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I think I know the answer however wanted the opinion of those better in the know than I. Last week I got a faint whiff of coolant after a decently long drive, just a small whiff with no sign of leakage. Today after removing the steam tubes to replace the valley pan gasket I noticed the rear passenger mount where the tube meets the mount block has some rust and discoloration around it not present on the other 3. Looks like it is leaking to me, what do ya'll think?
I think I know the answer however wanted the opinion of those better in the know than I. Last week I got a faint whiff of coolant after a decently long drive, just a small whiff with no sign of leakage. Today after removing the steam tubes to replace the valley pan gasket I noticed the rear passenger mount where the tube meets the mount block has some rust and discoloration around it not present on the other 3. Looks like it is leaking to me, what do ya'll think?
Yep, C5's are aging...Time to swap out that steam tube with a serviceable tube assembly. on a side note, after replacing the steam tube and before installing the intake, slave in the throttle body steam hoses and pressure check the coolant system to make sure it holds pressure and make sure there are no leaks before installing the intake.
you can rent a pressure tester from most auto parts stores.
After looking at the mind boggling number of steam kits available I need to inquire here, what are the people here using? If someone can point me to a good set I would appreciate it. I do want to run them external (not under the manifold). I have no problem piecing together AN lines to do it but if I can get a kit with all the parts that would be preferable. Thanks!
After looking at the mind boggling number of steam kits available I need to inquire here, what are the people here using? If someone can point me to a good set I would appreciate it. I do want to run them external (not under the manifold). I have no problem piecing together AN lines to do it but if I can get a kit with all the parts that would be preferable. Thanks!
If you can't find an aftermarket steam tube kit, for you 2000 Corvette, looks like the General still has the steam tube available. 2000 Steam Tube Assy
I don't like AN fittings because they are adding potential leaking points. I prefer the OEM crossover without all the extra hardware and possible leaking spots.
It isn't hard to change if necessary. Clean everything use new O-rings and keep a spare crossover if you are worried about the future.
It is my understanding a LS6 intake will not fit with the LS1 crossover tubes, is this correct? I have no problem with AN fittings, I have used them extensively on my drag bikes and other vehicles. They are costly but reliable as an anvil using quality parts and proper hose assembly. I will in the future update the intake, if the stock steam lines work I will use those for sure. If not due to clearance issues I will make up AN lines now.
It is my understanding a LS6 intake will not fit with the LS1 crossover tubes, is this correct? I have no problem with AN fittings, I have used them extensively on my drag bikes and other vehicles. They are costly but reliable as an anvil using quality parts and proper hose assembly. I will in the future update the intake, if the stock steam lines work I will use those for sure. If not due to clearance issues I will make up AN lines now.
just depend on the yrs the parts are from. seen to be a little different pre yr
There is some talk of the LS6 intake exploding under boost pressure without those reinforcement, that people removed for the crossover.
It is the main reason I stay with LS1 intake on turbo engine, the 4-port OEM steam crossover is worth the downgrade to maintain simplicity.
Similarly I prefer dead head fuel rail @ 600rwhp as opposed to a bunch of fancy AN lines and additional rail ports and fittings.... KISS
Daily driver without ever opening the hood or worrying about something coming loose or leaking... by minimizing the potential for leaks it can dramatically improve reliability in the long run.
There was a discussion on this forum a long time ago about the ribs on the underside of the intake, and some people "in the know" about the production of these intakes said the ribs where for assembly line reasons only and had absolutely no structure bearing on the intake itself.
This is why I did it.
I understand the KISS thought, however quality AN fittings have been proven time and time again to be the most reliable way to transfer fluids. All professional and most amatuer sanctioning bodies for racing require them, my few years working the flightline in the Air Force using them sold their use to me long ago. One will not find any modern aircraft using anything else. Good enough for an F-16, good enough for me.
I understand the KISS thought, however quality AN fittings have been proven time and time again to be the most reliable way to transfer fluids. All professional and most amatuer sanctioning bodies for racing require them, my few years working the flightline in the Air Force using them sold their use to me long ago. One will not find any modern aircraft using anything else. Good enough for an F-16, good enough for me.
Sure, if you actually buy quality AN fittings. The problem is most of the AN fittings sold on ebay and with common parts are not actually quality fittings. And neither is the hose. A quality AN fitting is like $40 each. The fittings you get with that $100 fuel rail or whatever are $4 each. I've also noticed half of them have O-rings and half don't for some reason. There is a large variability in the quality of random fittings these days. That is a risk I am not taking. Buy your fittings directly from Aeroquip if you actually want realistic risk categorical.
I agree, why I said "quality parts and proper hose assembly". I use Earl's though Aeroquip and XRP also make quality stuff, the rest are junk IMO. I have plumbed numerous cars, off road vehicles, boats and motorcycles since the early 80's using all three of the mentioned brands with zero issues.
I agree, why I said "quality parts and proper hose assembly". I use Earl's though Aeroquip and XRP also make quality stuff, the rest are junk IMO. I have plumbed numerous cars, off road vehicles, boats and motorcycles since the early 80's using all three of the mentioned brands with zero issues.
Well not everybody gets that. And even if you do get it- I can't spend $500 in hose and fittings when a $50 OEM piece can fit the bill? Kinda... strange to 'upgrade' something that gains nothing... no real benefit. Not exactly the definition of an upgrade. And adds a ton of potential fitments and leak points. And is somewhat more complex in design... we go from 1 piece to 4 or 6 individual pieces. That is a downgrade my friend.
There is something to braided hose. But it wears stuff out when it rubs here or there. It really needs a protective coatings... like a wire loom or something. And hose separators. It could be done real pretty and proper. Time spent. Artist stuff. I am not against it. I am only against the idea of complexity and potential risk points being added for no benefit. But if you understand the risk... you seem to... then it can be done right... and its good.
You can use two front steam tubes. Put one on the rear, run a good hose along the lower side of the pass valve cover and put a “T” in just ahead of the radiator connection.
I did that ten years ago.
You can’t fit any coolant lines under a FAST intake.
It’s cool you can still buy the orig 4 corner part. I’ve seen used ones on eBay for $100.
All this said, GM abandoned the 4 corner part around 05? They simply blocked the rears.
You can use two front steam tubes. Put one on the rear, run a good hose along the lower side of the pass valve cover and put a “T” in just ahead of the radiator connection.
I did that ten years ago.
You can’t fit any coolant lines under a FAST intake.
It’s cool you can still buy the orig 4 corner part. I’ve seen used ones on eBay for $100.
All this said, GM abandoned the 4 corner part around 05? They simply blocked the rears.
Ron
I found a stock one on ebay taken off a crate engine 20 yrs ago, like new. Cost $100.
I would replace that crusty steam vent crossover. On a street car leaving the rears blocked off should be fine, many have tracked the stock setup.
It would be more ideal to unblock the rears. Bill Curley ran the front on the rear which I also completed. Some have also run a truck/suv front on the back.
I don't trust blocking the rears on a performance engine or level install. These engines need all the help they can get, ridding themselves of air bubbles and flowing cooling towards the radiator. The steam crossover should inject to the upper radiator tank or hose where it can go through the radiator down cooling like all the other coolant leaving the engine.
I ended up getting a "new" old original set said to have come off a crate engine years ago. They look like new and passed the pressure test I applied yesterday, should be back together tonight.
Steam tube leak..
