Hello, I haven't spent much time on this side of the forum. Had an 89 for years. Recently picked up a Nassau Blue 1999 A4 with 3.15. 142000 km or 88250 miles.
Looks like I'm stricken with the wobbly harmonic balancer.
I figure I will go ahead and buy the Summit balancer and probably front crank seal while I'm there?
While the mechanic is in there, I heard that pinning the crank should also be done at the same time.

While the mechanic is in there, how much more labor would be involved to swap out a cam? A few more hours labor?

 

It’s probably a little more complicated then that. According to my knowledge, you have to pull the valve covers and intake manifold off to get the lifters out, push rods out. A cam usually comes in a kit, cam and lifters. Then most people upgrade the push rods and rocker arms so everything matches. It’s all part of the valve train. With almost 90,000 miles, you might want to do valve seals as well. Your starting to go down a rabbit hole and you have to stop somewhere.

My 2004 has 75,000 on it, when I get the wobble, it’s top end rebuild for me, heads, cam, intake, throttle body and all supporting mods.

back to the original question…. IDK, 3-5 hours for a cam swap after the balancer is off. Not sure, someone else chime in…

 

If you’re thinking cam ($450+), now is absolutely the time to do it.

You're going to keep the same lifters until/unless you pull the heads off. The new cam will probably require heavier springs ($100-$250), new pushrods ($150), and valve seals ($50); reuse the rocker arms. The mechanic will also need to measure the pushrod length to make sure it will preload the lifters correctly. Depending on the cam, they may have to order different length pushrods. The prices are from the last year IIRC.

With the miles you have probably add cam plate, timing chain, possibly belts and tensioners, oil pump and water pump. The hits just keep on coming!

3-5 hours give or take.

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

My opinion as a Professional mechanic with more than 30 years of experience building repairing engines.
Opening up any 90,000 mile engine and modifying it opens a can of worms when you really think about longevity and reliability.

Just a simple cam change does not require new push rods or a Lifter change. (As long as you stay under .650 lift) (A Spring change is highly recommended to match any new cam)
At 90,000 miles It would be suggested to go a head and do Valve stem seals with any Spring change and lifters but lifters are not really an absolute must especially if cam is only say like a .550 lift. and you dont care if one goes flat or the engine blows in less than 10,000-20,000 miles or less.

Now as a Recommendation for any vehicle with 90,000 miles
At 90,000 miles I would suggest Doing a Valve job OR a new set of heads (New heads may require different Push rods!) with matching springs to match the cam, New lifters are not a bad idea either if a different size than stock a Push rod change will be necessary. I would also include A New timing chain assembly, new oil pump, new water pump, belt tension-er & idler pully's and the Harmonic balancer. While many suggest pinning the Balancer on the LS I think its over kill and really only needed if your engine is supercharged and even then the Crank should be upgraded to a Steel forged unit that is cut for a Woodruff key NOT a drilled Pin.

Now if you do do Heads and cam you should also really think about upgrading the Intake and throttle body and exhaust PLUS Tuning!

How much does all this cost? How much can you do yourself?
If you have to hire some one to do all this work for you its gonna get expensive FAST! I would highly suggest you include your mechanic for parts selection,
Many Mechanics such as myself wont use certain parts made by certain manufactures no matter what! Junk from DNJ & other China made junk comes to mind.
I have turned customers away for their demand to use cheap junk parts and will do it again.

Just me BUT If you have to hire some one to do all the work for you, pushing an old short block is just a recipe for Bottom end failure especially with the platform having 90,000 miles on it.
Your far better off looking at a Zero time Dyno proven Crate engine from a reputable source such as GM or Texas speed. You can get a Brand new LS3 for just under $5500 thats Hard to beat when your talking about spending $2500-$3000 or more on and old 90,000 mile engine.
https://sdparts.com/i-24509872-chevr...YaAvz0EALw_wcB

If I blow up my engine I can have it out in about 4 hours and on a stand, Build it any way I want as Bad as I want or as tame as I want Not every one can do that.
My opinion you need to be more worried about reliability and longevity of money spent, Bang for your Buck not to mention resale value a Factory crate engine adds value to any old car a engine built by or Hot Rodded by Joe S. up the street not so much.

 

Pulling intake on LS motors serves no purpose unless your pulling heads, which is the only way you can access lifters on a stock block......

 

^^^^^^^THIS 100%. Words of wisdom......

 

Their are lots of people doing 550hp and more on a stock bottom end and the stock LS6 intake manifold