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I'm going to replace cam sensor o-ring and oil pressure sender and figured I'd ask if I should do anything else while intake is off. I searched and someone said, "do the knock sensors while intake is off". Do what to them? Car has 52K miles. Would you replace all intake gaskets? I know they are "reusable" but they are also 20 years old.
I'm going to replace cam sensor o-ring and oil pressure sender and figured I'd ask if I should do anything else while intake is off. I searched and someone said, "do the knock sensors while intake is off". Do what to them? Car has 52K miles. Would you replace all intake gaskets? I know they are "reusable" but they are also 20 years old.
There's never been a V8 intake easier to remove than the LS engines!! If I were you, I'd leave the KR sensors alone if theyre working. Do your cam sensor O-ring and sender. As easy as the intake is to R&R, it's not that big of deal if you have to go back in to replace the KR sensors in a year, or two, or three.
TIP!!!!
Some guys use clothes pins to hold some of the intake manifold bolts up so they don't get caught on other things as you pull/lift the intake forward to remove, and push/lift it back on reinstall. Once you remove the intake, you'll wonder why anyone ever bored a hole thru their cowl to access the oil sender!! I'd also replace all 8 intake port O-rings on the manifold. BTW, speaking of oil sender, I'd recommend buying an aftermarket sender. The OEM senders arent that great. Make sure you find the torque value for the oil sender, and torque it to that correct value, with a torque wrench. Same for the intake bolts, which are 106 lbs/inch, IIRC.......
I’d replace the valley cover gasket, valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, and any pcv hoses that are known to get so hot they become brittle. I’d also consider sending out your injectors for inspection and cleaning.
Be careful with the vacuum line on the back of the intake.
There's never been a V8 intake easier to remove than the LS engines!! If I were you, I'd leave the KR sensors alone if theyre working. Do your cam sensor O-ring and sender. As easy as the intake is to R&R, it's not that big of deal if you have to go back in to replace the KR sensors in a year, or two, or three.
TIP!!!!
Some guys use clothes pins to hold some of the intake manifold bolts up so they don't get caught on other things as you pull/lift the intake forward to remove, and push/lift it back on reinstall. Once you remove the intake, you'll wonder why anyone ever bored a hole thru their cowl to access the oil sender!! I'd also replace all 8 intake port O-rings on the manifold. BTW, speaking of oil sender, I'd recommend buying an aftermarket sender. The OEM senders arent that great. Make sure you find the torque value for the oil sender, and torque it to that correct value, with a torque wrench. Same for the intake bolts, which are 106 lbs/inch, IIRC.......
1997- 2000 LS 1 engines had coolant air bleed ports (sometimes called steam ports) on both front and rear of the heads. For whatever reason, GM eliminated the rear port lines on 2001 forward, although the ports are still in the heads, just not connected. There are tales that assign the cause of # 7 cylinder failure on track to the lack of the rear head coolant air bleed lines on 2001 and later cars.
Many of us who run our 2001 and later C5s on track have reconnected the rear head ports while the intake is off to eliminate that possibility. Run 1/4" hose around the passenger side valve cover to connect.
Also an opportunity to install insulation between the intake manifold bottom and valley to reduce heat transfer into the intake manifold and incoming fuel/air charge.
1997- 2000 LS 1 engines had coolant air bleed ports (sometimes called steam ports) on both front and rear of the heads. For whatever reason, GM eliminated the rear port lines on 2001 forward, although the ports are still in the heads, just not connected. There are tales that assign the cause of # 7 cylinder failure on track to the lack of the rear head coolant air bleed lines on 2001 and later cars.
Many of us who run our 2001 and later C5s on track have reconnected the rear head ports while the intake is off to eliminate that possibility. Run 1/4" hose around the passenger side valve cover to connect.
Also an opportunity to install insulation between the intake manifold bottom and valley to reduce heat transfer into the intake manifold and incoming fuel/air charge.
Interesting. So I could buy something like in the pic below and run that? Any drawbacks to installing this?
