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I recently did a h/c/i on my car. I also removed the pcm and sent it out for a base tune. I got everything back together and my oil pressure gauge reads 0 oil pressure. I put a mechanical gauge on the car and it has good oil pressure. The gauge cycles when I turn the key on. Also, the gauge worked before I disassembled the car. Any help diagnosing where the problem is would be appreciated.
I recently did a h/c/i on my car. I also removed the pcm and sent it out for a base tune. I got everything back together and my oil pressure gauge reads 0 oil pressure. I put a mechanical gauge on the car and it has good oil pressure. The gauge cycles when I turn the key on. Also, the gauge worked before I disassembled the car. Any help diagnosing where the problem is would be appreciated.
Pinched wire. Get DMV out but then on the other hand, this is a known problem.
Before you spend your Saturday retracing steps to chase a pinched wire...take 30 minutes and pull the oil pressure sensor out to see if it blew out. I had one fail the very day of a H/C swap.
Before you spend your Saturday retracing steps to chase a pinched wire...take 30 minutes and pull the oil pressure sensor out to see if it blew out. I had one fail the very day of a H/C swap.
How can I test the sending unit? I’ve got 5v from the grey wire to ground and the black has continuity to ground on the plug. I’m not not sure how to test the signal input circuit.
Like most sensors it has a 5v reference, signal, and a ground, you need a wiring diagram which will show the next connector opposite the oil pressure sender connector that you can measure the signal wire voltage.
Like most sensors it has a 5v reference, signal, and a ground, you need a wiring diagram which will show the next connector opposite the oil pressure sender connector that you can measure the signal wire voltage.
I never tested one. For $60 and 30 minutes I just replace them. 5 failures over 22 years just as you've described. All fixed with a sensor swap.
Some fail and oil blows through the top of them. Others fail but look fine.
The sensors are a known failure point. Hundreds and hundreds of posts on this failure.
Yep, I replaced mine several years ago, it failed by maxing out the gauge. It could be a coincidence that the oil pressure sensor has failed after the work was done, or not that's why I advised to check the signal from the sensor.
Can't go wrong either testing it or swapping it out. By the time you get back there swapping it out is faster. If it's not the sensor you'll have an extra one for when the other eventually fails. Because it will.
Then you'll just have to focus on finding whatever else it is causing the issue.
Yep, I replaced mine several years ago, it failed by maxing out the gauge. It could be a coincidence that the oil pressure sensor has failed after the work was done, or not that's why I advised to check the signal from the sensor.
Yeah I’ve read a lot that if the gauge maxes out it’s usually the sending unit. I just replaced the sending unit and the gauge still lays on zero. There is obviously a problem with the signal getting to the gauge. The problem is beyond my ability so I’ll have to find someone to troubleshoot it. Like I said, there is 5 volts getting to the sending unit. Thanks guys for the help.
Yeah I’ve read a lot that if the gauge maxes out it’s usually the sending unit. I just replaced the sending unit and the gauge still lays on zero. There is obviously a problem with the signal getting to the gauge. The problem is beyond my ability so I’ll have to find someone to troubleshoot it. Like I said, there is 5 volts getting to the sending unit. Thanks guys for the help.
DAMN IT! I'm sorry to hear I was wrong. That sucks.
Haha! Not at all bud. It has a new sending unit now. Thanks!
You have pressure so it's not the oil pump relief valve that's stuck. You have voltage to the sender so it's not a broken or pinched wire. And it's not the sensor.
Did all sound correct when you started the car? No rattling or anything sound out of the ordinary inside the block?
I do not know which year your car is , please put it in your profile.
Here is the drawing in a 2000 .
The voltage signal between A and C shall normally operate between 0.5 and 4.5 volt .going to the PCM input .
Do you have a DTC P0522 (Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage )
or DTC P0523 (Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage) ?
I do not know which year your car is , please put it in your profile.
Here is the drawing in a 2000 .
The voltage signal between A and C shall normally operate between 0.5 and 4.5 volt .going to the PCM input .
Do you have a DTC P0522 (Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage )
or DTC P0523 (Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage) ?
When my car is idling the sensor output to the PCM was 1.69 volt when the oilpressure is 39 psi .
This is according to info from my Tech2 data when my car was idling at approc 655 rpm . .
Check if the C terminal is shorted or your sensor may is bad .
When my car is idling the sensor output to the PCM was 1.69 volt when the oilpressure is 39 psi .
This is according to info from my Tech2 data when my car was idling at approc 655 rpm . .
Check if the C terminal is shorted or your sensor may is bad .
I feel like a dumbass! I didn’t check that with the engine running. LOL. You just helped me out a lot though. So if I check the signal wire to ground I should have anywhere from 0 to 5 volts with the engine running. I’m gonna do that tomorrow and if the voltage fluctuates with the oil pressure changes then I am good back to the PCM?
If your idle signal voltage from the sensor is similar to the voltage shown above and the voltage increases when you increase the rpm (oilpressure increases ) your sensor seems to respond correct
If your idle signal voltage from the sensor is similar to the voltage shown above and the voltage increases when you increase the rpm (oilpressure increases ) your sensor seems to respond correct
So not trying to get ahead of myself but what if the signal to the pcm is correct? I had a base tune done in my pcm. That is really all that was done between taking the car apart and putting it back together. Is there any possibility the problem could be in the pcm?