Clutch recommendations for a base C5?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 127
Likes: 15
From: California
Clutch recommendations for a base C5?
Related to my other thread. Clutch loses hydraulic pressure & puts car halfway back in gear. Replacing master in a few days but preparing to do a full clutch job if it turns out to be the slave cylinder.
I Need the aftermarket clutch to be:
-street performance type of clutch
-lighter than stock
-sturdy (can take daily redline shifts, drift few times a week , burnouts etc )
-not ride too jumpy
-not too expensive
I think the bite point on the stock c5 clutch is too wide and the revs rise/drop too slow. Find myself slowing my shifts down to match the revs proper. However I don't want to have to work surgically precise with my left foot to just keep the engine from stalling. Just a bit less than stock on this part would be perfect.
Of course I don't expect anybody to go look for an exact clutch like this that would fit all the points I listed, but maybe this would help someone give a few quick recommendations for good brands or specific clutch.
I know a lot of people put in the ls7 clutch in the c5 but I read that it's heavier, that's the opposite of what I need.
Thank you guys so much , so far the help I've gotten from the community with the issue I've been having is outstanding . Very glad I joined this forum
I Need the aftermarket clutch to be:
-street performance type of clutch
-lighter than stock
-sturdy (can take daily redline shifts, drift few times a week , burnouts etc )
-not ride too jumpy
-not too expensive
I think the bite point on the stock c5 clutch is too wide and the revs rise/drop too slow. Find myself slowing my shifts down to match the revs proper. However I don't want to have to work surgically precise with my left foot to just keep the engine from stalling. Just a bit less than stock on this part would be perfect.
Of course I don't expect anybody to go look for an exact clutch like this that would fit all the points I listed, but maybe this would help someone give a few quick recommendations for good brands or specific clutch.
I know a lot of people put in the ls7 clutch in the c5 but I read that it's heavier, that's the opposite of what I need.
Thank you guys so much , so far the help I've gotten from the community with the issue I've been having is outstanding . Very glad I joined this forum
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,956
Likes: 520
From: Da U.P.
My 2 suggestions are aluminum flywheel with new stock Luk clutch to maintain stock pedal effort or a Spec Stage 1 (which I have) 10.5" with aluminum fw/pp. It's 20# lighter than stock, the RPMs drop much quicker, but the first 3 gears pull noticeably harder. The C7 multidisc setup likely offers a similar return, but I can't speak to it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 127
Likes: 15
From: California
Yes, I did think about this, definitely will get lighter flywheel when I get clutch done
Rst clutch I looked at it, it's a good clutch, but twin disk clutch that can take up to 800 hp is too much, I don't plan on putting a big turbo under the hood or nothin.. However still might do it, tempting fs
Any downsides to over-clutching the car ? If it's really that good extra $500 won't hurt
And how do I make sure that the flywheel I pick matches the clutch?
Rst clutch I looked at it, it's a good clutch, but twin disk clutch that can take up to 800 hp is too much, I don't plan on putting a big turbo under the hood or nothin.. However still might do it, tempting fs
Any downsides to over-clutching the car ? If it's really that good extra $500 won't hurt
And how do I make sure that the flywheel I pick matches the clutch?
Last edited by acefominC5; Jul 24, 2022 at 11:21 AM.
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,583
Likes: 7,255
From: CT
Bear with my logic on this one.
Clutch change on these cars is not easy or quick.
You sought factory feel or lighter. RST provides this.
You mention beating on the drivetrain, but then counter my suggestion saying this clutch is rated to 800hp as though thay were a bad thing. Lighter feel, more capacity to hold is a good combo.
I run one in my daily driver 99 coupe. For about 40k miles it also had 10psi and 500rw. For the next 35-40k it has been NA. Never an issue with the clutch. Though when NA I did manage to shear the 10mm bolts at the rear of the driveshaft. Thr clutch is still ok. All the launches, highway pulls, all the torturous stop/go traffic and commuting for 7 years and that bugger is still going strong.
That's why I recommended it.
