battery and tune
This will help me when starting the car and backing out the driveway or sometimes the yard for carwash the fans wont suck up lawnmower grass into the radiator. It will also kill the battery quick with the key on position.
I had removed the battery to reconnect the stock wires were cut from there relay a light blue and white wire 14volt power wires and a grey and black ground wire were cut just under the fuse box and ran to an external relay that turned the fans on with the key on position by the previous owner. I had posted months ago on this forum some underhood pics of a extra 2 relays just next to the fuse box ran to the fuel pump relay with a power on wire. I took the top off engine bay fuse box and seen the wires were cut 4-5" down from there prong or fuse box relay insert location. I began to undo the old relay as i tested both the white and light blue wire tested 14 volts with the car running at 200 degrees. Now is this light blue and white wire the power wires to the electric fans i seen they read 14 volts at 200+ degrees and the grey and black wire were ground wires he had ran to a frame ground with that shitty 18 gauge signal wire from both coil ground iolet loop wire wrapped around that left me stranded for a while a no spark condition till a forum member pointed me in the right direction of the ground location.
So main thing had removed the battery to put the coolant fan wires back into there stock relay location and when i restarted the car it took multiple attempts would start and die like it was low on fuel. Eventually it started like it was doing idle relearn as they normally do and ran fine. So with that being said by removing battery and doing some minor wire reconnecting theres no way for a stock pcm to go back into a stock tune? Just confirming.
He had the dark blue and green wires ran to the 14 volt white and light blue coolant fan wires and the thick red ground with both the light grey and black ground from coolant fan harness wrapped around with electrical tape and bolted down to the battery ground on the frame. The purple wire was power from the fuse box post. The thin red wire was used to turn the fans on automatically by sticking the open wire into the fuel pump relay prong. It worked but would kill the battery quick and suck in grass when backing out the drive way on the lawn or carwash. The fans now dont come on the low speed one fan at 195 i think maybe 200 and at 201 both fans come on. That is the correct wiring schematic correct. I checked both the grey and black were cut and grounded to the frame and white and light blue were power wires to the coolant fans. When i checked with a voltmeter the red and light blue power wires read 14.6 volts with the car running at 201 degrees so im assuming everythings correct now. Check out this fan relay i guess to have the fans cooling all it had was a dual cone filter, no cats and a tore up torque tube with shotty coil ground, fan wiring. Now to fit a 160 thermostat if its necessary i just purchased a 186 stock thermostat half a year ago when i purchased the car and put fresh coolant 2 times to replace the lower radiator support and do the cam swap. I just had it dynotuned and they adjusted the fans to come on earlier so the dynotune should still be in the pcm once written in the pcm. I used someone else fan wiring schemetic to figure out which relays and confirm they were the correct ones to rewire. Thanks guys
Last edited by Justin Raney; Feb 18, 2022 at 10:05 PM.


