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'03 LS3 powered Z, primarily HPDE. Finally getting rid of my cheap air filter setup and going with a factory assembly (Thanks Vettenuts) w/zip tie mod. What dry performance filters are out there and are they any better than an AC Delco or Wix? Not interested in oil types like KN etc since I'm a habitual over-oiler (never too much lube)!
I just did a flip tie mod without the zip ties. I fabbed four simple brackets to hold the filter tray and plenum to the shroud via jack nuts. AC or Wix dry filters are more than adequate. The zip tie mod will still pull heated air from the engine compartment as does the stock and your “hi po” setup.
From: Philadelphia PA (Birthplace of the USA, UNESCO World Heritage City)
Originally Posted by norcalace
The zip tie mod will still pull heated air from the engine compartment as does the stock and your “hi po” setup.
Isn't the air filter area pretty well isolated from the rest of the engine bay? The hood closes right on top of the radiator/fan shroud I think without any gaps, so how much engine heat is really getting into the space where the air filter is located?
Better check that. Look at the picture in the OPs post. There is a good 2” from the radiator cover and the top of the air bridge. So the hood can not close with the hood liner sealing that gap. There is also large spaces on each side of the radiator. The only air entering the engine compartment comes through the radiator where it gets heated as well as absorbing heat from the engine itself. The nose of the car is completely closed so there is no filter access to fresh I heated air. All this of course pertains to operating temperature conditions.
From: Philadelphia PA (Birthplace of the USA, UNESCO World Heritage City)
Originally Posted by norcalace
Better check that. Look at the picture in the OPs post. There is a good 2” from the radiator cover and the top of the air bridge. So the hood can not close with the hood liner sealing that gap. There is also large spaces on each side of the radiator. The only air entering the engine compartment comes through the radiator where it gets heated as well as absorbing heat from the engine itself. The nose of the car is completely closed so there is no filter access to fresh I heated air. All this of course pertains to operating temperature conditions.
Yeah but I think the hood also is ~2" higher in that area where the air bridge is? I remember looking at the imprint on my hood liner and seeing the imprint of the shroud, indicating to me it is resting pretty much right on it.
Instead of removing the lid, why not just guy the lid so a huge chunk of it is open? Then you could keep the stock straps. Or should I have looked at my stock box on tbe shelf before commenting?
I don’t know how effective this mod is, but it’s well thought out and executed. My only add to this would be concern over possible water intrusion…?
Callaway Honker and the old Vortex ram air place the filter in the same place. Yes it would be more likely to hydrolock than stock but so are any of the fresh air intakes.
If your engine compartment isn’t getting wet when it’s raining then it’s doubtful water is entering the intake system. I’ve driven over 200 miles in steady rain at interstate speeds and my engine compartment was dry as a bone.
If your engine compartment isn’t getting wet when it’s raining then it’s doubtful water is entering the intake system. I’ve driven over 200 miles in steady rain at interstate speeds and my engine compartment was dry as a bone.
Thats good feedback, and it makes sense.
Still, it makes me wonder why GM went to such lengths to conceal the filter in a separate compartment from fresh air and cover it in a box to boot.
I am particularly interested as I plan to open up the foglight housings to move cooler* air through the engine bay, and out the fender vents.
*Cooler in the context of Florida summers. My engine runs about 200°, but the heat soak in the engine bay is intense.
The car is already efficient at expelling hot air from the engine compartment. The air pulled in through the condenser and radiator far exceeds any air blowing into the car from the fog light area. Also for the air to exit the engine compartment there must be a negative air flow that will pull air from the engine compartment. This is accomplished by the air passing under the car and drawing the heated air out under the car. If you look closely the side vents are both shrouded and mostly blocked from the engine compartment. Passenger side is completely blocked by the fuse box and battery compartment. Also the openings are so small there is very little negative air pressure at the vent exit.
The car is already efficient at expelling hot air from the engine compartment. The air pulled in through the condenser and radiator far exceeds any air blowing into the car from the fog light area. Also for the air to exit the engine compartment there must be a negative air flow that will pull air from the engine compartment. This is accomplished by the air passing under the car and drawing the heated air out under the car. If you look closely the side vents are both shrouded and mostly blocked from the engine compartment. Passenger side is completely blocked by the fuse box and battery compartment. Also the openings are so small there is very little negative air pressure at the vent exit.
It’s supplemental outside air that hasn’t gone through the nuclear hot radiator and it’s a pretty clear shot from the foglight shroud area to the engine bay.
I can’t comment on the aerodynamics, but I know a **** load of hot air exits those vents, lol….
Best DRY filter for Zip Tie mod