In the 99 it is paired with a Fidanza lightweight aluminum (11#) flywheel. I have an RXT going in my Z06 build which has a McLeod lightweight steel (13.5#) flywheel. Both better than factory which was close to 24#. If you have not used a lightweight piece before and you enjoy quick shifting or insta-rev match going through twisties you will love it.
Of course, results may vary. And there are other competent clutches out there.
Clutch change on these cars is not easy or quick.
You sought factory feel or lighter. RST provides this.
You mention beating on the drivetrain, but then counter my suggestion saying this clutch is rated to 800hp as though thay were a bad thing. Lighter feel, more capacity to hold is a good combo.
I run one in my daily driver 99 coupe. For about 40k miles it also had 10psi and 500rw. For the next 35-40k it has been NA. Never an issue with the clutch. Though when NA I did manage to shear the 10mm bolts at the rear of the driveshaft. Thr clutch is still ok. All the launches, highway pulls, all the torturous stop/go traffic and commuting for 7 years and that bugger is still going strong.
That's why I recommended it.
In the 99 it is paired with a Fidanza lightweight aluminum (11#) flywheel. I have an RXT going in my Z06 build which has a McLeod lightweight steel (13.5#) flywheel. Both better than factory which was close to 24#. If you have not used a lightweight piece before and you enjoy quick shifting or insta-rev match going through twisties you will love it.
Of course, results may vary. And there are other competent clutches out there.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 389
Likes: 76
From: Chicago
Yes, I did think about this, definitely will get lighter flywheel when I get clutch done
Rst clutch I looked at it, it's a good clutch, but twin disk clutch that can take up to 800 hp is too much, I don't plan on putting a big turbo under the hood or nothin.. However still might do it, tempting fs
Any downsides to over-clutching the car ? If it's really that good extra $500 won't hurt
And how do I make sure that the flywheel I pick matches the clutch?
Rst clutch I looked at it, it's a good clutch, but twin disk clutch that can take up to 800 hp is too much, I don't plan on putting a big turbo under the hood or nothin.. However still might do it, tempting fs
Any downsides to over-clutching the car ? If it's really that good extra $500 won't hurt
And how do I make sure that the flywheel I pick matches the clutch?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 127
Likes: 15
From: California
Down side is your going to be kicking yourself in the *** when you decide to mod later. Many clutches out there that feel like stock and hold up to 1k hp. Friends ***'s are still hurting years later not upgrading. Its not cheap changing a clutch if you don't do it yourself.
I'd def get the RST otherwise , $400 difference is nothing considering the labor alone is like $1600
This repair got me turning my pockets inside out already to be honest
Last edited by acefominC5; Jul 24, 2022 at 12:45 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,583
Likes: 7,255
From: CT
I wonder what the margins are with Monster vs others for the tuners putting money in their pockets. It's a brand I'd consider if I didn't already trust / respect the RST and have the second car come with a fresh RXT already installed. I'm not brand loyal there.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 127
Likes: 15
From: California
Probably going with the RST, it don't matter, you guys are right . 1600 just to pull all of that , rather install the best part I can.
However the kits I found don't include the pilot bushing and throw out bearing. Which ones should I buy?
The flywheel - read that the stock one is 23 lbs and that the lightest aftermarket ones are around 11 lbs. Going to go in between somewhere and buy a ~15 LB flywheel. For this weight, which flywheel material is best: aluminum or chromoly?
How do make sure it's compatible with the clutch kit? I know the tooth count has to match. What else?
Nd last thing, on summitracing the RST kit I found says in description , 'no mounting hardware included'. What is this supposed to mean?
However the kits I found don't include the pilot bushing and throw out bearing. Which ones should I buy?
The flywheel - read that the stock one is 23 lbs and that the lightest aftermarket ones are around 11 lbs. Going to go in between somewhere and buy a ~15 LB flywheel. For this weight, which flywheel material is best: aluminum or chromoly?
How do make sure it's compatible with the clutch kit? I know the tooth count has to match. What else?
