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I was going to purchase a replacement air bridge from a forum member since mine was buckled when i had purchased the car. In the pics of his 00 air bridge hes selling its looks rounded. Can anyone confirm that the 99 stock air bridge is indeed oval along with the stock flex bellow before i do purchase one from a forum member? Yes i had molded silicone that adhered to the stock bridge to keep unfiltered air out. I doubt it will fall off into the intake but dont want to risk it thus reason for purchasing replacement. By the way i had asked in another thread but is there ANY power gain from the varam power duct air bridge or are they not worth the 120$ spent?
man i already got it tuned monday thinking the air bridge was just a bolt on mod for a stock car. I was mainly looking to replace the stock buckled one that was already on the car.
man i already got it tuned monday thinking the air bridge was just a bolt on mod for a stock car. I was mainly looking to replace the stock buckled one that was already on the car.
I've seen your other posts on this - don't buy into all the hype that an air bridge is going to add all kinds of power. I would just replace it with a stock one if that's what you need or a cheap replacement if yours is damaged. I wouldn't buy some vararam air bridge like you were thinking. If you ever go with a true cold air intake to go with your engine mods, it will be part of that system.
I've seen your other posts on this - don't buy into all the hype that an air bridge is going to add all kinds of power. I would just replace it with a stock one if that's what you need or a cheap replacement if yours is damaged. I wouldn't buy some vararam air bridge like you were thinking. If you ever go with a true cold air intake to go with your engine mods, it will be part of that system.
I agree with Ed. BTW, I once overtightened my coupler on the airbridge, and buckled it like you. I used the wifes hairdryer (dont tell her!!) to reform it, and it worked. I then used a small coating of black silicone all the way around the bridge, where the accordian coupler goes on. Then I used a Zip-Tie to tighten it, instead of a metal clamp. Been on it for almost 15 years now, and no issues. I have a built LS7 in my 2000 vert. Other than a Blackwing filter, the intake is all stock GM. I'm using the 85mm LS6 MAF sensor, the stock airbridge with smoothed silicone coupler, a stock LS7 throttle body and a stock LS7 Intake manifold. Yes, I might be leaving a small amount of power on the table. BUT-I have an A4 car with a 3,200 stall Yank converter. On a Mustang dyno, I made right at 500whp. The tuner said with a 6 speed manual, I would be at 520-525whp. So I'd have to say an airbridge on an otherwise stock 350 LS1 wouldn't do much of anything. My .02.
Last edited by grinder11; Feb 18, 2022 at 11:49 AM.
I agree with Ed. BTW, I once overtightened my coupler on the airbridge, and buckled it like you. I used the wifes hairdryer (dont tell her!!) to reform it, and it worked. I then used a small coating of black silicone on it where the accordian coupler goes on. Then I used a Zip-Tie to tighten it, instead of a metal clamp. Been on it for almost 15 years now, and no issues. I have a built LS7 in my 2000 vert. Other than a Blackwing filter, the intake is all stock GM. I'm using the 85mm LS6 MAF sensor, the stock airbridge with smoothed silicone coupler, a stock LS7 throttle body and a stock LS7 Intake manifold. Yes, I might be leaving a small amount of power on the table. BUT-I have an A4 car with a 3,200 stall Yank converter. On a Mustang dyno, I made right at 500whp. The tuner said with a 6 speed manual, I would be at 520-525whp. So I'd have to say an airbridge on an otherwise stock 350 LS1 wouldn't do much of anything. My .02.
You confirmed that the 4l60e looses 25hp in most dyno scenarios? Im just curious how much the 4l60e and 2.73s, 3.42s and 4.10s affect dyno numbers vs 6 speeds. Do you know how much power or tq is lost thru a big converter or with whichever lock-up power should be the same other then it stahling 2500-3800 whatever the stahl is. Yes i was replacing the filter and saw the bridge may later need to be replaced or an aftermarket air bridge that comes with most intakes advertising 20hp+ if that played a part. The ziptie mod only adds 15hp according to some or the post i seen.
