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Failed CA STAR station smog for "due to vehicle's on board computer system not completing emission system self checks." Secondary air injection system "not ready" while trying to smog. How long/drive time to be ready?
Basically I've been having problems with the air injection pump and the fixes that were done were installing new air pump solenoid and air pump diverter valve last night. Everything fixed, codes reset and told all systems good to go for smog and I could get it anytime. They couldn't do it since it had to be a STAR smog station and they weren't. Bring it in to STAR smog station this morning and was failed as the OBDII monitors shows Evaporative system and secondary air injection system not ready. The car will still pass smog for Evap system not being ready but not for Secondary air injection not being ready. I ask the smog attendant how long before the computer will say it is ready and I get an "unknown." Could be a day, a week or a month. Just drive it around. OK??? anybody know of Corvette's drive cycle time to check and complete diagnostics on this system so I can get it smogged? Thanks.
First with a scan tool if you have one or can get your hands on one determine what DTC’s you may (current OR pending) may not allow the AIR monitor to set…the “passive” test is sometimes run when you first start the car and you can hear the AIR pump run…it may then do an “active” test once the engine goes into closed loop (you can check that with a scan tool)…also if your fuel trims are way out of whack that may also cause the monitor not to set…to run the active test accelerate at part throttle to 45 MPH and hold this speed for 3 minutes…you can see if the monitor has set with your scan tool after doing this !!
I appreciate that but I do not have a scan tool unfortunately. As of yesterday the only current code was the P0410, air injection system. I have had issues with both knock sensors alternating between current and history codes. Both knock sensors and harness were replaced 18 months ago and again yesterday.
I appreciate that but I do not have a scan tool unfortunately. As of yesterday the only current code was the P0410, air injection system. I have had issues with both knock sensors alternating between current and history codes. Both knock sensors and harness were replaced 18 months ago and again yesterday.
If you have a P0410 the monitor will NOT run…you have to fix the P0410 then run the test.
Once you get the issues fixed and clear your codes, I would recommend about a 100 mile drive. Preferably make the last leg of the trip to the smog station. Your cat will also be nice and hot, which is always a nice added bonus. Also if you're worried about an intermittent CEL popping up, consider not turning your car off either. I had the issue in my other vehicle throwing a code for a transmission sensor. Cleared the code, went for a 100mile drive and didn't shut her off when I got the station.
If you have a P0410 the monitor will NOT run…you have to fix the P0410 then run the test.
issue fixed yesterday. vacuum line issue behind intake manifold caused P0410 after fixing solenoid and diverter valve. Just trying to estimate length of time needed or miles driven till I try to smog again. And/or how many cycles till it becomes active again
Once you get the issues fixed and clear your codes, I would recommend about a 100 mile drive. Preferably make the last leg of the trip to the smog station. Your cat will also be nice and hot, which is always a nice added bonus. Also if you're worried about an intermittent CEL popping up, consider not turning your car off either. I had the issue in my other vehicle throwing a code for a transmission sensor. Cleared the code, went for a 100mile drive and didn't shut her off when I got the station.
I drive 110 miles/day but I had today off so I figured I'll get it smogged. I may have to wait till next weekend
A few days after the failed smog the CEL came on for P0410 again. Apparently, it was a bad vacuum line so it was fixed and had a weeks worth of driving, maybe 10-12 drive cycles, so tried to smog again today. The guy hooked up a handheld scanner before attempting a real smog and he said it was not showing ready for "CATS." I asked about the air injection system because that's what failed last time, and he said good to go. Now is there anything special aboot the CATS system and how to resolve it? Thanks.
A few days after the failed smog the CEL came on for P0410 again. Apparently, it was a bad vacuum line so it was fixed and had a weeks worth of driving, maybe 10-12 drive cycles, so tried to smog again today. The guy hooked up a handheld scanner before attempting a real smog and he said it was not showing ready for "CATS." I asked about the air injection system because that's what failed last time, and he said good to go. Now is there anything special aboot the CATS system and how to resolve it? Thanks.
Whoever is going to have to work on your car is going to have to check if you have any current or pending DTC's...they will have to graph the downstream O2 sensors and make sure that they are not "switching" like the upstream sensors (see below)...the downstreams should be fairly constant around 700 mv's or so...you want to make sure you have no exhaust leaks downstream of the front O2 to the rear O2 sensor.
