged.
with my turbo kit, it was right in the mix. so I replaced it was a longer braided 4AN line, away from the exhaust stuff.
even N/A they run close to the headers, boiling the fluids during back to back pulls, making the pedal spongy.
Nice! Do you have some sort of disconnect built into it?