Rear main seal cover
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 175
Likes: 8
From: Tuskegee Al
Rear main seal cover
Greetings:
I am installing a C7 clutch kit in my 2003 C5 coupe with 130,000 miles on it. I will rebuild the torque tube, new slave and master cylinder and a new rear main gasket and seal. I purchased a gasket kit, but found a video on YouTube recommending the redesigned cover and gasket. Will I be ok with the new gasket and seal or should I get the new cover. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I am installing a C7 clutch kit in my 2003 C5 coupe with 130,000 miles on it. I will rebuild the torque tube, new slave and master cylinder and a new rear main gasket and seal. I purchased a gasket kit, but found a video on YouTube recommending the redesigned cover and gasket. Will I be ok with the new gasket and seal or should I get the new cover. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Le Mans Master
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 175
Likes: 8
From: Tuskegee Al
Racer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 462
Likes: 123
From: Ozark Alabama
It's been a while and mine is an automatic car so it may be a little different. From what I remember once you tilt the drive line down the bolts are accessable. Be carefully not to pinch the wiring harness when you put it back together. I pinched mine but caught it before doing any damage. Also I did have my young daughter help in some of the tight spaces.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 173
Likes: 26
From: Princeton IN
I did this very job recently. Bought the Fel-Pro gasket set with new rear main seal. My preference was to use the original GM part (rear cover). The trick to doing it my way is that you'll need to buy the rear main seal alignment tool from Sac-City or an Ebay knock off. I don't see how a guy could get at the top bolts without removing the bellhousing. This was no small task. Finally, either way you go, make sure to put a bead of RTV sealant in the two "corners" where the rear cover meets the oil pan. Good Luck. Irish
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 175
Likes: 8
From: Tuskegee Al
Thanks for the feedback. I am going to attempt this job within the next three weeks, weather permitting here in Alabama. I is a big job, considering that there is so much to do while you have the driveline out. I will be posting updates as we go along. Thanks again.
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 201
From: Montgomery City, MO
I'm already subscribed but wanted to wish you the best of luck.
I've recently acquired a 2001 which I suspect has disintegrated prop shaft couplers, so this job is likely in my near future. I will be watching intently.
I have the 2001 FSM and if you have questions will try to respond though the data I have may not be the most current for your car.
Good luck and doG speed sir!
I've recently acquired a 2001 which I suspect has disintegrated prop shaft couplers, so this job is likely in my near future. I will be watching intently.
I have the 2001 FSM and if you have questions will try to respond though the data I have may not be the most current for your car.
Good luck and doG speed sir!
Last edited by spfautsch; Jan 14, 2022 at 09:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 175
Likes: 8
From: Tuskegee Al
Greetings!
I am about to undertake my clutch install as soon as the weather breaks down here. I have all parts with the exception of the torque tube seals, which are scheduled for Wednesday. I have my LS7 clutch kit, a Dorman slave cylinder, a GM master cylinder and a Tick performance remote bleeder. I also have the rear main seal kit and a centering tool as well as a new barbell. I have the Tick Performance torque Tube rebuild kit. My latest question is I have read that the LS7 clutch kit comes balanced, with a mark on the flywheel and on the pressure plate. However, the marks do not line up exactly. Do I install it as close to the marks as possible, or do I seek another solution? All advice will be appreciated.
I am about to undertake my clutch install as soon as the weather breaks down here. I have all parts with the exception of the torque tube seals, which are scheduled for Wednesday. I have my LS7 clutch kit, a Dorman slave cylinder, a GM master cylinder and a Tick performance remote bleeder. I also have the rear main seal kit and a centering tool as well as a new barbell. I have the Tick Performance torque Tube rebuild kit. My latest question is I have read that the LS7 clutch kit comes balanced, with a mark on the flywheel and on the pressure plate. However, the marks do not line up exactly. Do I install it as close to the marks as possible, or do I seek another solution? All advice will be appreciated.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 201
From: Montgomery City, MO
I'm not a mod, but please don't create new threads on the same topic just because you don't get a response.
As to your clutch cover question - you only have so many ways the cover can be oriented - there are six bolt holes so only six different clockings to install the cover. The balance marks are not super critical because both pieces should be balanced individually to within +/- 1 gram or less. The paint mark just tells you the clocking where the two units show the best overall balance when spun as a pair.
As to your clutch cover question - you only have so many ways the cover can be oriented - there are six bolt holes so only six different clockings to install the cover. The balance marks are not super critical because both pieces should be balanced individually to within +/- 1 gram or less. The paint mark just tells you the clocking where the two units show the best overall balance when spun as a pair.