Without cutting clearance on the bottom of the manifold, the line from the rear to the front ports cannot go underneath the manifold. I used a 2001 and later front unit, cut it to add hose for flexibility and ran the connecting line from the tee on the front unit (installed at the rear ports) around the passenger side valve cover to then join with the front coolant air bleed line before it connects to the radiator.
Good time to bypass the throttle body because the front coolant air bleed line goes through the throttle body before attaching to the radiator.
Without cutting clearance on the bottom of the manifold, the line from the rear to the front ports cannot go underneath the manifold. I used a 2001 and later front unit, cut it to add hose for flexibility and ran the connecting line from the tee on the front unit (installed at the rear ports) around the passenger side valve cover to then join with the front coolant air bleed line before it connects to the radiator.
Good time to bypass the throttle body because the front coolant air bleed line goes through the throttle body before attaching to the radiator.
Interesting you had to make clearance. When I bought an LS6 intake new from GM in 2004 for my '00 vert, I just bolted it on with the OEM bolts, and cut no clearance in anything on the intake. Never had a problem with that setup. Like everything, could be some cars stack up/accumulated error tolerances are enough different than others to work properly as-is........
1997- 2000 LS 1 engines had coolant air bleed ports (sometimes called steam ports) on both front and rear of the heads. For whatever reason, GM eliminated the rear port lines on 2001 forward, although the ports are still in the heads, just not connected. There are tales that assign the cause of # 7 cylinder failure on track to the lack of the rear head coolant air bleed lines on 2001 and later cars.
Many of us who run our 2001 and later C5s on track have reconnected the rear head ports while the intake is off to eliminate that possibility. Run 1/4" hose around the passenger side valve cover to connect.
Also an opportunity to install insulation between the intake manifold bottom and valley to reduce heat transfer into the intake manifold and incoming fuel/air charge.
Can you please expand on the "insulation under the intake"? This is worth consideration.
Thanks very much, I’m getting ready to install a LS6 intake on my 99 and was leaning towards the plugs for the rear ports, and after reading this will definitely be doing what you just described. So my only question is i already bypassed the TB and had that line from the front connecting to the radiator. So i would just insert a T in that line to connect both the front and rear lines to the radiator?
Here is the part i was looking at, for both the front and rear ports.
The coolant crossover from ZIP is the one I used, the one from Summit is different, does not have a tee. I had to cut the one I used and insert a short piece of hose with clamps to obtain the needed flexibility.
Yes. a tee in the line to the radiator that goes from the bypassed throttle body to the radiator.
Might be a bit more expensive, but you could search for the OEM 4 steam port hard line. They pop up in the parts for sale section every once in awhile......
Replace the secondary AIR check valve that is bolted the the back of the driver's side head---it is right near the Oil presser sender. I would also recommend installing an oil pressure sender relocation kit
This relocates the sender to under the coil cover so if it ever fails again you will not have to pull the intake to do it.
Can you please expand on the "insulation under the intake"? This is worth consideration.
Thanks
TC
I'm not sure what the other poster does, but I also recommend some thermal control while the intake is off.
I usually apply a single layer of stick on "HVAC duct insulation" like FrostKing FV516 (available at Lowes or from Amazon) to the top of the valley cover.
I also apply a good primer that bonds well to plastic to the manifold itself (tape over the head mounting surfaces and the throttle body opening) and follow that up with a layer of VHT "Flame Proof" exhaust paint (because it's high in ceramic content and is a thermal barrier type paint). You can use the black paint for a "stealth" look (looks almost stock), or you can use "aluminum" and people will ask you where you got the cast aluminum LS intake from.
With both, you'll see a slight rise in long term fuel trims from cooler, denser air. It won't show on the IAT, but the fuel trims will adjust to more oxygen from cooler,denser air entering the cylinders.
I am confused. I watched one video that said to torque the intake bolts to 89 while this one says torque to 106. What is the correct torque for the intake bolts on 2002 corvette?
I am confused. I watched one video that said to torque the intake bolts to 89 while this one says torque to 106. What is the correct torque for the intake bolts on 2002 corvette?