Whoever is going to have to work on your car is going to have to check if you have any current or pending DTC's...they will have to graph the downstream O2 sensors and make sure that they are not "switching" like the upstream sensors (see below)...the downstreams should be fairly constant around 700 mv's or so...you want to make sure you have no exhaust leaks downstream of the front O2 to the rear O2 sensor.
So, when the scanner shows "CATS" not ready is that referring to only the O2 sensors or is there other associated sensors and/or systems? I'm just puzzled on why CATS and not O2 sensors as that seems logical. Is there a dumbed down fix to this issue? like drive another 25 cycles or 500 miles?
I usually just have a local shop work on it, when there is a CEL, but they keep saying everything is good when work is finished. The smog technicians aren't going to trouble shoot this so that will have to come down to paying for diagnostics. I really don't think this is a current/pending DTC issue nor an exhaust leak. The air injection system had issues since I bought it two years ago and finally resolved with the vacuum line fix. I actually put it off for two years as it was just that issue and nothing catastrophic and everything else fixed as CEL came up. If I have to pay for diagnostics I will but trying to put that last down the list of fixes. Thanks.
The PCM uses the O2 sensors as the “catalyst monitor”….there is nothing in the catalytic converter that the PCM can monitor to complete the test…a complete drive cycle runs for 12 minutes but the catalyst monitor runs at 55-60 mph for 5 minutes…your shop can’t tell you if the catalyst monitor has run and passed ??…if they can’t find another shop.
Is this what I need to do? my car never does this... I live a mile from the highway and its 25-40 MPH on city streets and 80 MPH on the hwy. I used a different shop two weeks ago and today the guy hooked up to a handheld scanner and it had a red X next to "CATS" system. I asked if he could hook up to the smog machine and see what it says and he says 'No, it will fail smog and I'll have to charge you." I was under the impression that you are able to connect to the smog device/computer and monitor everything without actually starting a smog check/record. Maybe they're too busy to care?
Is this what I need to do? my car never does this... I live a mile from the highway and its 25-40 MPH on city streets and 80 MPH on the hwy. I used a different shop two weeks ago and today the guy hooked up to a handheld scanner and it had a red X next to "CATS" system. I asked if he could hook up to the smog machine and see what it says and he says 'No, it will fail smog and I'll have to charge you." I was under the impression that you are able to connect to the smog device/computer and monitor everything without actually starting a smog check/record. Maybe they're too busy to care?
If you had a cheap code reader you can check these monitors and check to see if the catalyst or any of the monitors are complete…or you can take the car to a parts store and they can check it for you too…if it is complete you can then take the car to your state emissions station or shop and you will pass !!
At this point I'm willing to buy a scanner. Do you have a recommendation? Will the cheapest one at Autozone/NAPA/O'reilly work?
As long as they show IM Monitors it will work..I have no idea what brands these parts stores sell…they are probably less than $50.00…go to these stores and ask.
Whoever is going to have to work on your car is going to have to check if you have any current or pending DTC's...they will have to graph the downstream O2 sensors and make sure that they are not "switching" like the upstream sensors (see below)...the downstreams should be fairly constant around 700 mv's or so...you want to make sure you have no exhaust leaks downstream of the front O2 to the rear O2 sensor.
I attempted a drive cycle and brought it back to the same smog shop I went to yesterday and still no go for same issue, CATS not ready. In the pic above of O2 sensor monitoring (from C5DIAG) is this supposed to be done while key on and engine off or while running? and can this be done while cold or should it be after a good warm up? I bought a scan tool and will check tomorrow but not sure what scenario took place to attempt a successful reading.
I attempted a drive cycle and brought it back to the same smog shop I went to yesterday and still no go for same issue, CATS not ready. In the pic above of O2 sensor monitoring (from C5DIAG) is this supposed to be done while key on and engine off or while running? and can this be done while cold or should it be after a good warm up? I bought a scan tool and will check tomorrow but not sure what scenario took place to attempt a successful reading.
This is the complete “drive cycle” that is used…you can follow this completely and see what happens and remember to have AC and rear defogger ON to load the electrical system in the first step…my graphed O2 sensors are what you should see with the car running….you would let the car reach operating temperature to see this. Good luck !!
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