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I'm getting a "check engine" light, again, for my AIR check valves. Is there a "maintenance procedure", one that lasts, to clean these things? I started getting the CEL about 4-5 years ago, tried some throttle body cleaner into the air inlet tube, and that worked for a little while, but the light came back on. I bit the bullet and installed new check valves, and it was OK for a while. The light came on, late last season, just before I parked the car for the winter. It was OK, for the last month, or so, now the lights are on, again.
My annual state safety/emissions inspection will be due next month, and the car won't pass, with the light on. Is there a "sure cure" for this problem?
The sure cure is to remove the two check valves, the air pump, the hoses and cap off the two openings on the exhaust manifolds; then tune out all three error codes with something like HP Tuners so they never come back on. Or you could just tune out the code and leave all the plumbing in place. Not long after I replaced the check valves, the air pump stopped and they are no longer available for a '98 so the parts were removed. It's nice to have more room to change spark plugs without all that plumbing in the way.
I had a similar experience, such a POS system when it can't last worth a crap. This is what I posted in a different thread last year:
Originally Posted by MetalMan2
'01 Z06 here. I replaced both check valves about 2 years ago (~60k miles) with AC Delco units (P/N 214-1045). Almost exactly 2 years later (73k miles) P1416 has recurred. I never tried "cleaning" but would rather just replace. Contemplating relocation since apparently this failure is common...
EDIT: I tried cleaning both check valves by hand (I actually tackled relocation of the passenger check valve), and P1416 came back 180 miles later. Replaced the passenger side check valve again...
Ideally, when this issue crops up we would be able to remove the check valve(s) from the car, and spray carb cleaner through them directly or replace if necessary. As mentioned in the quote above I relocated the passenger side check valve, and you can find more details here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1603871472
Anybody have an idea as to which code is for the right bank valve, and which is for the left bank? The factory shop manual talks about "check valve DTCs", but doesn't say which is which, and neither does the DTC....
(guess which one of mine, is the one showing the error code???)
Surely it's P1416, passenger side that's behind the intake manifold. This one seems more prone to failure based on Google searching, as well as my own experience. Hence why I did the relocation that I shared previously.
Pouring different concoctions down the hose to free up a stuck check valve doesn't always work, and if it does it's just a stop-gap repair if it does. It's akin to hitting a malfunctioning starter with a stick and calling it fixed.
I replaced my right side check valve then cut it open to see what was going on. The diaphragm was welded (stuck) closed and I had to peel it off the inside of the valve's body itself. I recommend fixing it the right way.
Pouring different concoctions down the hose to free up a stuck check valve doesn't always work, and if it does it's just a stop-gap repair if it does. It's akin to hitting a malfunctioning starter with a stick and calling it fixed.
I replaced my right side check valve then cut it open to see what was going on. The diaphragm was welded (stuck) closed and I had to peel it off the inside of the valve's body itself. I recommend fixing it the right way.
I agree, but it's frustrating to me, as the owner of a 29,000 mile car, that already has had the valves replaced once, to be dealing with this issue yet again. While nonetheless annoying, at least if the RH valve was as accessible as the LH, it wouldn't be quite as annoying.
Are there any negative implications of removing the air system?
Only if you live in a state that runs OBD2 emissions check. You will fail without the AIR system. There are absolutely 0 negatives to removing it and the emissions benefit is far outweighed by the cost to keep the system operating 20+ years later.
Replacement of left (passenger side) air intake vslve
Do you havevto remove the intake manifold to replace it? Can it be responsible for a PO410 code if air pump is audibly turning on for 2 minutes on a cold start up? I replaced the driver side intake valve.Thanks for any reply.
Do you havevto remove the intake manifold to replace it? Can it be responsible for a PO410 code if air pump is audibly turning on for 2 minutes on a cold start up? I replaced the driver side intake valve.Thanks for any reply.
P0410 suggests that both banks are impacted. Common denominators for both banks are the PCM, AIR shut off valve, AIR pump, AIR valve solenoid, AIR pump relay, and associated tubing. Since you said the pump is running, that excludes the PCM output to the relay, AIR pump, and AIR pump relay. That leaves the PCM output to the AIR solenoid, AIR solenoid valve, AIR shut off valve, and associated tubing. The shut off valve is vacuum operated through the AIR solenoid when the pump is running.
Last edited by lucky131969; Apr 20, 2024 at 01:38 PM.
ThanksLucky for response- Vaccuum lines and Solenoid checked out by mechanic and working ok- I may hae to remove manifold and replace the ther Intake Valve it looks like a lot of work at=head.
ThanksLucky for response- Vaccuum lines and Solenoid checked out by mechanic and working ok- I may hae to remove manifold and replace the ther Intake Valve it looks like a lot of work at=head.
Trying to save you unnecessary work here partner. That code is for both banks, not just one. If you had a single valve failure, you would have a P1415 or P1416. Great that the solenoid is working, and there is vacuum at the shut off valve, that does not mean the shut off valve is working, or the AIR tubing from the shut off valve to the connection is not leaking.
Lucky
Thanks- your insight is very helpful.
Is there a part number for replacement of the shut off valve? Can the mechanic test the shut off valve prior to replacing it?
Lucky
Thanks- your insight is very helpful.
Is there a part number for replacement of the shut off valve? Can the mechanic test the shut off valve prior to replacing it?
Very easy to test from underneath the car. Disconnect the large tube from the valve when the pump is running and you should feel air from the valve. If air is not flowing, check vacuum to the valve it self (small line in pic posted). If there is vacuum, and the valve does not open, the valve is bad. Last part number I had was 12558524.
Lucky,There is air coming out from tube when air pump runs at disconnected passenger side tube at Intake valve.So I will have mechanic check vacuum system off air pump location- ( from earlier picture location on pump) Thanks again- getting closer to resolution
Dave B
Lucky,There is air coming out from tube when air pump runs at disconnected passenger side tube at Intake valve.So I will have mechanic check vacuum system off air pump location- ( from earlier picture location on pump) Thanks again- getting closer to resolution
Dave B