So I decided to let a shop replace my clutch and now I’m having some issues. Used a mcleod rst + aluminum flywheel. Torque tube bearings and bushings were supposedly replaced as well as new slave/throwout and pilot bearing.

Now the problems. I have a grinding/rattling noise with engine running, trans in neutral with clutch engaged. Noise goes away if you push in the pedal. Similar noise when taking off in first that goes away once moving.

This was present prior to the clutch work as well, but less noticeable. I was under the impression that replacing everything would fix it or at least improve it. Any thoughts on what it could be?

Also, I have a squeal/squeak occasionally when taking off in first gear and less occasionally when shifting between gears. Immediately after picking up the car I would also get the same noise if I got up to speed and pushed the clutch in but left it in gear. It stopped doing that by the time I got where I was going but still makes the noise taking off in first. I thought it could be the new clutch but I think I heard it very slightly a couple times when parked with engine running and shifting through gears.

Trying to get a better idea of what the problem might be as I supplied the clutch and I have a feeling they may try to use that as an excuse to avoid fixing anything.

 

So this is my first twin disk clutch. Some of the reading I’ve done there are people with similar but not exactly the same issues with a twin disk. Some even went away after breaking in the clutch. So if anyone running twin disk clutches could chime in on that I’d appreciate it. Especially anyone running mcleod

 

In the old days it would have been the throw-out bearing. Not sure if this still applies.

 

wouldn’t a bad throwout bearing make noise when the pedal is depressed? I know this is a brand new slave cylinder, which I understand includes the throwout bearing

 

Squeal/squeak only happens once completely warmed up and I feel like it improved slightly after driving it and letting it sit. Hoping it goes away completely with break in. If anyone with Mcleod or another twin disk has experienced the noise at idle that I have, that would make me less worried something wasn’t done right.

Side note for anyone who has wondered about the drivability of the RST w/ aluminum flywheel, it drives great in my opinion. I picked it up and drove straight to work in stop and go traffic and there wasn’t really much getting used to it required. Pedal effort slightly higher I’d say.

 

Twin disc, depending on design, would only make noise with the clutch pushed in. Unless there's another phenomenon that I'm not aware of.

With the car stopped, at idle, in neutral, making noise that goes away with pushing in the clutch? That's torque tube bearings. I replaced mine and that particular noise went away completely.

 

That’s what I feared. They were supposed to be replaced. I was certainly charged for them

 

When you depress the clutch the drive shaft stops spinning. This indicates an issue with the torque tube bearings.

 

Yeah, looks like it will have to go back in. Hopefully it won’t be an ordeal getting them to correct the issue.

 

Are you the first Corvette they've ever done? I wonder if they were gonna get stuck ordering the bearings, didn't feel like waiting, then did you dirty. Here's what you want.

https://txdrivetrain.com/product/c5-...d-bearing-kit/

 

No, from what I can gather they’ve done lots of corvettes and was supposedly vette tech at a local dealer for 20+ years. Several corvettes there waiting to be worked on. It wasn’t my first choice, there’s a somewhat well known shop nearby that works on nothing but corvettes but he’s got too much work and not enough help so not doing anything but restorations currently. Same story everywhere around here, body shops/machine shops/etc…

I had the same thought you did, I’ve been suspicious since they pushed back when it was supposed to be ready several times. They also didn’t reinstall my katech speed bleeder and tried to tell me (after I noticed and called about it, they wouldn’t have said a word about it otherwise) that it wouldn’t work with the new slave. Dumbass left the katech threaded screw in the old slave. Waiting to see how things get resolved before I tell anyone who will listen to avoid this place.

 

Damn, that's real dirty. I had to purge my clutch when I got the car all back together as I got a little air bubble in the mix somehow. Easy peasy with that remote bleeder. Would not want to be without it. The Katech screw is supposed to be the best one as it has the same taper as the factory screw. Unless the slave was that much different.

 

Katech is the best, it’s also expensive and he was just gonna hang onto it.

The slaves are identical (oem) he’s just a moron. New slave came with a new oem non threaded (at the top) bleed screw and he didn’t notice that the bleeder is two pieces, one piece replacing the screw (that he left in the old slave) and another threading onto it. So he told me he couldn’t use it because there was no way to thread it on.

 

Still not sure if the rattle noise is on them.

Seen several threads like this and it seems quite a few people believe this is normal for twin disk clutches.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ease-help.html