You confirmed that the 4l60e looses 25hp in most dyno scenarios? Im just curious how much the 4l60e and 2.73s, 3.42s and 4.10s affect dyno numbers vs 6 speeds. Do you know how much power or tq is lost thru a big converter or with whichever lock-up power should be the same other then it stahling 2500-3800 whatever the stahl is. Yes i was replacing the filter and saw the bridge may later need to be replaced or an aftermarket air bridge that comes with most intakes advertising 20hp+ if that played a part. The ziptie mod only adds 15hp according to some or the post i seen.
I dont have info on specific losses. I'm merely relaying what I was told by the tuner, who has a lot of experience tuning both auto trans and manual trans Corvettes, and he said a manual usually comes in anywhere from 20hp to 25hp higher than auto trans cars do with virtually the same mods. I do know that lower geared (higher numerically) cars usually dyno higher, all things equal. Tuner said a 4.10 geared car will dyno higher numbers than a 2.73 diff car, with same mods. Hope this helps......
I dont have info on specific losses. I'm merely relaying what I was told by the tuner, who has a lot of experience tuning both auto trans and manual trans Corvettes, and he said a manual usually comes in anywhere from 20hp to 25hp higher than auto trans cars do with virtually the same mods. I do know that lower geared (higher numerically) cars usually dyno higher, all things equal. Tuner said a 4.10 geared car will dyno higher numbers than a 2.73 diff car, with same mods. Hope this helps......
Great so maybe 25hp difference from the auto 3.15s are pretty close to 3.42s but not nearly when there isnt the 3rd gearing would take some 3.73s atleast. Thanks for your information.
Great so maybe 25hp difference from the auto 3.15s are pretty close to 3.42s but not nearly when there isnt the 3rd gearing would take some 3.73s atleast. Thanks for your information.
To add to my previous post, I am also running a C5Z06 3.42 diff, if that sheds any light..... .
To add to my previous post, I am also running a C5Z06 3.42 diff, if that sheds any light..... .
Thanks they should have atleast put 3.42s for the performance axle package c5 these autos are more for girl driven cars. 3.42s run roughly 800$ its the whole case and get back the 400$ on the stock 3.15s or 900$ with seals 3.73, 3.90, 4.10 gear at texas drivetrain performance. This thing will drive 70 even 80mph smoothly at low rpms 2200 i notice unattended on the highway so something that would run 2200-2300 at 70mph would be good. What do the 3.42s run at 70 and 80mph?
I had the car tuned on a dynocom 5000 dyno i read are dynoqueens and read the highest numbers. Im looking for someone local with a dynojet or mustang dyno to get a mountain or regular dyno graph in the mid 300hp tq range which would normally keep climing. One is a 98 z26 6 speed with stock 3.42s ported tb, manley dual springs, smaller 218 bullit cam then whats in the c5, i dont have exact specs i paid 120$ for it used on craigslist and was told it was ran in a trailblazer ss so maybe an rv cam and hooker open headers made 375whp 375wtq. The dynocom c5 auto dyno graph looks small but has auto 3.15s, factory mufflers, pac-1219s and the 1830 220/224 cam, tsp headers and a volant oval filter. These were two different tuning shops one was pat g in victoria texas a mustang dyno which is further from where i am now from 2011 with the bullit cam hooker headers z28, later s475 turbo 6lbs truck manifold turbo kit, and lsx performance dyno a week ago for the c5 with tsp headers, bigger elgin cam then what i had in the z28 if you ask me just by the sound of it. Lethal performance was booked for a week so i just went with whatever local lsx tuning shop could fit me in. Someone told me the c5 graph looked lean or that the car was running lean over on hp tuners as the power drops off. He told me it was 12.6-12.7 afr to 6k rpm and set up to run WOT 1/4 mile passes to 6k rpm. It says 368 max hp on the c5 but its hard to say youd have to have a run on another dynojet or mustang dyno and maybe thinking or purchasing the aem 140$ wideband to mount in the exhaust to confirm it is indeed 12.6 afr WOT. With the z28 s475 i put an aem wideband in the downpipe to confirm afr and it was at 11.7 when boosting solidly 11.7. I dont have one on the c5 yet as i didnt think itd be needed but may need to to confirm for tuning issues. Im looking to put better mufflers or straight pipes on the cammed, headers c5. Some pilot autozone 2.5"-3" polished tips would look nice out the back.
Last edited by Justin Raney; Feb 19, 2022 at 11:27 AM.
