Curious, my previous 4-28-2022 post on this topic mysteriously disappeared.

I decided to change the clutch oil using the flush method that is explained in the Video instead of the Ranger Method I have been doing for several years.


Like a previous member’s comment, I was hesitant to do the flush method because of the possibly of air in the line issue. But deciding I would take every process known to mankind not to let it happen (followed the video instructions), I jumped in and did it.

Conclusion: This process was very easy after doing the ‘drilling’ of the nipple that the video explained. Although I did not get the dirty oil that the video showed, I was surprised by the amount of ‘dirt’ oil that came out only after approximately 4K miles when my mechanic did a flush. The only thing I changed from the video was not putting a drop of super glue in the connection between the line and the drilled nipple. Just did not want to have any possibility of some foreign matter get into the line. I just made sure the hole I drilled was small and very tight for the line to be inserted.

I have included this process in my annual DIY maintenance schedule.

 

Very informative and cost effective! Thanks for posting the info and the video.

 

This is a great idea! Going to try it soon. Didn't love the logic behind the ranger method even though it's very straight forward.

 

x2 !!

 

Unfortunately after looking at the design of the system, I think you're bottoming out at the master cylinder. So you're effectively cleaning the small section of hose between the reservoir and the master cylinder (including some of the fluid inside the MC).

 

It isn't necessary for the hose to go all the way down to the slave to flush out most of the yuck.

 

The slave cylinder is the junction where the clutch dust “yuck” comes from.

 

Right

 

I have a speed bleeder.
I first suck out all fluid with baster, wipe bottom good.
Add fluid and pump and fill with someone to fluid is clean, bleed, top off.
5 minutes.

 

Think so? There's probably another 2 feet of clutch line in front of the master cylinder that have "yuck" in it.. not sure how this would flush all of that.

 

I'm not saying it is a better method than a speed bleeder for thoroughly flushing the system out, but for anyone without a speed bleeder, it is much better than just changing out the fluid in the MC (ranger method), and does force much more of the yuck (clutch dust) out, even below the depth of the hose.

 

I’ll give it a try, I usually change the reservoir out anyway with oil changes.

 

Yes agree with that. I just got really excited at first thinking this was getting down to the slave.

 

Looks like you posted the same thread twice on 4/27/22 and I deleted one of the threads. It appears that when I was in the process of deleting the duplicate thread, another Moderator was working on deleting the other thread as a duplicate. So, both threads ended up getting removed. Sorry about that.

Moving this thread to C5 Tech though.

 

Thanks Jack for the reply. I tried to delete one post but could not. Now I know how both post's were deleted. Stuff happens.

 

Any method shy of having a speed bleeder is a futile attempt and only serves to make you feel better.

Spend the time/money to install a speed bleeder if you plan to keep the car and to keep the hydraulics alive/healthy.

 

I am good for a "feel better" . Like changing engine oil every 2500 miles or 12 months.

 

Two different things there...this half baked "flush" of the clutch fluid barely helps and only serves to feel accomplished seeing clean fluid in the reservoir. Changing engine oil 2500mi/12mo may be overly proactive but IS useful lol

To make the engine oil comparison equal would be like only changing your filter and whatever oil happen to come out at that time is your "oil change/flush" lol.

 

OK, here are 2 articles on oil changes. The old standard for oil changes using sythenictic oil does not apply. If you do anyway, it is a 'fell good moment",. Not a problem.

Here are two articles on Oil changes involving synthetic oil.

How Often To Change Synthetic Oil | The Drive
How Often Should You Change Synthetic Oil?

I have told this story before on oil changes. Back in the late 50's and early 60's, a neighbor was a Ford Executive that traveled extensively. He was given a car to drive for several years and told not to change the oil and only change the filter addling oil only when necessary it met recommended levels. After several years of driving, his car's engine was broken down and compared to one with only one year of driving. There was minimal difference in the wear factor.

It is the owners choice for oil changes. Feel good is an important part of that choice. JMHO.

. .

 

"...the 50s and 60s...?!"