Looking for a rear brake line
Pro
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 201
From: Montgomery City, MO
You might give some details as to which line it is - hard to tell from the picture unless one knows all versions of the car inside and out.
I.E. what year? Rear lines on the 2000 and up cars go from the (front mounted) BPMV through the tunnel and are at least two pieces if not three - there are couplers visible in the rear of my 2001. Older models with rear mounted EBCM / BPMV are completely different. All critically important.
You gotta love calcium chloride and what it does for ferrous metals. Mine began life in New Hampshire and Vermont and I'm sure that contributed to how "furry" the ground splice packs look.
I.E. what year? Rear lines on the 2000 and up cars go from the (front mounted) BPMV through the tunnel and are at least two pieces if not three - there are couplers visible in the rear of my 2001. Older models with rear mounted EBCM / BPMV are completely different. All critically important.
You gotta love calcium chloride and what it does for ferrous metals. Mine began life in New Hampshire and Vermont and I'm sure that contributed to how "furry" the ground splice packs look.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
You might give some details as to which line it is - hard to tell from the picture unless one knows all versions of the car inside and out.
I.E. what year? Rear lines on the 2000 and up cars go from the (front mounted) BPMV through the tunnel and are at least two pieces if not three - there are couplers visible in the rear of my 2001. Older models with rear mounted EBCM / BPMV are completely different. All critically important.
You gotta love calcium chloride and what it does for ferrous metals. Mine began life in New Hampshire and Vermont and I'm sure that contributed to how "furry" the ground splice packs look.
I.E. what year? Rear lines on the 2000 and up cars go from the (front mounted) BPMV through the tunnel and are at least two pieces if not three - there are couplers visible in the rear of my 2001. Older models with rear mounted EBCM / BPMV are completely different. All critically important.
You gotta love calcium chloride and what it does for ferrous metals. Mine began life in New Hampshire and Vermont and I'm sure that contributed to how "furry" the ground splice packs look.
this is the line I’m looking for, it’s a 2002 with active handling
Pro
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 201
From: Montgomery City, MO
So that's the passenger side before it starts heading upward to the soft line coupler?
Those hard line couplers between sections E and D looked pretty rusty on mine, and I think they screw together so you might have to do some bending on the forward pipes to get them apart / back together without dropping the entire drivetrain. Probably not a good idea with old, rusty hard lines. Might want to consider cutting the descending part of section E (assuming you can find a rust-free spot), flaring and putting a union there.
Those hard line couplers between sections E and D looked pretty rusty on mine, and I think they screw together so you might have to do some bending on the forward pipes to get them apart / back together without dropping the entire drivetrain. Probably not a good idea with old, rusty hard lines. Might want to consider cutting the descending part of section E (assuming you can find a rust-free spot), flaring and putting a union there.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
So that's the passenger side before it starts heading upward to the soft line coupler?
Those hard line couplers between sections E and D looked pretty rusty on mine, and I think they screw together so you might have to do some bending on the forward pipes to get them apart / back together without dropping the entire drivetrain. Probably not a good idea with old, rusty hard lines. Might want to consider cutting the descending part of section E (assuming you can find a rust-free spot), flaring and putting a union there.
Those hard line couplers between sections E and D looked pretty rusty on mine, and I think they screw together so you might have to do some bending on the forward pipes to get them apart / back together without dropping the entire drivetrain. Probably not a good idea with old, rusty hard lines. Might want to consider cutting the descending part of section E (assuming you can find a rust-free spot), flaring and putting a union there.
there is definetly not enough to flare a line with a union. The lines that it connect too arent really rusted and looked replaced at one point so they are newer. I was really hoping I could find just that line that I need. Its the driver side line in the diagram. Been looking all over and cant seem to find one.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,347
Likes: 857
From: MI
Cruise-In VI Veteran
there is definetly not enough to flare a line with a union. The lines that it connect too arent really rusted and looked replaced at one point so they are newer. I was really hoping I could find just that line that I need. Its the driver side line in the diagram. Been looking all over and cant seem to find one.
Cheers,
Goose
Pro
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 201
From: Montgomery City, MO
Good luck, post back if you find something elsewhere as I'm interested in how it plays out.
I just repaired both rear lines on my 2001 with a union after the steering column coupler bolt had it's way with them. Was afraid I'd have to drop the exhaust but managed to cut, flare and union to new line what was coming out of the tunnel successfully. Those forward pieces of the rear pipes must be 6-7 feet long. The rear ones seem to be somewhat bulky in their own right considering today's shipping by "dimensional weight".
I just repaired both rear lines on my 2001 with a union after the steering column coupler bolt had it's way with them. Was afraid I'd have to drop the exhaust but managed to cut, flare and union to new line what was coming out of the tunnel successfully. Those forward pieces of the rear pipes must be 6-7 feet long. The rear ones seem to be somewhat bulky in their own right considering today's shipping by "dimensional weight".
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
Good luck, post back if you find something elsewhere as I'm interested in how it plays out.
I just repaired both rear lines on my 2001 with a union after the steering column coupler bolt had it's way with them. Was afraid I'd have to drop the exhaust but managed to cut, flare and union to new line what was coming out of the tunnel successfully. Those forward pieces of the rear pipes must be 6-7 feet long. The rear ones seem to be somewhat bulky in their own right considering today's shipping by "dimensional weight".
I just repaired both rear lines on my 2001 with a union after the steering column coupler bolt had it's way with them. Was afraid I'd have to drop the exhaust but managed to cut, flare and union to new line what was coming out of the tunnel successfully. Those forward pieces of the rear pipes must be 6-7 feet long. The rear ones seem to be somewhat bulky in their own right considering today's shipping by "dimensional weight".
I removed both rear aftermarket mufflers and was able to get the LH side out very easily, just used some power lube and line wrenches too get it off. The one I got out broke in half when I took a picture of it so I am going to take out the other one and replace that one as well. going to get line and flare/bend it too shape and see if that fixes it.