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So I been looking at getting a fast intake and larger throttle body.
Issue is I keep reading that a fast intake will throw codes .
Is this true or not ?And is there a preferred setup that will not throw codes . 🤔
And what size Throttlebody will work on my 1998 LS1 the best when doing this swap.
Guess I should ad some back ground on motor.
Previous owner had a Lingenfelter heads,cam, swap .
has 42k miles on it and run excellent. Rear was also mini tubbed for fatass tires 😆
Yes a larger intake and throttle will throw codes and require tuning. I have seen some people claim they didn't need to on a stock engine but I highly doubt it. You will typically get a P1514 code, this will set you into limp mode for the new higher airmass over the MAF. You will also need to adjust the ETC scaler area as well as other idle and decel parameters.
I run a TPIS setup that uses the factory harness. The LS2 and LS3 stuff require harness adapters and the LS3 some additional tuning that not everyone is familiar with.
As far as best it's typically going to be subjective. Price ease of tuning etc. Most people run the LS2 throttles with the FAST intakes unless you have one of those 102mm intake then maybe go with a matching throttle.
You can repin your harness to work with the LS2 or LS3 throttle body or buy a $20 adapter which does it for you to work with the ECU signals on our cars.
As for tuning issues and error codes, I forget the range to alter but I think it it something like setting 97% to equal 100% or thereabouts. I haven't touched it since 2015 and the memory fades. The search function on here is your friend for those answers.
I was one of the ones he is referencing who tossed a Gold Blade on my Fast 92 in my 99 coupe without a re-tune and experienced no errors. That is apparently some odd anomaly. And reading the why and wherefore it doesn't make sense to me either. I don't know. But it had been tuned previously on stock tb/intake and who is to say what was in there? My friend who did it has gone on to become a full time tuner building some sick 2000rw GT-Rs among others.
If you're in the market, I have a low miles gold blade for sale. I bought it as a genuine GM part circa 2018 and recently painted the housing black.
My 5.7L was dyno tuned and making +400 RWHP with the later 85mm MAF and stock LS6 intake and 78mm throttle body.. This year I sent the LS6 intake out to TPIS for the 90mm snout modification and installed a ported silver blade LS2 throttle body with yet another adapter harness and the LS2 bellows. I was told by several folks who have run both manifolds that the 90mm LS6 is easier to tune with slightly better drivability manners (due to higher charge velocities most likely) compared to either the FAST 90mm or 92 mm intakes (on a larger 6.0L or 6.2L stroker engine things maybe different). I have been driving it now for 1.3K miles without a retune and have not gotten a single Reduced Power messages, but I have yet to run it past 6000 RPM at WOT either, just for that reason. I need to schedule a dyno tuning session, but now that will have to wait until next season. As always YMMV.
Oh hey - I am REALLY curious. Do you have any photos of how they did the mini tub setup? Very cool car.
Don't have any pictures .
Use to be able to see them from inside rear of car when carpet is lifted ,but I layerd down the sound insulation over the entire back end .
I run 315/40/19. With zero rubbing.
Last edited by IronMaidens2.0; Nov 5, 2022 at 11:19 AM.
My 5.7L was dyno tuned and making +400 RWHP with the later 85mm MAF and stock LS6 intake and 78mm throttle body.. This year I sent the LS6 intake out to TPIS for the 90mm snout modification and installed a ported silver blade LS2 throttle body with yet another adapter harness and the LS2 bellows. I was told by several folks who have run both manifolds that the 90mm LS6 is easier to tune with slightly better drivability manners (due to higher charge velocities most likely) compared to either the FAST 90mm or 92 mm intakes (on a larger 6.0L or 6.2L stroker engine things maybe different). I have been driving it now for 1.3K miles without a retune and have not gotten a single Reduced Power messages, but I have yet to run it past 6000 RPM at WOT either, just for that reason. I need to schedule a dyno tuning session, but now that will have to wait until next season. As always YMMV.
If you have not set a reduced power message yet you likely will not even at WOT.
Calculated Airmass vs. TPS vs. RPM - P1514 Error: The VCM uses this table to determine the maximum airmass (g/cyl) the Electronic Throttle should be passing at a certain TPS position and RPM. If the measured airflow exceeds this value then P1514/P0068 is set.
The above code will set just driving around normal. If your car was tuned before this code may very well have been tuned out. You just plug in a higher number and it'll be gone.
My 5.7L was dyno tuned and making +400 RWHP with the later 85mm MAF and stock LS6 intake and 78mm throttle body.. This year I sent the LS6 intake out to TPIS for the 90mm snout modification and installed a ported silver blade LS2 throttle body with yet another adapter harness and the LS2 bellows. I was told by several folks who have run both manifolds that the 90mm LS6 is easier to tune with slightly better drivability manners (due to higher charge velocities most likely) compared to either the FAST 90mm or 92 mm intakes (on a larger 6.0L or 6.2L stroker engine things maybe different). I have been driving it now for 1.3K miles without a retune and have not gotten a single Reduced Power messages, but I have yet to run it past 6000 RPM at WOT either, just for that reason. I need to schedule a dyno tuning session, but now that will have to wait until next season. As always YMMV.
not trying to bash you or anyone else but my concern without a tune would be that you aren’t receiving the power benefits to making the change. It needs the tune to alter the fueling to accompany your increased airflow. Otherwise your fuel trims will be way off and possibly be running lean. If you’re happy now, with a tune you will be really happy.
not trying to bash you or anyone else but my concern without a tune would be that you aren’t receiving the power benefits to making the change. It needs the tune to alter the fueling to accompany your increased airflow. Otherwise your fuel trims will be way off and possibly be running lean. If you’re happy now, with a tune you will be really happy.
Correct. I expected issues the first time around the block, when I didn't I was VERY surprised. The only change that would have effected fueling was the 90mm snout and throttle body. Possibly its still within the trim capabilities, I have no idea. But I have purposely avoid WOT at all costs and been keeping the RPM down too. Just had a lot of "other than car issues" this year and have yet to get her back to a tuner. Not recommending this method to anyone!