Thanks they should have atleast put 3.42s for the performance axle package c5 these autos are more for girl driven cars. 3.42s run roughly 800$ its the whole case and get back the 400$ on the stock 3.15s or 900$ with seals 3.73, 3.90, 4.10 gear at texas drivetrain performance. This thing will drive 70 even 80mph smoothly at low rpms 2200 i notice unattended on the highway so something that would run 2200-2300 at 70mph would be good. What do the 3.42s run at 70 and 80mph?
I had the car tuned on a dynocom 5000 dyno i read are dynoqueens and read the highest numbers. Im looking for someone local with a dynojet or mustang dyno to get a mountain or regular dyno graph in the mid 300hp tq range which would normally keep climing. One is a 98 z26 6 speed with stock 3.42s ported tb, manley dual springs, smaller 218 bullit cam then whats in the c5, i dont have exact specs i paid 120$ for it used on craigslist and was told it was ran in a trailblazer ss so maybe an rv cam and hooker open headers made 375whp 375wtq. The dynocom c5 auto dyno graph looks small but has auto 3.15s, factory mufflers, pac-1219s and the 1830 220/224 cam, tsp headers and a volant oval filter. These were two different tuning shops one was pat g in victoria texas a mustang dyno which is further from where i am now from 2011 with the bullit cam hooker headers z28, later s475 turbo 6lbs truck manifold turbo kit, and lsx performance dyno a week ago for the c5 with tsp headers, bigger elgin cam then what i had in the z28 if you ask me just by the sound of it. Lethal performance was booked for a week so i just went with whatever local lsx tuning shop could fit me in. Someone told me the c5 graph looked lean or that the car was running lean over on hp tuners as the power drops off. He told me it was 12.6-12.7 afr to 6k rpm and set up to run WOT 1/4 mile passes to 6k rpm. It says 368 max hp on the c5 but its hard to say youd have to have a run on another dynojet or mustang dyno and maybe thinking or purchasing the aem 140$ wideband to mount in the exhaust to confirm it is indeed 12.6 afr WOT. With the z28 s475 i put an aem wideband in the downpipe to confirm afr and it was at 11.7 when boosting solidly 11.7. I dont have one on the c5 yet as i didnt think itd be needed but may need to to confirm for tuning issues. Im looking to put better mufflers or straight pipes on the cammed, headers c5. Some pilot autozone 2.5"-3" polished tips would look nice out the back.
Im probably going to pass on the air bridge as everyone says they dont add any power and go with something similar to borla stright pipes. As for the gear i may try 3.42s as can sell the stock 3.15 carrier but could end up purchasing a smoked posi and gear set from ebay 3.42s off a z06. I think 3.73s-3.90s would be what id aim for as far as power but the cheaper 3.42 gear set maybe best option.
Im probably going to pass on the air bridge as everyone says they dont add any power and go with something similar to borla stright pipes. As for the gear i may try 3.42s as can sell the stock 3.15 carrier but could end up purchasing a smoked posi and gear set from ebay 3.42s off a z06. I think 3.73s-3.90s would be what id aim for as far as power but the cheaper 3.42 gear set maybe best option.
Yes a 99. I should have went with an 00-04 but they are more expensive. I see the ls6 intake and bigger z06 12mm bolt driveshaft and the rear torque tube bearings are easier to replace.
Yes a 99. I should have went with an 00-04 but they are more expensive. I see the ls6 intake and bigger z06 12mm bolt driveshaft and the rear torque tube bearings are easier to replace.
I may be wrong (we'll know very soon!!), but I'm certain the only airbridge change came in the '01-'04. The only change is in the IAT location, as GM went to the 85mm Z06 sized MAF in all '01-'04 C5s, which contained the IAT sensor, instead of the '97-'00 IAT sensor being in the airbridge. I don't think either style flows any differently than the other.....
I may be wrong (we'll know very soon!!), but I'm certain the only airbridge change came in the '01-'04. The only change is in the IAT location, as GM went to the 85mm Z06 sized MAF in all '01-'04 C5s, which contained the IAT sensor, instead of the '97-'00 IAT sensor being in the airbridge. I don't think either style flows any differently than the other.....
I seen that you can run with 4" ls3 ls7 round delphi chip tunnel maf directly infront of the throttle body 4"-4" coupler as it has both iat and maf sensor on same maf. But there isnt any power gains?