My friend came with his 1998 on a trailer to my doorstep for help .
The car was running fine but suddenly it does not run at all , only start and shakes and dies after a few seconds ( if it starts )
I have measured the presure at the manifoil to be steady approx 60 psi and holding steady pressure
Here is a video of a start attempt . At the same time I try to measure the secondary voltage to one of the plugs with my GTC 500 (no voltage at all)
Here a of how the secondary voltage to the plug appear at once ( approx 7 kV) when I start my own car
There is no DTC codes that should this engine shutdown in my opinion from the PCM

I measured the voltagedrop above the ignitionswitch to be less than 0.2 volt



I did a check of the thottle by pressing the pedal to to the floor and the TPS 1 and TPS 2 signal seems to move correctly ( no error codes from the TAC module/TPS system



Here I compare the 1998 RPM with my 2000 when starting the cars and the 98 does does not seems to fire on more than one or two cylinders when it runs roughly for a few seconds with the slow increase in rpm compared to my own car .
It seems to me that somethink is preventing the ignition coils to fire the plugs .

I measured secondary voltage to 3 different plugs and measured zero secondary voltage to all of these three plugs .

Does anyone has a good advice on where to go next ?

 

Hey O !!
Check the crank sensor signal wire with a scope while cranking and starting…see if you see 12 volts and then gets pulled to ground !!

 

Thanks Rob .

I will try to scope the sensor signal tomorrow and report back

 

It was a sunny day outsidemy house n my part of Norway today and I was able to scope the Crank sensor signal with my scope wih piercing probes
This is a Hall effect sensor as far as i Know




I tried to put together alle scvreenshots from my scanner into one looong picture and hopefully is understandble , if no I with my phone also .
After cranking some seconds it seems to fire on some few cylinders some more seconds before the engine died . The signal from the crank sensor seems very unstable and


This kind of change in signal amplitude and signal outlook indicates to me a "sick "crank sensor that needs to be replaced , agree ?




Finally I put some liquid tape on the piercing points of the three wires

 

Yes, it is a 3 wire Hall Effect Sensor…the signal at one point looked around 7 volts and that’s not enough for the PCM to process correctly.

 

Thanks for your confirmation rob.

I´ll get my friend to order a new crank sensor

I played around with my own car a couple of years ago and I see my crank signal is switching 0 to 5 volts while my camshaft sensor switch between 0 and 12 volt

 

Both should be 0-12 volts !!

 

I'll double check it on my own car later , maybe my settings was wrong regarding my own cranksignal measurements, thanks for your reply

I have been busy upgrading my tires and rear fenders these last months