Headers vs Tune vs ??
So as you know I recently hit the 90K mark a week ago after purchasing on 2/9/2022. The vehicle is basically stock as far as I can tell and it looks like the only thing a PO did was replace the stereo HU and add a Borla Catback. I still have some regular fluid maintenance to get done as I have only changed the oil a few days ago. I stiil need to flush the water as the water currently has an orangeish color looking as the see thru reservoir. Changing the tranny fluid I might just let GM or one of those lube places do it. PS fluid is simple enough for me to do. Any suggestions on anything I might be missing?
Once done I would like to add a set of headers for better performance or maybe just put a programming tune (non dyno) on it. Is there any performance (HP) gained by a simple header install versus a programming tune or is a programming tune an optimal solution? If it is a tune then what should I be looking at in terms of program module. I will also be changing out the CAI to an aftermarket for better performance along with some injector cleaner. This is my weekend driver so I don't need a major increase in HP. I just want a fuel efficient vehicle with a little more power and that will pass the California inspections. Any and all ideas or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks you and cheers!!!
. So just with the screw I get 650 instant HP! How sweet that sounds. Ka ching. Cheers!!!





I am not a big supercharger guy but if I were in California, I'd do C6Z manifolds / cats, mild cam, and a 50 state legal supercharger. A&A is in California and would know what you can do.
Headers without a tune would net more than a tune on a stock car or stock with other bolt on, cold air etc. I'd do your bolt on mods with headers or C6z manifolds and then the tune.
Headers and exhaust systems mods before the outlet of the final cat must have CARB approval and EO number, and it must be stamped into the parts or on a permanently attached tag of of some kind.
OP- headers alone don't net much of a HP gain in an otherwise stock car. You'll need the tune to complete the addition of the headers.
I suggest a rear gear upgrade over headers. Especially in CA. Of course it's even better to do both. With steeper gears you'll get immediate seat of the pants improvement and the car will be much more fun to drive. Plus the gears are nothing to worrry about with DMV..
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. So just with the screw I get 650 instant HP! How sweet that sounds. Ka ching. Cheers!!!OP- headers alone don't net much of a HP gain in an otherwise stock car. You'll need the tune to complete the addition of the headers.
I suggest a rear gear upgrade over headers. Especially in CA. Of course it's even better to do both. With steeper gears you'll get immediate seat of the pants improvement and the car will be much more fun to drive. Plus the gears are nothing to worrry about with DMV..
), so here's what I would do. Research and buy some CARB approved and/or EO long tube headers, and install the entire exhaust system exactly compliant with what CARB says is approved. Then, I'd spring for a Diablospirt Trinity, or equivalent, to download your OEM tune. Then, go to a good tune shop, and get a dyno tune. The Diablo Trinity will come in handy for a lot of things, especially every year when the time comes to pass smog again. At that point, you upload the OEM tune back into the PCM the day of smog testing, the switch back to the performance tune after you pass. I'm sure this would give you what you want. My '00 A4 vert ran a 12.89@110mph thru stock exhaust manifolds with a tune. My .02, and best of luck.......Thanks for all the feedback/suggestions people!
@Bruss Yes sir you are correct. I found that out on another forum. I will check the rad to see if it's and aftermarket or OEM. Thanks.
@C6_Racer_X Correct on the non factory tunes and that is what my DMV and smog inspection people told me. Said if it's CARB sticker or CARB exempt, it will pass but not a tune. Thanks.
@Johnny Hardcore Yes on the gearing. I have 4.11's on my Camaro and El Camino. I will probably start with 3.73's then go from there. Don't want them too steep as I will be doing some freeway driving on tours. Thanks.
@grinder11 Good question on the "screw". I'm an oldtimer and we used to call superchargers and turbochargers back in my day. Now that I know I can achieve what I want as long as its CARB approved, I will stick to CARB approved performance mods so that DMV is happy. Yes I thought about a tune as well even though my DMV peeps said not to do but me being me, as long as I can performance tune it and save the OEM tune and reload it back just before inspection time (every 2 years) I will be happy.
In general, now that I know there are CARB approved Turbo and Super chargers to be had I will probably just do that and be happy (but in reality you all know that ain't gonna happen cause the go fast bug will hit me for more!) But before I do that I do need to get a baseline log of HP and TRQ so I know what I am starting with. As far as the Dyno is concerned I am not a pro Dyno guy even though I had that done long ago to my 68 Camaro and 71 Elky. But the C5 has just 90K miles on it and I am concerned that those mega pulls would do more harm than good. But if that's the only way to get a "real" baseline then I guess I will have to bite the bullet and get her done.
Again thanks to all, cheers!!!l
The ONLY power steering fluid I will use is Red Line full synthetic which is stable at the high temperatures PS fluid runs at even on the street. Syringe it out and put new in at EVERY engine oil change.
If everything is stock as I suspect then I would say she has a 4L60E since it's an auto trans and probably 2.73 gearing. I will check the RPO codes to confirm and get back on this. Up to this point I have been just trying to start a maintenance procedure on her starting with the fluids. Only a ittle over 500 miles on her since buying a month ago so I do need to pull the RPO's and check them out. Cheers...
Check the glove compartment door for the numbers which indicate how the car was equipped.
Mine was an A4, 3.15 rear drive ratio. I later replaced the rear drive because a bearing began failing at Buttonwillow Raceway in 2016--with a 3.73 rear drive ratio and WaveTrac differential. This change made an enormous difference in acceleration. But the mileage dropped by 2 mpg as a result of the change.
Seven years and eleven track days later I would not go back to 3.15.
I won't hold that against you...lol. We all took the same oath and served our country with distinction. So you went to Laughlin? That is across from my property and house in Bullhead City. Got a few acres there but only go there during the cold seasons. Anyway, I will be checking the glove box later today as I am going to be cleaning her up from the weekend use before putting her back in her room and cover her up till next weekend. Cheers!!!





OP- headers alone don't net much of a HP gain in an otherwise stock car. You'll need the tune to complete the addition of the headers.
I suggest a rear gear upgrade over headers. Especially in CA. Of course it's even better to do both. With steeper gears you'll get immediate seat of the pants improvement and the car will be much more fun to drive. Plus the gears are nothing to worrry about with DMV..
Well I just found out from a member here tblu92 that as of July 2021 vehicles 2007 or newer with a tune will not pass smog inspection so I should be safe. So for now I will focus on equipment mods that are CARB certified in order to pass inspections without a hassle. My original approach was to get a tune and then replace it with the OEM tune for inspections but now since I don't need to do that it makes things easier. Yay!!
Cheers!!
I "knew a guy" at DMV and got new stickers for $75.












