When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know this is an old thread and I'm not trying to revive it...just put in my 2 cents. I also ran into this problem with Smith brothers trunnions. What lead me to suspect something was my oil analysis. After installing the kit, the oil report was showing higher accumutions of copper and tin...basically bronze. This lead me to inspect the trunnions and found the same issue. They were wearing uneven and had bad wobble when seating on the pedestal. The tolerance was done. I called BTR since I bought the kit from them and they told me that there was nothing they can do....I didn't wanted my money back since it has been more than 6 months of ownership, just wanted to give them feedback. Their reply was, "call trh manufacturer " so I did. I contacted Smith Brothers and explained what happened. I got the most stubborn and condescending reply, and was told that I do not know what I was talking about and I was doing something wrong. Additionally, I tried leaving feedback on the vendor website but was deleted.
With all this said, Smith Brothers trunnions are a waste of money!!!
That's sad. When a product fails, and as a consumer, you try to give feedback on how they could, perhaps, improve the product, only to be insulted on your IQ level. Packard Motorcar Company started exactly that way, when Packard told Alexander Winton how he could improve the car J.W. Packard just bought from him. Also, to respond to@leadfoot4, youre right-Once the OEM needle bearings are removed, theres no going back!! Anyway, this tells me one thing: Smith Brothers makes good pushrods, and should maybe stick to only that product. Put another way; just because you make good pushrods doesn't automatically qualify you as a quality trunnion manufacturer!!!
I know this is an old thread and I'm not trying to revive it...just put in my 2 cents. I also ran into this problem with Smith brothers trunnions. What lead me to suspect something was my oil analysis. After installing the kit, the oil report was showing higher accumutions of copper and tin...basically bronze. This lead me to inspect the trunnions and found the same issue. They were wearing uneven and had bad wobble when seating on the pedestal. The tolerance was done. I called BTR since I bought the kit from them and they told me that there was nothing they can do....I didn't wanted my money back since it has been more than 6 months of ownership, just wanted to give them feedback. Their reply was, "call trh manufacturer " so I did. I contacted Smith Brothers and explained what happened. I got the most stubborn and condescending reply, and was told that I do not know what I was talking about and I was doing something wrong. Additionally, I tried leaving feedback on the vendor website but was deleted.
With all this said, Smith Brothers trunnions are a waste of money!!!
The latest BTR trunnions are captured roller bearings, BTR V2. The best features of the GM stock trunnions, without the shortcomings of the stock design.
The latest BTR trunnions are captured roller bearings, BTR V2. The best features of the GM stock trunnions, without the shortcomings of the stock design.
You may remember I installed these about 4,000 miles ago. So far, no issues, and there shouldn't be! After what happened with the Comp junk, Im sorry I ever changed the OEM stuff. As you said, once the OEM trunnions are out, there's no turning back, unless you order new rocker arms from GM.......IF they still make them.......
I will keep my original designed GM Needle bearings and If and when one fails simply flush engine and install a new GM rocker.
The failure rate of the originals is Highly over hyped in my opinion. My originals are still running strong in my engine even after I had to rebuild the engine due to a Failed rod bearing 115,000 miles on them now.
I think most of the hype comes from people running bigger cams then necessary and higher spring pressures than the cam needs. So many people underestimate the benefits of a light beehive springs made of good materials.
That being said, I see no need to change mine until something happens. I have a stock cam LS6 with PAC 1218 springs and my rev limiter is set to 7400rpm. After 2 years of track abuse mine are all fine still.
I think most of the hype comes from people running bigger cams then necessary and higher spring pressures than the cam needs. So many people underestimate the benefits of a light beehive springs made of good materials.
That being said, I see no need to change mine until something happens. I have a stock cam LS6 with PAC 1218 springs and my rev limiter is set to 7400rpm. After 2 years of track abuse mine are all fine still.
I totally agree with you. I once had some AFR 225 heads, set up incorrectly by AFR. The installed height was between .080"-.090" too short, making Comp 26921 dual valve springs even stiffer than they should've been!! Drove the car 30,000 miles like that, and never had any of the OEM trunnion needles fail/come out......
It's hard to not feel like the PAC dual springs are a bit much for a number of applications and I seriously considered some PAC 1218 beehive springs when I rebuilt this motor but in the end it seemed EVERYONE I talked to recommended not going with the 1218's with a 233/239 cam. I also can't say or believe my dual springs contributed to my valve float issue that caused this whole mess to begin with. But clearly these springs were too stiff for the smith bros. trunions. I have it all back together after a total rebuild and it's running great, yet with only about 400 miles of break in so far. It was fun to build an engine again as it had been a few years, but I would have rather spent the money elsewhere of course.
Here are some fun motor **** pics just to feel good. My poor garage was tied up for 2 months while my wife's SUV sat outside - she was none too pleased about it. But sacrifices must be made by all at times.
I took the time to ensure every step was documented with photos, and each bolt was marked after final torque / angle so that I could calm my OCD when I would panic trying to remember if I torqued every bolt correctly. It was a great project and it gave me the bug to build engines again. If I never have to pull one from a C5 through the top on jack stands again it will be too soon however! haha
I took the time to ensure every step was documented with photos, and each bolt was marked after final torque / angle so that I could calm my OCD when I would panic trying to remember if I torqued every bolt correctly. It was a great project and it gave me the bug to build engines again. If I never have to pull one from a C5 through the top on jack stands again it will be too soon however! haha
Did you get the old version? Your link goes to TK001NB (no bolts ?), the newer version is TK002. Don’t panic, but check your actual part number. They sell both kits.
They are definitely the V1 set. They were hard to find last winter and after scouring LS1tech for info I was comfortable with them. I bought the parts over a few months before starting the build. As the motor went in the car BTR had just released his shaft mount setup and I almost picked it up, but didn’t. Although when it’s time to change the springs I’m confident I won’t be able to resist putting the shaft mount system on.
They are definitely the V1 set. They were hard to find last winter and after scouring LS1tech for info I was comfortable with them. I bought the parts over a few months before starting the build. As the motor went in the car BTR had just released his shaft mount setup and I almost picked it up, but didn’t. Although when it’s time to change the springs I’m confident I won’t be able to resist putting the shaft mount system on.
Not raining on your parade, but the reason Tooley went to the 002 version was due to problems with the 001 version you have......
