Greetings all,
I purchase this 2000 C5 last year. Recently I had a "No Start Issue". I removed the Battery Negative, reconnected it, and the car started. Last week the same thing while at work. I again removed and replaced the Negative, and the car started.
I got home, and when I shut the car off, the interior lights and the radio display, did not turn off. I opened the car door again, and the "Open Hatch" was displayed on the DIC. I opened and closed the hatch, and again, closed the door, still the lights did not go out. I removed the negative overnite, reconnected the next morning, and Nothing, No security light on dash, gages worked, but nothing else.
I found a doc on this forum about disconnecting the Star connector 2, tried again to start, nothing.
I searched the DTC codes, and got this.
10-PCM-"No Codes"
28-TCS-3
C1243H
C1247H
U1255H
40 BCM-"No Codes"
58-SDM-6
B1001H
U1000 H C
U1016 H
U1040H
U1096 H
U1064 H C
60-IPC-2
U1160 H C
U1176 H C
80-Radio-"No Codes"
99-HVAC-"No Codes"
AO LCDM
U1064H
A1 RDCM
U1064H
BO RFA-"No Codes"

Battery Level with Meter 12.68
Battery Level on Gage 12.5
When I was sitting in drivers seat while getting codes, I could hear a ticking sound.
No window operations, wipers work, Dash seems to work.
Is this a BCM rebuild issue, I am not thinking its the Ignition switch.
I checked all BCM Fuses, and all were good
Any help will be appreciated.

Duane

 

Sounds like it might be the BCM, I would remove it and check for water intrusion, there are BCM rebuilders out there. One of them is G7 Computers, you simply ship the BCM, if there is nothing wrong with the BCM they charge a modest fee and send it back you. Always best to have the BCM rebuilt instead of buying a new one, because you don't have to perform the relearn procedure, hope this is helpful.

 

I did send it out for repair (to G7 Computers), received it back, and still nothing. I am get various u1064 codes. I removed the Start 2 connector jumper cap, and still no start...

 

That code is a loss of communication on the serial highway buss. You might try shaking the rubber accordion boots that route wires from the driver and passenger doors to the car, there are connectors that develop loose connections.

 

Will it crank over? Is the vats the problem and need the vats relearn procedure? Or is it a problemwith the whole bcm?

 

Battery voltage is 12.75
I tried what a post stated "Jump M BCM and B PCM on start connector 1" no crank. Star connector 2 Top removed
No security lights on.
I do hear a click in the BCM

 

Is the click in the BCM or is it the TDR relay that is above the BCM?

 

I hear a click inside the BCM (Not sure which relay), TDR does not activate. Going to try to jump Red and Purple to see if it attempts to start.
I did order a new BCM just in case.
also going to recheck all fuses involved, but I get no voltage on the TDR coil. I also pulled Ignition switch, and tested all contacts. all checked to about .8 ohms. in all positions that require.

 

Using your DVM you should place the positive lead to the supply side of a fuse and the negative lead to the yellow black stripped wire of the TDR with the key in the on position you should see 12v. The next step is to find a good ground for the negative lead and insert the positive lead in the TDR socket that has the solid yellow lead it should have 12v when you hold the switch in the start position. I know you sent the BCM out for repair and have read that you don't have to do a BCM relearn procedure since it's the original BCM that procedure is here on this site in case you want to try that.