Need some forum guidance here. I was driving around this weekend, including driving the car to go look at an 01 Z06 for sale, and everything was fine. Then I had the good ol 1214 code pop up more than usual. Normal is it pops up maybe every 7th/8th time I start the car. I just cleared the code and keep going. Got home and went to go somewhere else and upon cranking the car it was idling rough, and at half the normal RPM. Not sure if this is limp mode or not. And it threw the 1214 code again. I reset the code, wait a few minutes, and it cranks normal again and everything seems fine. I drive it maybe 10 miles and, at a red light, it does the same thing again where it idles at half the normal rpm and I can barely get it to move. I also got the "remove key, wait 10 seconds" message. From this point on it never idled correctly when I could get it running, and I had just enough power to get into a parking spot right off the street. After this, I could not get the car to start again. It turns over fine, but doesn't seem to be getting any fuel, so I'm pretty sure it's not a battery issue. And at this point, it was throwing the 1214 code nearly every time I tried to start it. I would reset it, try again, same result. No other codes were ever thrown. Ultimately had to get it towed home. I disconnected and reconnected the battery, same problem.

Fast forward to today, car still won't start. I'm sending the ECBM to absfixer.com to be fixed (since it needed that anyway), but I just spoke to the guy from that website and he said the ECBM should not be preventing the car from starting. Only other issue I've had with the car is the fuel gauge dropping to zero and that has gotten much better after 6 or 7 tanks with Techron. Any direction you guys can give me to figure out what going on or what I should check would be appreciated.

 

Sometimes serial data bus issues will cause the fuel gauge to read "E" and some other things...if the EBCM loses power or ground that power or ground will back feed onto the data wire...with a DVOM access the DLC (where a scan tool hooks to) and see if you see either ground or 12 volts at pin 2...a good reading will be .3 to .4 volts that flucuates with the key ON...it is actually a 0-7 volt signal (square wave) which you won't see 7 volts on a DVOM...you will see this with a scope.

 

Preciate it. Something that just crossed my mind, I may just be out of gas. I was getting low and I had to reset the code, so it likely wasn't reading properly.

 

If you have fuel in the tank and it doesn't start or starts and stalls look at pin 2.

 

Yep, out of gas. In my defense, the gauge showed just under 1/4 of a tank and the MTE still showed 99 miles.

 

You have apparently solved the problem, but I thought I would mention that it is possible for the jet pump that transfers gas from right tank to left tank to plug up and you run out of gas with plenty trapped in right tank. You do get a CEL, code, and fuel gauge going to zero, but this can be mistaken for other level transmitter problems.