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I've done the relocation kit. Unfortunately I bought the Amazon kit with no mounting provision. Has anyone figured out a slick way to mount the thing somewhere? I know some just use zip ties, but I'd like something more secure.
I know, should've sprung for the more expensive kit that came with mount...
I had the same dilemma, and I also added a gauge to mine. You are limited to a certain length because of the harness too.
I ended up doing the zip tie, If i was to do it again, I would have spent the $250.00 and purchased the kit with the U fitting and the mount.
Guys who buy this stuff, realize you may have a friend in metal scrap yards, or local machine shops. You'd be amazed at the good stuff that ends up in the dumpsters!! Key is to catch it BEFORE the dumpster. Most Corvette guys can get pretty creative. There's a lot of angle aluminum, stainless steel, and even angle iron, out there waiting to be used for car stuff. Shops don't bite. Try to think what you may need beforehand. Then go with a smile, and ask nicely for a piece of scrap. Maybe a 1/2" wide, 1/8" thick piece of aluminum, maybe 3"-5" long, or drill a hole thru one end that maybe an intake bolt will go thru. Most shops will be happy to help. Especially at Christmas. Just get creative.......
Last edited by grinder11; Dec 17, 2022 at 11:37 AM.
Guys who buy this stuff have a friend in metal scrap yards, or local machine shops. You'd be amazed at the good stuff that ends up in the dumpsters!! Key is to catch it BEFORE the dumpster. Most Corvette guys can get pretty creative. There's a lot of angle aluminum, stainless steel, and even angle iron, out there waiting to be used for car stuff. Shops don't bite. Try to think what you may need beforehand. Then go with a smile, and ask nicely for a piece of scrap. Use a 1/2" wide, 1/8" thick piece of aluminum, maybe 3"-5" long. Drill a hole thru one that maybe an intake bolt will go thru. Most shops will be happy to help. Especially at Christmas. Just get creative.......
I worked for a large corporation, for most of my adult life. We were pretty much a "self contained" operation, therefore we had in-house machinists, tool makers, electricians and plumbers, as well as a stocking system that had raw materials on hand, and lathes, mills, etc, that we also had access to. When areas were being refurbished, and old material being discarded, it was "fair game", if you were on good terms with the people who were in charge, and could write a removal pass for you.
Losing this "resource" was the one downfall of retiring................
I worked for a large corporation, for most of my adult life. We were pretty much a "self contained" operation, therefore we had in-house machinists, tool makers, electricians and plumbers, as well as a stocking system that had raw materials on hand, and lathes, mills, etc, that we also had access to. When areas were being refurbished, and old material being discarded, it was "fair game", if you were on good terms with the people who were in charge, and could write a removal pass for you.
Losing this "resource" was the one downfall of retiring................
EXACTLY what I meant!! I was an in-house Tool&Die guy for over 40 years. It wasnt a GM plant, but it was no small operation, either. Im fortunate that I still know some of the few remaining in-house guys, and can have them, uh, liberate a piece here and there, lol.....
I zip tied mine to the PCV valve but later used the stud right below it with a neoprene jacketed clamp. I also swapped to the brass sensor because it's supposed to be better and it's NPT and I didn't like the shallow depth of the metric adapter.
I bought the pieces/parts from Summit (angled fitting not straight to help clear the added rear steam tube cross over) along with an extension harness from Michigan Motorsports. I installed it this past Spring when I had the intake manifold off the engine. IIRC, I think I used an Adel clamp to a bolt on the coil mounting bracket (?) to secure the setup next to the valve cover. I just checked my pictures and I have no photos showing the details.
Last edited by JHrinsin; Dec 17, 2022 at 11:33 PM.
I zip tied mine at the rear under the fuel rail cover on my 99. Never an issue in a decade.
For the 03 I'll have to get more creative since I won't be running fuel rail covers. I might make my own braided line length shorter than most to put it somewhere out of the way to the rear while still accessible.
For those with the concern, the harness can easily be extended if you need to. Butt splices without the plastic case from the box stores is the way to go. Crimp it with two layers of good self gluing heat shrink and add a bit of the vinyl corrugated heat shield and it looks factory and no one will know.
I zip tied mine at the rear under the fuel rail cover on my 99. Never an issue in a decade.
For the 03 I'll have to get more creative since I won't be running fuel rail covers. I might make my own braided line length shorter than most to put it somewhere out of the way to the rear while still accessible.
For those with the concern, the harness can easily be extended if you need to. Butt splices without the plastic case from the box stores is the way to go. Crimp it with two layers of good self gluing heat shrink and add a bit of the vinyl corrugated heat shield and it looks factory and no one will know.
I'm not a fan of butt splices. Any I have ever done all start failing eventually. Havent used them in over 30 years. I solder everything, covered with liquid electrical tape, then shrink tubing.....
I have done a lot of automotive wiring harness work it in the last +37 years. When I was younger, I would round up all the correct wiring (gauge, jacketing material and thickness,as well as colors) connectors and terminals (and/or butt splices, soldering iron, coverings, etc...) and build it myself. But now when planning the job, since i can simply buy a correctly made plug and play extension harness (for $20-30) to relocate something like a sensor, it's so simple and well worth it in terms of saving my time and effort. That is especially true when swapping to say a different throttle body or MAF. Now for something completely unique, that is another matter.
I'm not a fan of butt splices. Any I have ever done all start failing eventually. Havent used them in over 30 years. I solder everything, covered with liquid electrical tape, then shrink tubing.....
Then I really hope I'm not going to be learning some lessons on the Z06 because everything has been done this way so far. The connections are strong enough I could jump on the lines and they won't let go. I've got a handy stripper that makes custom uniform ends to maximize each connection. Though I should make a revision. Much of the car is butt spliced so far. Line ends, however, have all been DT and DTM crimped.
I bought a relocation kit many years back but never got around to installing it. I got pretty good at doing the swap without removing the intake. With the right tools it can be done in 20 minutes. Then Chris from ECS recommended not installing the relocation kit "we don't like them because they create two places for a leak vs. just the one".
None the less, for the OP looking for mounting ideas this was the route I was going to explore. $8 on Amazon. Fuel rail and braided hose are just about .50 inches if memory serves. So AN6 is what I was thinking.
How to Mount Relocated Oil Pressure Sensor
