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While I have the rear diff out to do work on the Torque tube ,clutch and suspension I figured I'd upgrade the diff. I'm looking for the C6 left hand (long)output shaft, I'm not looking for the $300+ Heavy Duty 300m hardened ones. Just a stock C6 one that used to sell for around $50-$60 new and now should be about $100-$130 new.
Anyone know where to buy one?
ROCKAUTO only has the RH smaller shaft for $57.79 and the RH gear for $77.79 not bad prices but I'm only putting 400 to the wheels I don't think I need to change that one the left one is the weaker one.
I just Googled the p/n when I was looking for one a couple years ago. Their shopping feature is pretty decent at shopping best prices. Just remember, now that you're upgrading the easy-and-cheap-to-replace weak link, the next weakest link becomes something less easy and more expensive haha. Hindsight being 20/20, I might have reconsidered upgrading the shaft on mine if I had thought a little more about it first. No issues so far though, knock on wood.
I just Googled the p/n when I was looking for one a couple years ago. Their shopping feature is pretty decent at shopping best prices. Just remember, now that you're upgrading the easy-and-cheap-to-replace weak link, the next weakest link becomes something less easy and more expensive haha. Hindsight being 20/20, I might have reconsidered upgrading the shaft on mine if I had thought a little more about it first. No issues so far though, knock on wood.
I'm only putting 400 to the wheels, I have autox and hillclimbed this car for 12 years on A7's with out any problem. But then again this year I sheared off the 10mm bolts that mount the torque tube drive shaft to the input shaft, that was the weak link. Now that I upgraded the Torque Tube to the "newer" 12mm version and replaced the rubber bushing with billet ones I'm thinking the diff long output shaft is the new weak link.
I'm only putting 400 to the wheels, I have autox and hillclimbed this car for 12 years on A7's with out any problem. But then again this year I sheared off the 10mm bolts that mount the torque tube drive shaft to the input shaft, that was the weak link. Now that I upgraded the Torque Tube to the "newer" 12mm version and replaced the rubber bushing with billet ones I'm thinking the diff long output shaft is the new weak link.
That's awesome! I like hearing from people that have had good success without spending thousands on upgrades just because everyone says/assumes you need to. Sounds like you should be pretty squared away now.
Do you plan on doing the work on your differential yourself? If so that is one job I have not tried to tackle myself. If so, I applaud your efforts. I usually leave the transmissions and differentials to the reputable shop with the right tools and experience. Plus if something is not perfect, I have someone to go back or to have it looked at or redone. Mine is currently making +400 wHP and +390 ft-lbs. I am running a factory LS7 clutch and a 12mm bolt torque tube with the factory stock MN6 and 1-rib case differential. But no sticky autocross rubber! My plans call for a 3-rib case with; HD preload springs, C6 Z06 left and right shafts (there are stronger options such as the C6 ZR1 or aftermarket 300M or 500M shafts), C6 Z06 pinion support, staying with stock 27 spline input and most likely a Wavetrac, along with an external fluid cooler setup. That kind of unit, ready to install from a top notch shop like RKT or RPM will set you back +$3K. So buying the parts and having the tools, plus the know how to do the job yourself can save you big $$
[QUOTE=heggsc5;1605992423]That's awesome! I like hearing from people that have had good success without spending thousands on upgrades just because everyone says/assumes you need to. Sounds like you should be pretty squared away now.[/QUOTE
Do you plan on doing the work on your differential yourself? If so that is one job I have not tried to tackle myself. If so, I applaud your efforts. I usually leave the transmissions and differentials to the reputable shop with the right tools and experience. Plus if something is not perfect, I have someone to go back or to have it looked at or redone. Mine is currently making +400 wHP and +390 ft-lbs. I am running a factory LS7 clutch and a 12mm bolt torque tube with the factory stock MN6 and 1-rib case differential. But no sticky autocross rubber! My plans call for a 3-rib case with; HD preload springs, C6 Z06 left and right shafts (there are stronger options such as the C6 ZR1 or aftermarket 300M or 500M shafts), C6 Z06 pinion support, staying with stock 27 spline input and most likely a Wavetrac, along with an external fluid cooler setup. That kind of unit, ready to install from a top notch shop like RKT or RPM will set you back +$3K. So buying the parts and having the tools, plus the know how to do the job yourself can save you big $$
Yes I am doing it myself, I went thru this diff (3-rib) 6 years ago I did swap in the C6 clutches and C6 springs at that time but did not do the shafts. Since I have the diff, trans, torque tube, clutch, front & rear suspension out I thought I would check out how the diff was holding up. Every thing looks great but I want to swap out at least the long shaft since it apart. The diff is fairly easy to work on as long as you not messing with any of the parts that require the clearances to be checked.
I'm also replacing my clutch/flywheel(Monster s)with new one's as well as all the clutch hydraulics. Going to Delrin a-arm bushings installing new ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar end links. Rebuilt the torque tube with billet bushing and new bearings. rebuilt the shift linkage that runs from the trans to the shifter to eliminate the slop. I had rick at RKT rebuild my m12 trans a few months ago and I have my m6 trans sitting on my work bench in pieces I'm going to rebuild that one my self.
All this added together is going to cost $1000's and $1000's. So if I can get away with spending around $100ish on a C6 left hand non heavy duty but "stronger than the C5" output shaft instead of $300+ for the heavy duty ones I will.
Yes I am doing it myself, I went thru this diff (3-rib) 6 years ago I did swap in the C6 clutches and C6 springs at that time but did not do the shafts. Since I have the diff, trans, torque tube, clutch, front & rear suspension out I thought I would check out how the diff was holding up. Every thing looks great but I want to swap out at least the long shaft since it apart. The diff is fairly easy to work on as long as you not messing with any of the parts that require the clearances to be checked.
I'm also replacing my clutch/flywheel(Monster s)with new one's as well as all the clutch hydraulics. Going to Delrin a-arm bushings installing new ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar end links. Rebuilt the torque tube with billet bushing and new bearings. rebuilt the shift linkage that runs from the trans to the shifter to eliminate the slop. I had rick at RKT rebuild my m12 trans a few months ago and I have my m6 trans sitting on my work bench in pieces I'm going to rebuild that one my self.
All this added together is going to cost $1000's and $1000's. So if I can get away with spending around $100ish on a C6 left hand non heavy duty but "stronger than the C5" output shaft instead of $300+ for the heavy duty ones I will.
That is so cool that you do all that work yourself. Back in 2020 I had to replace the clutch hydraulics due to a leak. So I also did all the suspension bushings (polyurethane), redid the brakes and shocks and a few other jobs. I thought about doing the differential while it was out, but time and funds did not allow for that. I did check the break away torque and it seems to still be fine - knocking on wood as I type that.