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LS3 Going into C5 Z06

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Old Aug 21, 2022 | 04:13 PM
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Default LS3 Going into C5 Z06

Here we go!

I have a separate thread about parts I still may need
here:


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/4662812-ls3-swap-which-valley-cover-and-fuel-injectors.html


I’ll update here as I go.

First question, what is this plug, and how do I replace it?






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Old Aug 22, 2022 | 02:04 AM
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Not sure what it is without looking at the diagrams, but if I were doing a swap like this I think I would just get one of these kits. Should be able to repair any connector you come across.

Metri-Pack Connector Kit MP-280-500: Metri-Pack 280 Series Sealed Automotive Electrical Connectors 22-12 Gauge 500 Piece Kit (With T-18 Crimp Tool 24-14 AWG) https://a.co/d/7syTUL7

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Old Aug 24, 2022 | 02:37 AM
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If you have headers, that might be O2 extension cables. If so, i would simply remove the car side connectors and join the wires.
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Old Aug 24, 2022 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette-kid
Not sure what it is without looking at the diagrams, but if I were doing a swap like this I think I would just get one of these kits. Should be able to repair any connector you come across.

Metri-Pack Connector Kit MP-280-500: Metri-Pack 280 Series Sealed Automotive Electrical Connectors 22-12 Gauge 500 Piece Kit (With T-18 Crimp Tool 24-14 AWG) https://a.co/d/7syTUL7

I just ordered this! Thanks
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Old Aug 24, 2022 | 04:48 PM
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Ok, my bell housing g has a cracked, broken off bolt hole..

What’s the consensus here?



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Old Aug 24, 2022 | 05:47 PM
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I'd carefully (carefully) drill out the center until I could fit (actually pound with a hammer) a "star" head with a socket into the hole. Throw in a little lube and It should just be able to back it out at that point.
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Old Aug 24, 2022 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by billschroeder5842
I'd carefully (carefully) drill out the center until I could fit (actually pound with a hammer) a "star" head with a socket into the hole. Throw in a little lube and It should just be able to back it out at that point.
Just to be clear-I’m not extracting a bolt. The bolt HOLE cracked in half rendering the hole (potentially) useless…


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Old Aug 24, 2022 | 09:52 PM
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Do you have the missing piece? If so, a good welder could fix that.

Otherwise, just get another bellhousing.
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Old Aug 25, 2022 | 03:23 AM
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Aren't the inner two holes for the dowel pins on the face of the torque tube? If so, I would honestly be half tempted to send it since the remainder of the hole will still center and secure the dowel. Or weld a tab on and mock the bellhouse to the torque tube a few times to ensure fitment before installation.
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Old Aug 25, 2022 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tusc
Aren't the inner two holes for the dowel pins on the face of the torque tube? If so, I would honestly be half tempted to send it since the remainder of the hole will still center and secure the dowel. Or weld a tab on and mock the bellhouse to the torque tube a few times to ensure fitment before installation.
I tend to agree about sending it. OP has more than 1/2 the hole diameter left, and remaining dowel will also locate in every direction. When I was still working, engineers came up with "diamond shaped dowel pins, which located in one axis only, but made install and removal of the actual part easier. OP's "good" dowel will locate in all directions, and with over half the diameter remaining, the damaged dowel hole has enough of the working diameter left to accurately locate the tube to bellhousing. My opinion, but I believe OP would be OK to send it as is. Dowels do nothing for strength. They are for locating only. OP could bolt the assembly together, bit leave the bolts 3/4-1 full turn from tight. Then try moving either assembly from the other. If it won't move, I'd send it. CAUTION!!! BEFORE OP is ready for final assembly, I'd run a flat honing stone over the bellhousing to remove any possible high spots.......
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Old Aug 25, 2022 | 02:24 PM
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One thing I would STONGLY recommend-- while you have everything out, replace the clutch and ESPECIALLY the slave cylinder. Most clutches that can handle the LS6 can handle the LS3, but while you have it out anyway it's a good opportunity to upgrade. The slave cylinders are notoriously shitty, and if yours hasn't failed yet it almost certainly will sooner rather than later. It's super easy to replace when you have the driveline out anyway.
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Old Aug 25, 2022 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Napoleon_Tanerite
One thing I would STONGLY recommend-- while you have everything out, replace the clutch and ESPECIALLY the slave cylinder. Most clutches that can handle the LS6 can handle the LS3, but while you have it out anyway it's a good opportunity to upgrade. The slave cylinders are notoriously shitty, and if yours hasn't failed yet it almost certainly will sooner rather than later. It's super easy to replace when you have the driveline out anyway.

Thanks for this input!

I have a Monster S-Twin clutch rated to 700hp that is relatively new. I just ordered a GM OEM slave.

Here’s a pic of my (slightly used) monster clutch.

Do you believe I should still replace this clutch?






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Old Aug 25, 2022 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Townicus
Thanks for this input!

I have a Monster S-Twin clutch rated to 700hp that is relatively new. I just ordered a GM OEM slave.

Here’s a pic of my (slightly used) monster clutch.

Do you believe I should still replace this clutch?





Not unless you see something wrong with it that isn't apparent in the pics! The pics you posted make it look like you have a great clutch that should work very well with the LS3. I'd still swap the slave. I learned the hard way TWICE (once on my GTO and once on my Corvette) to never pass on an opportunity to replace the slave cylinder.
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