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I recently installed some C5-R tall valve covers. The don't come with a breather tube, so I installed a nipple into the oil squirter tube and ran my breather hose from there to the TB. However, based upon the additional black crap on the back of the car, I believe that this set-up is sucking more oil into the TB than the stock set-up. My question is this. Does anyone have any experience with simply venting the valve cover breather into the atmosphere with just a filter on the end and blocking off the tube into the TB? What are the potential detriments to this type of set-up?
You may want to consider installing a filter between the valve cover and throttle body and continue to provide positive crank ventilation. I've been having oil ingestion problems with stock valve covers running without baffles to clear a Jesel rocker setup, and have gone to the filter solution, which so far seems to work OK.
BTW, where did you mount your coils with the C5R covers?
Check out installuniversity.com. There's a good article describing the approach under the title PCV mod. I used a filter designed for an air compressor that cost around $20.00 at Lowes.
Tell me more about the Halltech mount. I considered the C5R covers as an alternative to butchering the stockers, but drew a blank on the coil location problem.
I just looked at that post on installuniversity and it looks like a lot of pieces and splicing. Can't you just add an inline filter and t off to a low catch basin?
The Halltech mount isn't cheap. Personally, if I had a band saw and bench sander, I would make them myself. It cost $500 w/Magnecor wires and $700 w/Nology wires. I went with the Nology wires. It's basically a plate on each side that has two hole in the middle where you place a bolt through the two holes in the fuel rail that aren't being used by anything. You then place a wing nut on the bottom to hold it down. It is a MAJOR pain in the *** to get the wing nuts on, but if you bend the tab on the fuel rail w/the hole in it up just slightly, it goes on much easier. Then, you remove all the coils and use the provided hex nuts and spacers to mount the coils to the bracket. That's it. One set of coils does have to be flipped over to clear the fuel line and you have to pay attention that you don't end up with the coils backwards firing in the wrong order. So, $400 gets you ($100 for the Magnecor wires and $200 for the Nology wires) two polished aluminum plates, four phillips head bolts, four wing nuts, sixteen hex head bolts, and sixteen aluminum spacers (little pieces of pipe stock).
Right you are, just splicing the filter into the line between the valve cover and throttle body should suffice.
I checked out the Halltech solution on their website. As you state, not a lot of technology for $500+. Add in the C5R covers, and it becomes a significant investment with only cosmetic benefits. But it is an alternative, and I appreciate the tip.
Did you also add a t to the line and a little resevoir for the oil or just use the filter? If you added a resevoir, did you put it before or after the filter? If no resevoir, how often do you need to change the filter before it gets to clogged and dimishes the air flow?
The covers are $500, plus some home-made gaskets or permatex plus the bolts, washers, breather nipple (and drill bit and tap if you don't already have them) and oil-squirter bolts and washers. So you're looking at about $1,040 to $1,240 complete. Then add the cost of the intake manifold at $600, plus the cost of gaskets or permatex and custom egr block off, and it adds up pretty quickly. I am so lucky to have a very, very understanding wife. :D
Stop screwing with this filter FIX THE PROBLEM LS6 VALLEY COVER AND HARNESS NEVER REPL FILTER OR CLEAN ONE AGAIN . If you dont fix your problem exsessive oil will stick the rings.....
Stop screwing with this filter FIX THE PROBLEM LS6 VALLEY COVER AND HARNESS NEVER REPL FILTER OR CLEAN ONE AGAIN . If you dont fix your problem exsessive oil will stick the rings.....