Nd last thing, on summitracing the RST kit I found says in description , 'no mounting hardware included'. What is this supposed to mean?
Last edited by acefominC5; Jul 24, 2022 at 03:30 PM.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 32
Likes: 6
certain products are just the best.
monster clutch
Frankenstein heads
ati for balancers
arp for bolts
pro chargers for blowers
katech c5r for timing chains
dewitts for radiators
baer brakes
turn one for steering components
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 127
Likes: 15
From: California
Edited a reply above ) Let me know about the flywheel material. Which would be best, chromoly or aluminum if I never want to pull the car apart again like that? Which LTW flywheel is most durable & less likely to break?
And speaking of flywheel weight, stock one is 23 LBS, find myself delaying my shifts a bit to rev match. Is 15 the right weight, or is that gonna be too low ; approx by how much % would flywheel like that increase the speed that the revs drop at , and how much narrower will the bite point become ?
And speaking of flywheel weight, stock one is 23 LBS, find myself delaying my shifts a bit to rev match. Is 15 the right weight, or is that gonna be too low ; approx by how much % would flywheel like that increase the speed that the revs drop at , and how much narrower will the bite point become ?
Last edited by acefominC5; Jul 25, 2022 at 04:34 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 381
From: SC
Bear with my logic on this one.
Clutch change on these cars is not easy or quick.
You sought factory feel or lighter. RST provides this.
You mention beating on the drivetrain, but then counter my suggestion saying this clutch is rated to 800hp as though thay were a bad thing. Lighter feel, more capacity to hold is a good combo.
I run one in my daily driver 99 coupe. For about 40k miles it also had 10psi and 500rw. For the next 35-40k it has been NA. Never an issue with the clutch. Though when NA I did manage to shear the 10mm bolts at the rear of the driveshaft. Thr clutch is still ok. All the launches, highway pulls, all the torturous stop/go traffic and commuting for 7 years and that bugger is still going strong.
That's why I recommended it.
In the 99 it is paired with a Fidanza lightweight aluminum (11#) flywheel. I have an RXT going in my Z06 build which has a McLeod lightweight steel (13.5#) flywheel. Both better than factory which was close to 24#. If you have not used a lightweight piece before and you enjoy quick shifting or insta-rev match going through twisties you will love it.
Of course, results may vary. And there are other competent clutches out there.
Clutch change on these cars is not easy or quick.
You sought factory feel or lighter. RST provides this.
You mention beating on the drivetrain, but then counter my suggestion saying this clutch is rated to 800hp as though thay were a bad thing. Lighter feel, more capacity to hold is a good combo.
I run one in my daily driver 99 coupe. For about 40k miles it also had 10psi and 500rw. For the next 35-40k it has been NA. Never an issue with the clutch. Though when NA I did manage to shear the 10mm bolts at the rear of the driveshaft. Thr clutch is still ok. All the launches, highway pulls, all the torturous stop/go traffic and commuting for 7 years and that bugger is still going strong.
That's why I recommended it.
In the 99 it is paired with a Fidanza lightweight aluminum (11#) flywheel. I have an RXT going in my Z06 build which has a McLeod lightweight steel (13.5#) flywheel. Both better than factory which was close to 24#. If you have not used a lightweight piece before and you enjoy quick shifting or insta-rev match going through twisties you will love it.
Of course, results may vary. And there are other competent clutches out there.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 9,685
Likes: 3,437
From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C5 of the Year Winner - Modified
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
My 2 suggestions are aluminum flywheel with new stock Luk clutch to maintain stock pedal effort or a Spec Stage 1 (which I have) 10.5" with aluminum fw/pp. It's 20# lighter than stock, the RPMs drop much quicker, but the first 3 gears pull noticeably harder. The C7 multidisc setup likely offers a similar return, but I can't speak to it.
When I had to replace my hydraulics I did the clutch at the same time even though it only had 37K miles. I used a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and stock LS6 Luk clutch. Its like 14lbs lighter than stock and noticeable is revs. Drives like stock on the street and no difference in pedal effort. For my stock LS6 with headers it has more than enough torque capacity and withstands the high RPM fast shifting on road course use.
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,583
Likes: 7,255
From: CT
None. You adapt quickly to the very slight difference. Then you instantly love the easy shifts when tooling along. The effect is magnified if you ever add a cam and a tune where the revs will drop faster. I will have gone lightweight fw on three cars now.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 381
From: SC
Think thats what I’ll do then
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 5,414
Likes: 3,957
From: Cincinnati, OH
I run a 10.5" Spec 2+ (you can get a less aggressive option if needed) with aluminum PP and matching Spec 10.5" aluminum FW. Saves almost right at 20lbs over stock LS1/LS6 combination. I have it paired with a Tick 3/4" bore adj MC (but that's not really needed). Car also has a cam/exhaust. No extra balancing needed, bolted in with no problems.
I use my car 80% DD and 20% autocross. My wife will even drive/race my car.
I have zero complaints with this setup. It it slightly louder at idle with the clutch not depressed. Anymore noise (smaller more race oriented clutch) I would be annoyed.
I use my car 80% DD and 20% autocross. My wife will even drive/race my car.
I have zero complaints with this setup. It it slightly louder at idle with the clutch not depressed. Anymore noise (smaller more race oriented clutch) I would be annoyed.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 12,414
Likes: 1,750
From: DFW TX
I run a 10.5" Spec 2+ (you can get a less aggressive option if needed) with aluminum PP and matching Spec 10.5" aluminum FW. Saves almost right at 20lbs over stock LS1/LS6 combination. I have it paired with a Tick 3/4" bore adj MC (but that's not really needed). Car also has a cam/exhaust. No extra balancing needed, bolted in with no problems.
I use my car 80% DD and 20% autocross. My wife will even drive/race my car.
I have zero complaints with this setup. It it slightly louder at idle with the clutch not depressed. Anymore noise (smaller more race oriented clutch) I would be annoyed.
I use my car 80% DD and 20% autocross. My wife will even drive/race my car.
I have zero complaints with this setup. It it slightly louder at idle with the clutch not depressed. Anymore noise (smaller more race oriented clutch) I would be annoyed.
My car came with a Spec P-Trim Super Twin with 1,300 ft-lbs capacity
and oversized TICK MC. PO had been planning a 1k+ whp FI build but did not follow through. It was ridiculous; maybe a skilled driver could drive it smoothly but I could not. I was essentially using the tires as the clutch. Went down to a stock sized MC but still terrible. Finally replaced it with a Mamo'd RPS carbon twin rated for about 700ft-lbs iirc. It still has a pretty narrow engagement window but much easier to get it going.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 5,414
Likes: 3,957
From: Cincinnati, OH
that sounds like a reasonable setup.
My car came with a Spec P-Trim Super Twin with 1,300 ft-lbs capacity and oversized TICK MC. PO had been planning a 1k+ whp FI build but did not follow through. It was ridiculous; maybe a skilled driver could drive it smoothly but I could not. I was essentially using the tires as the clutch. Went down to a stock sized MC but still terrible. Finally replaced it with a Mamo'd RPS carbon twin rated for about 700ft-lbs iirc. It still has a pretty narrow engagement window but much easier to get it going.
My car came with a Spec P-Trim Super Twin with 1,300 ft-lbs capacity
and oversized TICK MC. PO had been planning a 1k+ whp FI build but did not follow through. It was ridiculous; maybe a skilled driver could drive it smoothly but I could not. I was essentially using the tires as the clutch. Went down to a stock sized MC but still terrible. Finally replaced it with a Mamo'd RPS carbon twin rated for about 700ft-lbs iirc. It still has a pretty narrow engagement window but much easier to get it going.A friend of mine that owns a speed shop local to me suggested the SPEC combo. All in his price I think I was ~$800. I also did OEM slave as well at the time. So far this clutch combo has given me zero issues. 20lbs lighter, under $1000 and dyno proven gains in midrange due to less weight...win win win.